Fall / Winter 2019 - 2020 Fashion Trend: Updating Simplicity 8529

This season, one of the hottest fashion trends to hit the runways has been feathers. I've gotta tell ya, a gal can have some fun with this one.  Now that I'm older and wear comfortable shoes, I don't tend to follow the trends as closely as I used to but this one just makes me giddy with happiness. It also makes me think how I can work this into my plain old prairie gal lifestyle without ruffling too many feathers (sorry, couldn't resist).  

2019 - 2020 Fall / Winter Collection
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Okay, maybe not this much fun. Like I mentioned, I do live in the prairies and winter is coming. 

Valentino 2019 - 2020 Fall / Winter
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Even the Valentino feather covered coat might be a bit much for this part of the world. But I digress. I'm supposed to be having some fun with this one. And I do have some feather trim in my stash. I kid you not. It's a Toronto find which would mean that it has been in my stash for decades.  

Let's see, I made this sweater, Simplicity 8529, a couple of seasons ago and since then it has shrunk and it still fits. But it could use some attention. Feathers might just do the trick to bring it back to the forefront of my wardrobe choices.

Front view

I was being conservative with this one and just added it to the hem. I first thought to attach it to the inside of the hemline with snaps so that it could easily be removed. I nixed that thought and went with hand stitching it in place with some silk thread.  

Back view

Nothing as elaborate as the designer looks but I'm okay with that and feeling a little bit trendy.  

The Stats

Previously sewn:  Simplicity 8529 made in November 2017

Feather trim:  1.10 metres

Thread:  100% silk

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Hand-sewing needles, scissors.  

Happy Sewing!

Winter Staple: Vogue 8939

I've made a few turtleneck dresses over the years but would you believe none of them are currently part of my wardrobe. I'm making this one out of a polyester cable motif knit. I know! I said I was staying away from polyester, but this fabric was in the stash before I made that declaration. I'm just trying to use up what's in the fabric stash.

I do love the colour and the cable knit design on this fabric. Hopefully, it will hold up and not pill or become a static magnetic like the others. We'll see how it holds up as being an autumn staple. Right now I'm pleased with a long sleeve dress that should keep me warm as the temperatures cool.

Hope to one day make this in a wool or dare I dream, a cashmere knit. Emma One Sock currently has some wool double knit in stock. I need to use what is in my stash though.

The pattern is Vogue 8939, currently out-of-print. In the past, I lengthened the pattern ten inches but this time, I was limited by my fabric length and only had enough to lengthen it by six inches. It's the perfect length! The sleeves of course were shortened. I will admit that the project as a whole is not perfect. I find that I need some muscle to pull this dress over I head when putting it on and taking it off because for some reason the neck is quite snug. I don't recall this being an issue with the others.

The Stats

Fabric:  2.1 metres quilted cable matelassé knit

Needle:  Ball point

Interfacing:  0.5 metres Knit-N-Stable tape

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8939

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, screwdriver, walking foot, sewing machine, serger, threads, clapper, tailor's chalk, and tea.

Happy Sewing!

Book Review

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My Journey:  Donna Karan

Author(s):  Donna Karan with Kathleen Boyes

ISBN:  978-1-101-88349-5

Publisher:  Ballantine Books, 2015

Canadian price:  $39.00 (Hardcopy)

My Journey has been on my want-to-read list for quite some time. But since it's release several years ago I just haven't made the time to sit down and read it. It just happened to be one of the books that the local library was selling from their collection at a deep discount. It seemed like my last chance to finally read it. The crisp pages and binding that appeared to have never been cracked open made me wonder if it had ever been signed out. It sparked a feeling of sadness bringing me back to when I learned that Vogue Patterns would no longer be carrying Donna Karan and DKNY patterns.

My desire to read this book is attributed to the fact that I've been a huge fan of Donna Karan's designs and have, over the years, sewn many of her Vogue designer patterns.

Out-of-print Vogue 2092, circa 1988. 

This was one of the first Donna Karan patterns that entered my collection.

I wanted so much to enjoy this book as much as I have enjoyed sewing her designs over the years.

OOP Vogue 1262, circa 2011.  Another favourite Donna Karan design.

The book didn't capture the joy that the designs brought to my sewing table. Sure, there were parts that I found interesting and things I learned about Karan's career that I was previously unaware of. I enjoyed reading about Karan's time at Anne Klein in the nineteen seventies and the menswear line and dressing a president. And the concept of seven easy pieces! But there was an underlining sadness that never seemed to escape from it's pages.  

What I didn't enjoy is how the book begins with the dark chapter Born into Fashion. Honestly, if I weren't a fan of her creative work, the start of this book would have been enough of a turn-off to abandon what laid ahead in the pages that follow. Despite the constant celebrity name-dropping peppered throughout the pages (I wasn't impressed), it is a story about a resilient woman who has overcome a great deal in her life. In that, it is a wonderful book. As far as being a reader who enjoyed sewing her designs, it didn't deliver any new inspiration or desire to revisit some of those old Donna Karan patterns. Maybe one day.

OOP Vogue 1175, still to be made one day.

Happy Sewing!  

 

Third Time's the Charm: Vogue 1642 Wool Pants

Vogue 1642 is one of the fabulous patterns released from the Vogue Fall 2019 line. It is the forth time I visited this pattern, the third time for the pants.

The first pair of pants that I made with Vogue 1642 were quite comfortable and I knew I wanted to revisit this pattern.  The next pair there were some miscalculations. These pants are just right! I shortened the length two inches from the second pair and then another 1/2" on the left leg to adjust for a scoliosis consequence.  The crotch length were adjusted to be the same height as on the size 14 and I cut the side seams half way between the L and XL sizing. I like the looser fit so that the fact that one hip is high than the other is not as noticeable.

I can't stress enough how comfortable these pants are and how thrilled I am that the waistline actually sits at the waist. Bonus that there are side pockets!  

The fabric is a British wool suiting fabric that has been in the stash for far too long. It was previously pretreated so that was one step I didn't have to worry about. To get the best pressed seams, I found the clapper and lots of steam came in handy. I can throw these in the washing machine without worrying if they shrink since if they do they will likely still fit.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2.1 metres 

Interfacing:  0.7 metres fusible

Elastic:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 1642

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Pins, pin cushion, cutting table, iron, ironing board, tailor's chalk, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, threads, sewing machine, scissors, thread clippers, serger, measuring tape, measuring gauge, walking foot, screwdriver, chai tea latte.  

Happy Sewing!

Is it Getting Too Expensive to Sew?

Or are the folks that are doing the pricing at Fabricland insane?

So, I have an Assembly Line pattern that I don't want to cut into. I would like to preserve this pattern and trace out the pattern pieces. I just needed to pick up some more tracing paper. In the past, I've always used Burda brand paper for these tasks just because of the generous sheet size that I wouldn't have to tape together. Plus, I like having the grid lines.  

I think I almost fainted when I saw the price:  $20.99 (Cdn + 13% taxes) for the plain sheets and $24.99 (Cdn + 13% taxes) for the grid sheets. I only walked the plain sheet package over to the cash desk because the store had all these 50% off for "National Sewing Month" only to be told that this item was excluded from the sale.  

I mentioned that the last time I purchased this item it was eight dollars and the person at the cash desk tried to tell me that I was mistaken and that it's never been that low.  She said the price went up from $16.00.  That just annoyed me and I left the item there. Besides, I wasn't willing to pay $16.79 (Cdn + taxes, the price it would have been with the 20% Fabricland membership discount) for tissue paper.  

Of course, I had to check my last package out and yes, it was eight dollars. That's almost a 300% mark-up from the last time I purchased a package. And double what I can pick up on Amazon.ca. Instead, I stopped off at the Dollar Store and picked up a couple of packages of tissue paper for $1.25 (Cdn + taxes).  I think I can live without the grid lines knowing that I didn't support a mark-up I honestly can not justify. 

How about you, have you noticed price increases at the fabric store lately?  Don't even get me started on buttons! LOL.  And what cost saving measures do you take in your sewing?  

Happy Sewing!  

Pullover Top: Vogue 1642

To be completely honest, I would have never in a million years consider sewing this pullover top in a floral print until Carlos posted a picture of one on Instagram last week. I was all smitten over the thought of choosing a print that wasn't even on my radar for Vogue 1642.  

Now if you're thinking that I might look like Mort from Bazooka Joe comics, you might be right.

The neckline is huge on my petite frame. Or perhaps it's my short neck? I could have easily have shortened the height of the collar. If you're considering this pattern and you have a petite frame maybe construct the collar and give it a test ride before you commit.

I will be wearing it with a turtleneck sweater or a tank top underneath for sure.  This is quite roomy and if I weren't wearing anything underneath, well I could be exposing more than I intended. Because of the loose-fit, I would consider this as outerwear rather than a top. This would be perfect as an outwear piece for skiing, or other winter activities where layering is key. The sleeves are quite generous as well making it perfect for layering.

I adore the pleated pockets and will for sure be borrowing the pattern for other projects. But I'm not sure that I will be revisiting this pattern. One is enough, I'll be packing this away until spring.

The fabric has been in the stash for a few years. It's a medium weight 100% cotton that I found in the home décor department. It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine, dryer and steam pressed. I couldn't find a 12" (30 cm) zipper in the stores if my life depended on it so I just went with a 14" zipper found in my stash and just cut it to the required length.

The Stats

Fabric:  2.3 metres

Interfacing:  0.7 metres of fusible interfacing

Lining:  0.5 metres

Basting Tape:   24" two-sided tape

D-Ring:  1 

Grosgrain Ribbon:  0.10 metre

Zipper:  14" regular 

Pattern:  Vogue 1642, Fall 2019 collection

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushions, scissors, tailor's chalk, ruler, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, walking foot, zipper foot, screwdriver, thread clippers, serger, threads, clapper, and tea.

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

Today is the World Day of Prayer for the Care of Creation ahead of the United Nations Climate Action Summit this month in New York. This is a follow-up to the 2016 Paris Agreement. It is also a time for myself personally to reflect on my own lifestyle choices including sewing. I try to make thoughtful decisions in the projects I make. It hasn't always been the case. 

I'm certainly a work in progress. There has been a historic trail of polyester and rayon in my past sewing projects. I'm trying to change my ways, become more thoughtful of the materials that I use and recycle in order to care for creation.  

There is a line at the end of Al Gore's An Inconvenient Sequel, "if our leaders refuse to lead, citizens of the world will."

Today is also the start of #sewyourselfsustainable by New Craft House which I hope will be an insightful look at what I've been doing and how I can improve.  

Today is the start of #seweverydayseptember another Instagram look into the lives of people who sew. And of course, 

Today marks the beginning of National Sewing Month in the United States. This year's theme is sewing is your path to self-expression.  

There is a lot of ways to celebrate, think and express ourselves through our sewing this month. Will you be joining in?  

Happy Sewing!