February in Review...

 Sewing Projects

There was a bit of gift and selfish sewing this month.  I finally finished the patchwork pajama bottoms that have been months in the making.  And the sewing plans for the month changed when a vintage DVF wrap dress pattern, Vogue 1610, came into my sewing world.  Despite all this sewing for moi, I did manage to sew for others as well.  I finally managed to get the button placement right on Simplicity 6851, it's only the third try.  

And there was another pair of men's elastic waist pants that hit the sewing table.  I was experimenting with pocket placements on the front of the pant leg.  

Stash Busting

All of these projects were made with fabrics from the stash with the exception of the wrap dress.  The robe is made with a 100% cotton home décor fabric from Fabricland.  It was picked up last year for another Box Pleat dress from TAL when I spotted it in the discounted section.  Plans change and I'm glad I used it for this project instead.  The wrap dress fabric is a 97% cotton / 3% spandex knit in a medium weight.  I couldn't dream of sewing a more suitable knit with this pattern, it's the perfect match and bonus, it happened to be 50% off!  To be completely honest, I wasn't shopping for fabric for a wrap dress.  I was actually looking for a scissor sharpener when I happened to stumble across their beautiful collection of cotton knits at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics earlier this month.  The pajama bottoms were created with scraps and small pieces that have been collecting over the years.  The pull-on men's pants fabric is an Italian denim that I picked up in 2019 from EmmaOneSock with plans to sew a pair of jeans for moi.  Plans change.  It is an Italian enzyme wash stretch denim (#69037) and it was a dream to sew.   

Destashed this month:  11.2 metres of fabric, 6 buttons, 2 metres of elastic, 2 spools of serger thread, 4 spools of regular thread spools, 0.40 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape.  Of the 11.2 metres of fabric used this month, 4 metres were new to the stash.  My bad.  Only one pattern was added to the stash, the long-sought after vintage Vogue 1610.  

Sewing Plans

Sewing those sock patterns I didn't get around to this month and trying to rescue the denim jacket from the neglected project pile are back on the table.   And maybe another wrap dress or two.  We'll see.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Raglan Sleeve Robe: Vintage Simplicity 6851

Out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 6851 made it back to the cutting table when a request came to see if I could fix the buttons and transfer them to "right side" of the previously made robe.  Actually, on both prior versions of the pattern, I managed to sew the buttons and buttonholes on the wrong side.  Yup, I'm disappointed with those mistakes.  Happy to report, I finally got it right!  

I declined the offer to fix it and offered to make another robe.  It broke my heart when it was brought to my attention that I made that error.  And I really wanted to make it right and start over again.  Now that this one is done, I will go back and fix the other robe.  

But let's talk about this one first.  There was one additional change to this robe.  Another request for a longer sleeve length happened with the second robe but I did not have enough yardage to accommodate that request.  With this fabric, there was ample yardage and the sleeves were lengthened seven inches.  The height of the pockets were raised.  And all hems and facings were top-stitched in place.  

The fabric is a 2021 find from the discounted home décor fabric selection at the local Fabricland store.  It is a 100% cotton and it went through the pre-treatment process before hitting the cutting table.  It was pre-washed in the washing machine, followed by a tumble in the dryer and a steam press.  

The sewing process was smooth and without incident until it came to the buttonholes.  Not for the same reason that occurred with the first two robes.  The automatic buttonholer on the sewing machine was challenged with sewing a nice buttonhole.  On two of the six buttonholes, the seam ripper was used to pull out stitches when the timing was off.  It might be time to take the machine service and have it checked out.  For a moment there, I thought I might have to pull out the vintage Singer sewing machine and sew buttonholes old-school style.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch 

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 6851

Buttons:  6 - 1 inch buttons

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, tailor's chalk, clapper (used as a fabric weight), thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, seam ripper, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, hammer, iron, ironing board, serger, threads, new serger needle, measuring tape, measuring gauge and tea.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

Random Acts of Kindness Day: The Sewing Edition

How will you be celebrating Random Acts of Kindness Day?  Here are some sewing related ideas.  

1. Sew scarves and hats for those staying in homeless shelters.  I prefer using recycled wool sweaters for this sort of project since wool is way warmer against the elements.   
   
   
   
2. Sew scrub caps for health care workers. The link to this pattern was supplied to me from a healthcare nurse.  Appreciated are added buttons to the sides to help hold up their face masks.   
   
   
   
3. Sew knickers for those staying in homeless shelters. We often forget about the undergarments when putting together clothing donations.    
   
   
   
4. Sew stuffed animals for sick children.  
   
   
   
5. Sew snuggle beds to donate to animal shelters.

   

   Photo credit:  source

   
   
6. Share your knowledge and skills -- teach someone how to sew.  

   

   Photo credit: source

   
   
7. Teach someone how to mend and keep their clothes out of the landfill.  

   

   Photo credit: source

   
   
8. Donate excess fabrics to a church / charity group or school program.  

   

   Photo credit:  source

   
   
9. Sew Superhero capes for sick kids.  
   
   
   
10. Donate excess buttons to a math club or teacher, elementary students can use these for counting.  
    
    
    
11. Use sewing supplies (buttons, empty thread spools, etc.) as pieces for outdoor game mats.  

    

    Photo credit:  source

    
    
12. Surprise a friend with reusable grocery bags.  Or fill one with groceries for a food donation box.  
    
    
    
13. Sew personalized face masks for friends and family. 

    

    
     
14. Keep it simple and share a laugh and a smile.  

How will you be celebrating Random Acts of Kindness Day?  

Stay safe and keep sewing!

Oh My Goodness! I Want a Wardrobe Full of DVF Wrap Dresses: OOP Vogue 1610

Sewing an authentic Vogue Diane Von Furstenberg designer wrap dress pattern has been on my sewing bucket list for more years than I care to count.  So, I won't because I'm really excited to show you the finished project and gush about this pattern.   

This dress is made with vintage and out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1610, circa 1977.  

Now, I've made a few wrap dress over the years.  There was OOP Vogue 8896, a lovely wrap dress that I made back in 2014.  My fabric proved to be a challenge to sew and the polyester fibre content proved too uncomfortable for a prairie summers. OOP Vogue 7014 is another wrap dress pattern that I tried and ended up making three versions in 2016.  Again, polyester knit was the fabric choice, not the best choice.  And then I tried OOP Vogue 8827 wrap dress pattern in 2021.  Yup that one didn't work out as a wrap dress and ended up as a cardigan jacket.  And then there was vintage Simplicity 8032, another wrap dress project from 2014.  It was a fun make and even though I thought I might revisit the pattern because it could be made in woven fabric, I did not.  All of these wrap dress designs were lovely in their own right.  Yes, I did refer to them in the past tense.  They are no longer part of my current wardrobe.  Simply, they just don't compare to the DVF Vogue 1610 design.  

Diane Von Furstenberg's name is widely associated with the iconic wrap dress design despite the fact that other designers have designed wrap dresses before and since.  

Charles James "Taxi dress,"
circa 1932

There is a reason why DVF stands alone as the wrap dress gold standard.  It's all about the fit.  I didn't realize this simple fact while I worked through all those Vogue and Simplicity versions.  

I'm absolutely smitten with the shape of the skirt and those soft gathers, the tuck instead of back bodice darts and the placement of the sleeves that sit perfectly at the shoulder.  

Oh, and fabric matters.  If you get your hands on a vintage DVF wrap dress pattern, pay attention to the stretch recommendation on the pattern envelope.  A four-way stretch or polyester ity knit might not give you the fit you desire.   

I didn't mess with the design too much.  Size-wise, I didn't make any adjustments and I won't have to in the future.  I did omit the side pockets after realizing that I didn't raise the pocket height while I cut out the fabric.  And now that it's done I believe that the placement of the pockets would have been fine.  I don't miss the pockets and will likely leave them off in the next versions.  The pattern calls for a three inch hem.  Instead, I cut three inches off the length and opted for a 5/8" top stitched hem.  The sleeve calls for a small tuck detailing above the hem edge.  Even though I thought this was a sweet detail, I didn't sew this design feature.  

My fabric is a cotton jersey that I found at Northwest / Marshall Fabrics.  It is a lovely two-way stretch.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the wash, followed by some drying time in the dryer before hitting the cutting table to discover it shrunk!  Thankfully, I started with 3 metres of fabric (more than listed on the pattern envelope) and with careful pattern piece placement I had, literally, just enough length.  

Words can't justify the fun I had sewing this project, the details that I admired, and the fit that I couldn't have imagined until I put it on. 

Project Details

Seams:  lightning bolt / knit stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres cotton knit jersey

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1610

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Flip chart paper (for pattern tracing), clappers (used as paper weights), black marker, straight ruler, curved ruler, cutting table, measuring tape, scissors, tailor chalk, pins, pin cushion, sewing machine, ball point needle, walking foot, serger, threads, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, and many tea breaks.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Are you a pattern tracer?  

Or do you just dive right into a pattern and snip away?  

I'll admit, for most of my sewing journey I've been one to cut away.  It was all about saving precious time and spending it at the sewing machine.  

There were exceptions. 

When I need to grade a pattern, I will certainly trace it out.  

Or if I'm working with a new-to-me pattern line, I'll give serious consideration to investing the time into tracing.  

But what about if you have a pattern in your size from a pattern line you've worked with before?  Would you spend the time tracing?  

A pattern just like this one crossed my cutting table.  

I didn't have the heart to cut into it.  

I've wanted to sew an authentic Diane Von Furstenberg wrap dress Vogue pattern for years.  

Many years.  

And now that the opportunity presented itself, I just couldn't cut into it.  

So, I risked it all.  

The potential back pain, the aching knees, it was a risk worth taking to preserve this pattern.  

I'm taking my time with this project.  

I'm enjoying the process.  

And the details that make this pattern so special.  

It is with crossed fingers that I'm carefully stitching it together hoping that I will end up with a wearable toile.  

If not, that's okay.  

Because this is a project that brought back the joy in sewing, missing for far too long.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

National Flag of Canada Day: Wearing My Maple Leaf Top Should Not be Complicated Today

When I made this top a couple of years ago, I was proud that I had a Canadian symbol to show my pride in the country that I call home.  It is not a piece that I wear often.  It is something that I consider wearing to a Canada Day event or on National Flag of Canada Day.  And sometimes, during the hot weather I might pull this lightweight cotton top out of the closet.  

As I watch the news in absolute disgust over the past few weeks of flag defacing and wearing anarchists disrupt our peaceful country while hiding behind the rhetoric that it's about Covid-mandates.  Let's get serious, this is not about mandates.  This is about foreign actors and a minority group of Canadians trying to overthrow our democratically-elected government and some of the Conservative politicians who are happy to back them.  

Let me jump off the soap box and bring this back to the printed fabric.  As Ian Brown wrote in an essay piece for the Globe and Mail this weekend, "[t]hose who wave the Canadian flag do not get to define it for everyone."  I wear my maple leaf printed shirt today because I believe in all the good that Canada represents and that we're a work in progress towards a loving and just community.  I believe in democracy and I wear the maple leaf printed shirt in support of the emergency measures act being invoke with the hope the civility and peace can be restored.  

Wearing this symbol, just like wearing a face mask, is an act of love.   

Stay Safe, Stay Peaceful and Keep Sewing!

Patchwork Pajama Bottoms: OOP Vogue 9217

I'm so happy to share this project.  I've been working on this project for a few weeks.  Actually, ten weeks ago I started cutting and piecing scraps together.  

Actually, it's the finding and piecing together fabric scraps in order to have enough yardage for these pajama bottoms that kept me busy these many weeks.  Once I had the project cut, it was a quick and easy project.  

The best part of these patchworked pants are the memories associated with each little piece that has been stitched into one.  I was actually inspired by a pair of patchwork pajamas I spotted on an Etsy shop and thought that I could make a pair with the amount of fabric scraps I've managed to collect.  It turned out to be more rewarding than I thought.  I love the fact that I was able to use itty bitty pieces of fabric.  All the pieces are serged together.  

The pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9217 is my tried and trusted pattern for pajama bottoms.  I opted for a straight leg instead of the dolphin hem on this pattern.  And I omitted the side pockets.  I don't really need pockets in my sleepwear.  

Project Details 

Seams:  2.5 straight stitch 

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Anything and everything I could get my hands on!  

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP 9217

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Scissors, ruler, iron, ironing board, sewing machine, serger, threads, thread clippers, safety pins and many breaks.  

Stay Safe and Keep Sewing!  

Style Adaptation for Greater Pocket Access: Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

UPDATE:  This note is for future reference in case this project makes it to the cutting table.  the placement of the cargo pocket should be higher.  The center of the pocket sits where the knee bends.  an adjustment will be necessary.  Otherwise, the idea of a front upper leg cargo pocket is a win.  

Kwik Sew 3663 has been elevated to tested and trusted (TNT) status as this is the fifth time this pattern hit the cutting table.  I am still smitten with the technique for sewing the side pockets and they are much appreciated by the wearer of the previous pairs.  So why am I messing with this design?  Well, pockets are everything.  

And more important, easy access to a pocket.  These pants are gifted to someone who spends most of their day sitting.  Mobility issues have been forefront in my gift and charity sewing and consideration of style adaptations.  

Threads magazine wrote a wonderful article on adaptive clothing and suggests moving cargo pockets to the front upper thigh.  Fingers are crossed that these work as I did cut into a much treasured piece of denim.  The cargo pocket pattern was borrowed from McCall's 6973 and I decided to leave the flap off this design since I was seeking greater pocket access.  

The fabric is a beautiful 100% cotton denim from Emma One Sock that I was thinking about turning into a pair of jeans for moi.  Plans change and it is hard to deny the fabric was much better suited for this project.  The denim is not stiff, it's actually a very nice weight to handle the elastic wasistband.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a wash and a dryer tumble before hitting the ironing board for a good stream pressing.   

Note:  While trying to find a link to this pattern, I discovered that Kwik Sew patterns are being discontinued.  This pattern, Kwik Sew 3663, is still available on various online seller sites.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.4 -- 2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.10 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Patterns:  Kwik Sew 3663 and McCall's 6973

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, measuring tape, measuring gauge, scissors, thread clippers, serger, threads, sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, regular presser foot, iron, ironing board, seam ripper and safety pins.  

Stay safe and keep sewing!

National Wear Red Day: Make Sewing a Healthy Activity

Did you know that today, the first Friday in February, is National Wear Red Day?  

It's all about Heart and Stroke awareness.  And I realize that you might be thinking, "what does this have to do with sewing?"  Well, sewing can involve long periods of time where we're sitting at our machines or sitting while we are hand sewing.  

Here are some heart and stroke busting tips that we can weave into our sewing journey.  

First, grab your measuring tape!  

Did you know that roughly 60% of Canadian adults are over-weight?  Sure, we can blame it on pandemic pounds. I'm guilty.  But to be completely honest, this was a pre-pandemic issue for most of us.  It's not just being overweight, it's where we carry our weight.  

Do you have that measuring tape?  Let's wrap it around our waist.  If you are female and your waistline measurement is greater than 31 1/2 inches you're considered to be at increased risk for heart and stroke issues.  Now, this is not the end and be all factor for determining your risk assessment.  It's a starting point to look at our health and have those all important conversations with our health care professionals.  Body mass index, family history, and other factors play a part of our risk assessment.  

Red sweatshirt fabric turtleneck dress,
OOP Burda 8848

It might signal a time to watch your blood pressure.  High blood pressure can be kept under control with medication but wouldn't you rather spend that money on fabric and sewing supplies?  Lifestyle changes will help with keeping our sewing budget from being eaten up by the medical side of the budget.  

Red car coat:  OOP McCall's 2495

One of the lifestyle changes recommended is to lose weight and exercise more.  How about moving the ironing board away from the sewing machine?  This way, we'll have to get up and walk to the ironing board.  No one is saying that you have to spend an hour or more at the gym, taking you away from your sewing projects.  Especially now, with many gyms at reduced capacity, reduced time slots or under lockdown measures.  So how about considering exercise snacking?  Short bursts of exercises that can be done on the spot without a change of clothes.  Although, I'm all for stepping away from the sewing machine and going outside for some fresh air as well.  

Another lifestyle change is to alleviate stress and what better way than sewing?   Need I say more?  

One more lifestyle change that I really can't avoid mentioning is diet.  It kind of goes hand and hand with the losing weight part.  I'll confess, I'm a sewing room snacker.  When trying to get your blood pressure to a healthy number, one is advised to watch one's salt, caffeine and alcohol intake.  Ahhh, coffee how I'm going to miss you.  I'm going to have to replace you with water and exercise snacking.  

Wear red and keep sewing!  

 

Book Review: Fake Silk

Fake Silk:  The Lethal History of Viscose Rayon

Author:  Paul David Blanc, M.D.

ISBN:  978-0-300-20466-7

Publisher:  Yale University Press, 2016

Hardcopy price:  $40.00 Cdn

Fake Silk is a well-researched, detailed and deeply dark look at the profitable production of viscose rayon at the expense of workplace safety, human rights and medical observations.  It is a roadmap of political maneuvering and cover-ups in order hide the horrific history of cellulose-derived viscose to the current "green-washing" it as an eco-friendly product.  

This is not an easy or entertaining read.  It is an important read for anyone interested in the social, human and environmental impact of the textile industry.  

Blanc's research is not limited to viscose rayon, he also delves into the production and marketing of Modal and Lyocell (Tencel) as eco-friendly by avoiding at all costs (human and monetary) the word "synthetic" in its marketing campaign.  These fabrics may be free of carbon disulfide but it is not free of a chemically intensive process as Blanc points out.  Modern marketing campaigns are designed to maintain a "consumer blind spot that keeps the wounded worker out of sight" is the same old game that had been played for over a century and allows this hazardous manufacturing to continue and expand globally.  

Yes, many parts of this book are dense in the examination of the history of viscose but it's worth the work and time investment to see how this plays out in our present day and the key players in this story.