February in Review

This month was all about self-care and the journey of finding a tried and true (TNT) shirt pattern.

Clockwise Top L to R:  Red and white maple leaf print shirt, Butterick 6325; grids and dots shirt, Vogue 1678; pin-tucked shirt; Butterick 6026 and Vogue 1503

I did manage to sew three shirts this month. Two of the three are perfectly wonderful but the white pin-tucked shirt is a wee bit snug around the mid-section when I sit down. This unfortunate fact makes it an uncomfortable item to wear at the moment. Hence, the self-care aspect of the month filled with sit ups and other various exercises to see if I can fix this fitting issue.

This month I can report that no new fabrics or notions entered the stash. However, I just couldn't resist Vogue 1678. Even though I did add one more pattern to the collection, it has already been sewn and it's a pattern I plan to revisit with some white linen. So, I'm not feeling overly guilty about picking up this pattern.
Talking about patterns, I did spot this Assembly Line pattern.

It's basically the skirt portion of the Tulip dress I make last month.

No need to pick up the Tulip skirt pattern since I can just draft a waistband and use the dress pattern for the remaining skirt pieces. This will be on my March wish-to-make list.

The following supplies were destashed during the month of February:

• 7.2 metres of fabric
• 26 buttons
• 1.8 metres fusible interfacing
• 4 sewing patterns were used
• 3 sewing machine / serger needles

Earlier this week, with Ash Wednesday, came the start of Lent and there is a Lenten Sewing project in the works. I'm going to keep it under wraps for now and see how things turn out. I hope to have more to share later if all goes according to plan.  

Until then,

Happy Sewing!

The Quest for the Perfect White Shirt Pattern: Vogue 1678

I'm on a quest for "the perfect white shirt" pattern. And the next stop in my search is with Vogue 1678 from the Spring 2020 pattern release.

Design wise this pattern checks off a few items from my wish list, asymmetrical design, long sleeves and cuffs, loose-fitting enough to hide my weight gain (at least until I lose some weight). Missing from my wish list are pockets and a menswear style sleeve placket.

In reality, it hit all of my wish items, this pattern is as close to perfect as it can get. I can live without pockets on a shirt and even though there are not the traditional menswear style sleeve placket, I like the finish on this one. I absolutely adore the design. This pattern is a keeper.

There were a few changes after the first fitting. I opened up the side slits three and a half inches to accommodate the need for extra ease in the backside.  And I had to adjust the button placement for again for the need for extra ease. Easy fixes. I did shorten the sleeves about one inch before cutting (my usual adjustment) but I could have easily doubled that adjustment. I might shorten the hem next time around. I used the couture method (also known as the burrito method) for sewing the yoke instead of the method illustrated in the instructions.

I didn't want to use up anymore white fabric from the stash until I found "the one" pattern that would be worthy of the honour. The fabric that I did use for this project is a medium weight cotton with some stretch from Mitchell Fabrics found lingering in the stash. It has an uneven grid and dot pattern and was pretreated with a tumble through the washer and dryer cycles followed by a steam pressing.

These four hole buttons were a recent find at Northwest Fabrics. They don't often carry buttons and I couldn't be more pleased with how perfect they turned out to be for this fabric.

I'm defiantly going to revisit this pattern. Maybe in a white linen.

The Stats

Fabric:  2.2 metres

Interfacing:  0.7 metres

Buttons:  10 - 1/2" buttons

Pattern:  Vogue 1678

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, rulers, measuring gauge, clapper, sleeve ham, tailor's ham, sewing machine, buttonhole foot, serger, threads, tweezers, thread clippers, tailor's wax, hand sewing needle, thimble, buttonhole cutter, hammer, cutting board and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!

Troubleshooting Thursdays: Sewing Machine Motor Doesn't Run

I'm all for trying to solve a sewing machine issue and saving some money but when it comes to the motor there are some things that are best to leave it to the professional.  That said, there are some things you might want to check before packing up your sewing machine.  

1.  Check if the machine is plugged in

Okay, this might seem obvious but it worth a check.  The electrical cord may have come unplugged from the wall.  

2.  Defective cord

Check to any damage spots on the power cord.  If this is the case, replace it.  

3.  Burnt out motor

This is one of those situations when it is best to pack up the machine to take it to the repair shop.  If the motor smells bad, it may need to be replaced.  

4.  Foot control is not working

The foot control can be defective.  Two things can happen, the foot control may have stopped working or the machine will only run on high speed.  If it is the latter, the foot control may be partially burnt out.  If the foot control can be separated from the sewing machine (plug-in type) you may be able to order a replacement from the manufacturer or an online vendor.  If your foot control is permanently attached to the machine, best to pack it up and take it to be replaced by a professional.  

Previous Troubleshooting Thursday posts:

Motor Runs, Machine Doesn't

Machine Won't Feed Fabric Through

Broken Needles

Skipped Stitches

Puckered Stitches

Broken Upper Sewing Machine Thread

Broken Lower Sewing Machine Thread

Happy Sewing!

The Science of Kindness

Today is filled with reasons to celebrate, for me it's a sewing day as today is an official holiday.  Locally, in this part of the world it is Louis Riel Day. Other parts of this country are celebrating Family Day as Louis Riel still to this day is a controversial figure. -sigh-

It also happens to be National Acts of Kindness Day.   

Be Kind to the Environment

1.  Hang your clothes to dry instead of throwing them in the dryer
2.  Walk or take the bus instead of taking the car
3.  Car pool
4.  Recycle and reuse
5.  Give up plastic
6.  Sew some reusable produce bags and share them with your family and friends
7.  Sew some reusable snack bags and share them with your family and friends
8.  Sew reusable grocery bags and share them with your family and friends
9.  Live simply.
10.  Learn about fabrics and discover the pros and cons of natural vs. man-made fibres
11.  Reduce the use of chemicals

Be Kind to Your Neighbourhood

12.  Pick up garbage that is left lingering on the street after garbage pick-up
13.  Clear the snow off your elderly neighbour's driveway or if weather dictates offer to cut the grass
14.  Sweep the public sidewalk in front of your home
15.  Plant some flowers
16.  Trim your trees
17.  Say hello to your neighbours
18.  Be involved, attend neighbourhood meetings
19.  Clear the storm drain of leaves
20.  Support local small businesses
21.  Support local farmer's markets

Be Kind to Your Community

22.  Sew, knit or crochet blankets for fire victims
23.  Help with snow clearing at your church
24.  Tutor a student struggling with the "new" math
25.  Welcome a newcomers to your community, offer to show them around
26.  Sew for Cancer patients (chemo ports, chemo hats, pillows, etc.)
27.  Donate books to charities
28.  Teach computer skills to seniors
29.  Teach someone how to sew
30.  Help with organizing community events
31.  Become politically aware so that you're not duped by political lies and half truths
32.  Sew for local theatre groups

Be Kind to Your Family

33.  Offer to prepare dinner
34.  Offer to clean the dishes
33. Spend some time and listen to them without offering advice.  Sometimes all we just need someone to listen.
35.  Give compliments
36.  Tell them you love them
37.  Don't take them for granted, cherish your time together
38.  Sew them something special
39.  Give hugs freely
40.  Treat them to a free movie
41.  Pick up groceries and put it away
42.  Show interest in their hobbies
43.  Support them even if you don't agree with them

Be Kind to Yourself

44.  Make time to pray
45.  Be grateful
46.  Take a bubble bath
47.  Make time to read
48.  Invest in yourself, take a course or learn a new skill
49.  Make time for your hobbies
50.  Drink water
51.  Eat healthy food
52.  And treat yourself to a cookie every once and a while
53.  Don't feel guilty for taking time for yourself
55.  Treat yourself to a night out at the symphony, opera or a concert
56.  Make time for those who are important in your life
57.  Make time for exercise
58.  Plank, your core will thank you!
59.  Invest in a standing desk
60.  And a proper cutting table
61.  Learn to cook, take cooking lessons

Be Kind to Your Co-Workers

62.  Surprise them with homemade muffins

63.  Give them compliments

64.  Ask how their day is going
65.  Show interest
66.  Participating in a potluck lunch?  Ask if your co-workers have any food allergies or restrictions to make sure everyone feels included.
67.  First one in the staff room?  Make coffee for when your co-workers arrive.
68.  Don't make someone feel bad about not participating in workplace activities that cost money.  Not everyone makes the same amount of income and you may not know what someone can afford to participate in.
69.  Smile
70.  Don't exclude others, you're part of a team.
71.  Offer help if you have time and you see a co-worker can use some assistance
72.  Share new techniques and skills you picked up at a personal development event
73.  Upgrade your skills so that you're valuable to the team

Be Kind to Those in Need

74.  Don't judge
75.  Sew winter gear for the homeless
76.  Sew sleeping bags for the homeless
77.  Don't turn away
78.  Listen to their stories
79.  Pick up that extra box of cereal for the local food drive box
80.  Pick up thank you cards for participants at Employment Counselling organizations can use to send out after interviews.
81.  Donate interview appropriate clothing to Employment Counselling organizations
82.  Donate school supplies to students in need
83.  Help out with breakfast programs at schools
84.  Be someone's cheerleader
85.  A smile really can make all the difference
86.  Laughter is the best medicine
87.  Say thank you.  Everyone needs to feel appreciated.
88.  Cook food that can be frozen for someone going through chemo or has recently been hospitalized.  They might not have the energy to prepare their own meals.
90.  Sew and prepare personal care kits for the homeless
91.  Don't gossip, words can hurt or heal.  Make the right choice.
92.  Read to a child

Be Kind to our Furry and Feathered Friends

93.  Don't let your cat run unattended through the neighbour, at the very least put a bell on them so the neighbourhood birds have a chance to enjoy the outdoors.
94.  Pick up some cat or dog food to add to the food drive boxes
95.  Volunteer at an animal shelter
96.  Sew blankets for the local animal shelter
97.  Sew pet toys for the local animal shelter
98.  Offer to look after a neighbour's dog if they're in the hospital or out of town.
99.  Don't feed bread to the birds at a duck pond
100.  Admire a seeing eye dog from a respectable distance, they are doing an important job!  You can show your admiration through this organization.

Or just be kind your own way.  Happy National Acts of Kindness Day!  

Celebrating National Flag of Canada Day: Butterick 6325

Today marks National Flag of Canada Day and I can't think of a better reason to break out this fabric and sew something festive for the occasion.  Fifty-five years ago, the red and white maple leaf flag that we know today was raised for the first time on Parliament Hill in our nation's capital.  

I actually picked up this 100% cotton fabric and pretreated it about seven or eight months ago thinking about a Canada Day shirt when all the Canadiana prints hit a prominent position in the local fabric shop shelves. And as with life, finding time to sew became a challenge and the project didn't materialize in time for the Canada Day festivities. This is my second chance at completing the project for a festive occassion. Bonus, I'll have a shirt for Canada Day in a few short months.

For this project I used Butterick 6325, a kAtheRine Tilton design. It's a fun pattern to sew. Not so much fun to cut as many of the pieces were singular and that added to the time at the cutting table. I just wanted to get to the sewing!

But it was all worth the wait. This will go down as a favourite pattern and I'm already planning another version. It's well drafted and well marked. Even though others found that the ease was quite generous on this pattern I stayed with a size medium and I'm pleased with the fit. Other than shortening the length on the sleeves, there were no other changes.

The pleated collar is quite lovely as are the pleats on the sides. The buttons were from the stash, picked up a few years ago when Mitchell Fabrics closed down.  All of the supplies and materials for this project were found in the stash.

Happy National Flag of Canada Day!

The Stats

Fabric:  3 metres

Interfacing:  0.8 metres

Buttons:  5 - 1/2" shank buttons

Pattern:  Butterick 6325

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, ruler, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, thimble, sewing machine, serger, buttonhole foot, buttonhole cutter, cutting board, hammer, tweezers, tailor's wax and some time for a tea break or two.  

Happy Sewing!

Happy Valentine's Day!

Happy Valentine's Day! There is no Valentine's day sewing project on the table, just festive wishes. Oh and a poem.  

Love is in the air

So is the flu

Wash you hands

It's the kind thing to do!

I'm only partly kidding. I'm getting over the nastiest flu and sinus infection. If you love someone, if you love yourself, wash your hands. Often. Handwashing is not going to harm you or others but not doing it just might.  

Okay, I'm jumping off my soap box and onto sewing related news.  Thanks for listening to my Valentine's Day plea.  

I fell off the "no sewing patterns" pledge this month. This pattern, Vogue 1678, arrived earlier today. The perfect Valentine's gift (besides hand washing). 

I have to say that I really do like the new look of the Vogue envelopes. The line drawings on the back are bigger as well. And this design! Smitten for sure. I can't wait to get to work on view A, maybe this weekend.  Right now there is another project that I like to work on this long weekend. I'm actually off until Wednesday. Squeal! The sewing room might actually see a flurry of activity.  

In other sewing news, I've been asked if I could take someone's measurements for a bridal dress. Even though taking body measurements isn't new to me, taking measurements for bridal wear is absolutely new to me. I've been doing some online research on the topic. The Last Minute Bride has a checklist for brides that I'll follow for measuring the bust, hips, natural waist, hollow to hem and dress only. Do you have any tips or suggestions on measuring for bridal wear?  

On that note, I should get back to celebrating Valentine's Day spending my time with the hobby I love.  

Happy Sewing!

Troubleshooting Thursdays: Motor Runs, Machine Doesn't

Okay, if the motor runs but the sewing machine mechanisms don't, this might be one of those occasions that it's best to take the machine in for service. In many cases, the motor belt is located inside the machine and it's wise to take it to an authorized service centre for repair.  Possible issues:  

1.  Motor belt is broken.

If you have easy access to the motor belt this is one issue to check and possibly replace on your own.  However if access to the motor belt is not easily obtained, leave it to a professional to do.  

2.  Motor belt is loose.  

If this is the case and you can access the belt, adjust it so that the belt is tight, but not overly tight.  

Previous Troubleshooting Thursday posts

Machine Won't Feed Fabric Through

Broken Needles

Skipped Stitches

Puckered Stitches

Broken Upper Sewing Machine Thread

Broken Lower Sewing Machine Thread

Happy Sewing!

Mix & Matching Pattern Pieces: Butterick 6026 and Vogue 1503

A few years ago, I made up Butterick 6026 with much delight over those pin tucks. I made a second version and even though both are worn often during the warmer months, they don't see much action in the winter months.  I need long sleeves in the winter as I often wear shirts under sweaters. It gets cold in this part of the world during the winter months. Dividing your time between the chill of the outdoors and the warmth of the indoors, dressing in layers is key to surviving the winter months.  

And that is when I started to think about my favourite sleeve pattern from Vogue 1503.  If it could work with out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7546 to make a shirtdress perhaps it can work with another pattern. Even though there is a slight difference on the curve on the sleeve cap it was evident that this could work with the Butterick pattern as well.

So here is my shirt created with design elements from two of my favourite pattern designers, Katherine Tilton and Rachel Comey. I eliminated the back darts, collar and switched the sleeve patterns pieces. The sleeve length and shoulder width above the notches was shortened and the hemline was straightened.  I kept my favourite design feature, the narrow pin tucks.

The pin tucks were marked with a clip from the seam edge and chalk marking at the end points.

I used these markings to turn over and press a crease line before taking it over to the sewing machine to stitch in place.

I used the blind hem foot for sewing the pin tucks and adjusted the needle position to the right. Easy peasy!

The sleeve was sewn into the armhole flat rather than fitted. There was no need for easing the sleeve curve after trimming the bodice pieces.

The fabric is a cotton and linen blend that I found at Northwest Fabrics / Marshall's many moons ago. There is actually enough of this fabric left over to whip up another shirt if the mood strikes. It was pre-treated with a tumble though the wash cycle and dryer, followed by a steam pressing. It handled the pretreatment process well.

The buttons are recycled from Mama R's button stash.  Feeling under the weather, I didn't have the energy to drag out the cutting board and buttonhole cutter to open the buttonholes so I went old school and used thread clippers.

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres

Interfacing:  0.30 metres

Buttons:  11 - 3/8" recycled

Patterns:  Butterick 6026 and Vogue 1503

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, iron, ironing board, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, thread clippers, sewing machine, blind hem foot, buttonhole foot, serger, tweezers, screwdrivers, new serger needle, sleeve ham, tailor's ham, clapper, cough syrup, meds, and many breaks.

Happy Sewing!

Troubleshooting Thursdays: Machine Won't Feed Fabric Through

On the ongoing series of troubleshooting to save sewing machine repair bills, let's take a look at possible at-home fixes for when a sewing machine won't feed fabric through.  

1.  Check the presser foot

This might be a simple case of the presser foot is loose.  Make sure that the presser foot thumb screw is tight.

2.  Sewing uneven surfaces?

Consider changing your sewing machine feet.  A walking foot provides an addition set of feed dogs to help push fabric through.  Or perhaps, it's an issue with the presser foot trying to climb over a bulky section, in this case a Jean-a-ma-Jig might help maneuver this section of fabric.

3.  The stitch adjustment control is set to zero

Easy peasy!  Just adjust the stitch length to the proper normal setting for your machine.

4.  Check the feed dog position

Make sure that the feed dog position is set to the raised position for sewing rather than the dropped position for darning.

5.  Check the presser bar

Consider the fabric you will be sewing to check if the presser bar is adjusted according.  For thin fabric adjust to a little pressure on the foot whereas heavier fabric will need more pressure on the foot. 

6.  Is there lint lingering?  

Thank you Linda for your comment to remind us to check out the lint situation that builds up during and after a sewing project.  

Remove the throat plate and check the bobbin case area for excess lint or fragments of old threads that need to be cleaned out.  

Excessive lint build up can prevent the sewing machine from properly feeding the fabric through.  Ideally, after finishing a project, that is when I like to clear out any lint that might be lingering in this area to keep things running smoothly.  

Previous Troubleshooting Thursday Posts:

Broken Needles
Skipped Stitches
Puckered Stitches
Broken Upper Sewing Machine Thread
Broken Lower Sewing Machine Thread

Happy Sewing!