Monday, 5 December 2016

Winter Coat: Underlining

Progress on the coat slowed down today. I do believe that my plans to sew a winter coat in a weekend were overly ambitious. Between the stabbing pain from this sore throat when I cough and the chills to the breaks to mix some tea, honey and lemon, I'm amazed that I got anything done this afternoon. 

Mind you there was a near error so it's a good thing that things slowed down. Luckily, no seam-ripper work. I might have given up if it came to that.   

I'm currently working trying to work on the inside of the coat and this is where I've taken a detour from the pattern instructions and creating more work for myself. So far, I'm not regretting any of the extra work. The hem bands have been attached with one small change, I interfaced them with a fusible interfacing. I like that the hem has more structure than if it were left without interfacing especially with the hem darts.  

The other detour is that I chose to underline my coat. Underlining is basically another layer of fabric that has either been sewn to your fashion fabric or in this case my coat lining. There are many reasons why one might want to underline. It is a technique that is asked for in some of my vintage couturier patterns. And I underlined an eyelet fabric for modesty reasons with this vintage wrap dress. With this coat project it is all about warmth. 


Instead of underlining my fashion fabric like in the previous projects, I'm going to baste my underlining fabric to my lining fabric. You might see this as being referred to as interlining in some sewing reference books. The fabric I chose for this is a light-weight fleece. If money was no object, I would have gone with a light-weight wool. Just to make sure the wind wouldn't blow right through me.    

Most reference books suggest cutting the underlining fabric, basting to the lining (or fashion fabric) and then sewing but I decided to sew the darts individually rather than together.  


It worked and I didn't have to worry about the layers slipping as a stitched the darts. Right now the back piece is pinned and waiting to be basted. I still have to cut the underling fabric for the sleeves and front. Stitch more darts and baste. This might take awhile and feeling under the weather I'll be happy to have this project all wrapped up by Christmas. Hopefully sooner!  

Until then... happy sewing!  




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