Tuesday, 4 February 2014

Mama's New Jacket

Stash-busting 2014:  Project #2 Mama's New Jacket

Fabric:     1.2 metres of velvet denim and 1 metre of lining fabric. 

Thread:   Black thread from the thread stash, used in the overlook and sewing machines.   

Sewing Goals Achieved with this project:   None even though the pattern has set in sleeves that require the sleeve lining to be slipstitched over the seam. The jacket pattern also recommends interfacing the front sections. Based on my fabric choice I chose not to apply these techniques.  

Equipment used for this project:  Janome sewing machine, Janome overlock machine, scissors, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, and a new universal sewing machine needle. 


I started this project last year, the last few steps took quite some time to get done. By the time December rolled around I just had the sleeves to insert. And then the curveballs flew and then Mama R's jacket fell to the sidelines. While I was on the mend I had lots of time to hand-stitch the sleeves in place. Here it is, finally, a wearable muslin  new jacket for Mama R.  

The pattern:

To be completely honest, Vogue 8916 did not immediately strike me as something that I would like to make. I picked up the pattern because Mama R liked the jacket when I was scoping out Channel-esque style jacket patterns. And now I have to say, I'm a fan of this pattern too. I actually wouldn't mind making one for myself sometime. 

It is a loose-fitting, lined jacket with front side seams which conceal front pockets. The back has shoulder darts and three-quarter length sleeves.  

The fabric:

This fabric has been in my fabric stash for a long, long time. I actually was surprised to see something that looked just like it here. Except Oona's fabric has some stretch in it and she picked it up at Mood Fabric in New York City. The one from my stash does not have any stretch and was found on the prairies. The navy blue lining fabric was also from my stash. Mama R was not sold on the fabric at first. I picked this as a wearable muslin. Luckily, she's warming up to it now that the jacket is done. 

I was this close to having a new jacket.  

I guess I'll have to make my own someday. 

I was trying to use the fabric as a wearable muslin before I cut into the wool and silk blend that I have in mind for her actual jacket. The "actual jacket" was suppose to be her Christmas present but that didn't work out as planned. 

I decided not to add the lining to the sleeves at the last minute. Mostly because of the bulk and weight on the jacket fabric. There could be a wee bit of laziness in there too, although I am blaming it on low energy during my recovery. The inside of the jacket (front and back) are lined but not the sleeves. I only did this with the wearable muslin and do not plan to do this on the actual jacket. For the same reason, I chose not to interface the jacket front piece, I didn't think it needed it based on the fabric weight. 

Since there was quite some bulk to contend with, I basted the sleeve and stitched all the layers using my walking foot. The sleeve hem is finished with a lace trim and hand hemmed into place. 

Final Verdict:

Even though Mama R is pleased with her new jacket she would like some changes for the "actual jacket" when I get around to it. She likes the the style and fit for the most part. She would just like some more length. The sleeves on the wearable muslin were made into long sleeves. She would like to keep that change and add another inch to the length of the jacket. Easy enough. I think the length looks fine as is, but she's the boss.  

Happy Sewing!   

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