Refashion a Dress into a Wool Skirt

Oh, I am so thrilled with this new skirt.  It was once a turtleneck dress made with OOP Vogue 8939 nearly five years ago.  In that time, it shrank in the length and the armscye seam became distorted.  But what also happened was the merino wool became almost felted into a lovely texture.  And it still fit in the width.  

I just cut and tried to see if it might work.  

And thankfully it did.  I serged the upper edge and sewed a casing for the one inch wide elastic.  And the best part is that it is now part of a matching set.  Actually two.  I can wear the skirt with this cardigan sweater or this pullover Toaster sweater.  All three pieces are made in the same wool fabric.  

Project details

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 turtleneck dress

Elastic:  1 metre

Additional tools and supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, iron, ironing board, safety pin.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

October in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Clockwise top L:  cotton sweatshirt fleece baby onesie OOP and vintage McCall's 7367, wool and polyester skirt Daughter Judy pattern no. 407 (Henry skirt), cream coloured cotton fleece and gray merino wool saddle covers for a scoliosis brace (no pattern used), cotton pants OOP Vogue 1739.

Surprisingly, there was some sewing this month.  Even though I felt like I spent most of the month coughing up a lung or two, I did get some work done at the sewing machine.  Two items were gifted, the skirt was a fail (I got the sizing all wrong) and the saddle covers were the best thing I sewed this month.  Oh wait, it's probably tied with that cute little baby onesie.  

There wasn't a lot of mending and alterations done this month other than I managed to fix a couple of small holes while continuing to edit the wardrobe.  A shout out to Brace Buddies for designing the body sock tank top.  I am now able to wear the brace and sweaters (jumpers) without the worry of damage them with the velcro straps on the brace.  And best part, they are made with cotton knit.  Maybe, I can try to copy this design and add a couple more down the road.  We'll see.  

Stash busting

This month I stashed busted 6.4 metres of fabric, half a metre of twill tape, one snap, two sewing labels, one vintage button, one hook and eye set, three spools of thread, three sewing patterns and 0.6 metres of elastic.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

It's Another Wrap: The Henry Skirt

Another wrap skirt is hot off the sewing machine.  

This wearable toile is made with the Henry Skirt pattern by Daughter Judy.  I discovered this pattern line when a version of this skirt appear on Instagram.  After further investigation I realized that the Henry skirt pattern promises more coverage than a traditional wrap skirt.  

 

The Henry Skirt reminds me of OOP Vogue 9701 with it's fold over front design but it has a different waistband treatment.  Right now the skirt is too big.  Comparing the pattern measurements with my own I thought that I fell at a size XXL and that is what I cut this out as, but it's big.  I will have to move the closures a bit.  I can certainly go down a couple of sizes if I made another version of this skirt.   

A couple of dislike is that the Henry skirt pattern is only available in PDF format.  I'm not one to sit and tape letter size pieces of paper together because it would be a pain in the back, literally.  And now that Winnipeg Sews is no longer in business, the only option to print shop this pattern is Staples.  Even though Staples is convenient with it's same day service, it is a bit pricey.  This was one expensive pattern journey to get it to the cutting table.  Although, the pattern is well drafted.  I'm not a fan of the small text size of the instructions.  Actually, I'm not a fan of the instructions.  Thankfully, this is a straight forward design and easy to put together.  

The skirt length was shortened six inches.  And the position of the buttonhole was moved to the outside of the skirt so that I could show off the gold and silver metal vintage button.  

The fabric is a wool and polyester blend.  I was reluctant to pick it up because of the polyester fibres lurking in this weave are probably waiting to start pilling.  If anything, it's a good toile fabric to test out the pattern.  If it does pill, which I am sure it will one day, I have my fabric shaver on standby.  In the meantime, my fingers are crossed hoping for the best because I'm also smitten with the navy and orange colour of this fabric.  I do miss the days of finding 100% wool suiting fabric at the fabric stores.  That would be lovely with this pattern.  But I digress.  This fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  No need for pressing.  

Sewing IS Political

Even though this sewing project provided a bit of an escape from the chaos we are living in, it did not provide an escape from the convicted felon's tariff war that has dominated the headlines over the weekend.  

This is a Canadian 🍁 made project.  But last month I fell off the boycott wagon when I purchased the pattern.  The pattern is from Daughter Judy, an American company.  The threads even though they were Gütermann brand were made in the U.S.A., much to my surprise.  I paid dearly for this departure from the boycott.  The fabric was found in the discounted section at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The fabric scissors used to cut out the project are from Merchant and Mills, a United Kingdom company.  They were purchased from The Workroom, another Canadian fabric outlet.  The button is vintage and from the stash.  The hook and eye were recycled and also pulled from the stash.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.8 metres

Interfacing:  None used, it's a toile version

Closures:  1 vintage metal button and 1 hook and eye set

Pattern:  The Henry Skirt by Daughter Judy Patterns  

Label:  1 "Circa 2025" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Computer, USB stick, trip to the print shop to print off the pattern, paper and printer for printing the instructions, fabric scissors, cutting table, assorted objects used as pattern weights, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, vintage Brother VX540 sewing machine, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, canned air, lint brush, mini vacuum, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax and a chai latte.  

Stand strong, elbows back up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending (and Alteration) Pile

It is almost guaranteed that when I'm tackling the ironing there will be some mending waiting in the pile for some attention.  

This cotton slip did need some attention at various points where the binding is sewn at the upper edge.  The little holes that were starting to appear were hand sewn closed.  For an eleven year old garment made from a light-weight cotton, it has held up fairly well.  It was an easy fix, just a little bit of time investment.  Plus it is a reminder that slips are on my need-to-sew list.  

These pajama bottoms ripped when they were caught in the drawer as I tried to pull them out.  No stitching, just an interior patch job with some Knit 'N Stable tape.  Let's see how long that will hold.  I'm on the lookout for some scrap pieces of flannel to do a proper patch fix on this one.  

Speaking of quick fixes, I found a solution for the too wide neckline on this black Toaster sweater.  Last year when I made it, I chose to make an oversized version and sewed the largest size.  It has since shrank to a manageable size in the length but not in the width.  And then I caught a sinus and lung infection earlier this month and while dealing with chills, I closed off the neckline with my hands in a fruitless attempt to keep warm.  But it did give me an idea, why don't I close it off with a brooch?  I do have a collection of them!  I will be able to use this quick fix to the gray Toaster sweater as well.  No more drafty necklines and I'm going to count that as a mending win even though no sewing was required.    

This ready-to-wear (RTW) shirt has been in my closet for years but I have yet to wear it.  I love everything about it on the hanger but when I put it on, I question if it's too long and then it is hung back in the closet.  Let's face it women's RTW clothing is not designed for the below five foot crowd.  

I cut three and a half inches off the back, pressed a narrow roll hem and made my way to the sewing machine to change the thread colour on the machine.  I'm sure I'll finally start wearing this top soon.  

Mending Tools and Supplies:  Ironing board, iron, fabric scissors, hand sewing needle, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, threads, brooches, Knit 'N Stable tape.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Part One: Sewing Sleepwear to Wear With a Scoliosis Brace

My go-to sewing patterns for sleepwear have been Butterick 6296 for the top and OOP Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  I've tried a few other sleepwear patterns but I don't reach for these as much.  Over the years, it's all about Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217 and when one pair needed replacing, it was another version of the set that made it to the sewing machine.  

That was until the new back brace entered the picture.  Yes, I sleep with this thing.  

And now my go-to pajama top just doesn't cut it.  I can certainly continue wearing my pajama bottoms but I will have to rethink the top situation.  I'll need instead something fitted but not tight underneath the brace.  The goal is to prevent fabric from bunching under the brace, this will help to avoid skin irritation.  I've been wearing these tops in the meantime.  But I want longer sleeves to keep my arms warm and cozy during those cold prairie winters.  

Now, I will give Vogue 1852 a try as my new sleepwear set.  Before I get ready to cut this pattern, I will need to trace it out and make some adjustments.  First up will be adjusting the pattern for the top.  One side of my back is four centimetres wider than the other side.  There is a shoulder adjustment that will need to be made on one side as well.  The length looks like it might need to be lengthened.  

My two resources to help with these adjustment are The Daily Sews 2018 article "How to Alter a Pattern for Scoliosis" which basically paraphrases Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit:  Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure's chapter on Scoliosis.  I have more issues caused by my scoliosis than are discussed in these resources.  But they are a good starting point.  

So, let's start this journey.  

I have a moderate-severe S-shape curvature and a significant rotation of my spine.  During measurements for the new brace, I discovered that one side of my front to back measurement has a four centimetre difference from the other side.  One side of my hip sits higher than the other side.  My shoulders are also not even and it is exaggerated more when wearing and moving in the brace.  

No wonder I'm smitten with asymmetrically designed patterns, it mimics my body shape!  So, the next step is to make this symmetrical designed patterns into an asymmetrical designed pattern.  Sounds easy enough.  Or does it?  Stay tuned for part two.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

An Accidental Design Change: Saddle Sock

The first saddle sock worked out perfectly and there were plans on making a couple more exactly like the first.  And then an accidental redesign happened when the latest version didn't fit quite like the original.  

This happened because of the fabric choice.  There are two made with an organic cotton fleece and this fabric does not have the stretch of the merino wool version.  I struggled to pull the curved end over the section of the Gensingen brace without success.  But that is okay because it is so incredibly soft that words can not properly describe and it covers the portion of the brace that most needs covering.  

Back to this fabric, there is absolutely no comparing this fleece to the polyester imposter typically found in most fabric stores.  I found this fabric at Marshall Fabrics and walked over to the polyester fleece only to see the difference.  At first touch, I was sold on the cotton fleece.  I want all of the saddle socks made in this fabric even if it means that the front tip is not covered.  Bonus point:  cotton fleece is breathable and hypoallergenic.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  None, it's fleece

Fabric:  0.3 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing. 

Testing out a Pattern: OOP Vogue 1739

UPDATE

This is a finished version of out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1739, view C.  I can finally call this one a wearable toile and it has been gifted into happy arms.  Phew PHEW!  

There were several alterations to this pattern.  The copy of Vogue 1739 is the smaller size combination and I could have used a larger size.  This meant there were some adjustments made to the upper seams at the centre front, back and sides.  The length was shortened approximately five inches and the pants have an inch top-stitched hem.  Since I didn't know if this would work I didn't interface the front waist facing.  Instead of two rows of elastic, there is one casing made to fit an inch wide elastic.  

FITTING NOTES

This semi-finished pair of pants is a toile version.  There is a lovely wool fabric that is waiting to see if this version fits or if it will need some more adjustments.  

The request came from Mama R who is complaining that her pants are not feeling comfortable anymore.  She also does not care for wide leg pants.  I've made her pants in the past using her treasured out-of-print Simplicity 2372.  As of this moment, I can not find that pattern, not even the back-up version I have somewhere likely packed away for safe keeping.  ~sigh~  But I digress.  

The pants made with OOP Simplicity 2372 currently are too snug across the mid-section when she is sitting down.  So it's back to the cutting table to make a toile with another pattern, OOP Vogue 1739 that I have in my stash.  This pattern features a wide and slim fitting leg and elasticized back.  

Mom is not sold on the elasticized back and is requesting a full elastic waist.  But with the slim leg.  This is why I'm not a fan of sewing for others.  I have basically had to beg her to let me try out this pattern and then work from there if there are changes to be made.  The planning stage of the project was not at all a fun process.  If I can get the basic shape down and if she's still requesting a full elastic pants, I will do as she please.  

Overwhelmed with all her complaining about the fit of her pants and what she likes and doesn't like, I turned to my sewing library for help.  My sewing library is currently packed in cardboard boxes and trying to find the resources that I was looking for also sucked every single ounce of joy out of sewing this toile.  It didn't stop me though.  I love my Mom and am determined to finish a toile for her to try on and prayed that it would be a success.  Or at least a starting point.  

I was searching for Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit, I know that I own a copy of this book but after going through many boxes, it is nowhere to be found.  I did find Slacks Fitting Book by Nancy Zieman which was helpful.  

I used Zieman's method to increase the waistband without leaving the grainline and front darts as marked.  Fingers are crossed for the fitting results.  

Determined to give this pattern a try, I got to work cutting the fabric.  My toile fabric is a medium weight cotton stretch fabric that has been in the stash for decades.  There is a part of me that is sad it was used for toile fabric but then if I haven't used in the past decades what am I saving it for?  If it works as a wearable toile I would be thrilled.  The fabric was previously pre-treated and project ready.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres (width, 115 cm)

Elastic:  0.6 metres -- 1" width

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1739 (circa 2020), formerly OOP Vogue 9305

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, iron, ironing board, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, threads and a pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.