Gussets are used in clothing to give ease of movement. I guess the best way I can describe it would be as a piece of fabric that is used to help mold the garment to your body.
Today, I will be sewing a gusset in the Vintage Vogue Dress #1043. It has short kimono sleeves where underarm gussets are typically found to give the sleeve a longer slimmer look that is closer to the body.
The gusset is cut on the bias allowing for the maximum amount of ease of movement and less strain on the fabric.
It is important to reinforce the right side of the fabric with two inch bias cut squares or you can use bias tape sew along the seam line. The pattern calls for bias cut squares of fabric but since my fabric has some weight to it I thought I would use some 2" bias tape.
If your garment fabric frays easily I would also reinforce the wrong side of the garment with iron-on interfacing.
Stitch the squares in place using a smaller stitch length along the stitching line. Make sure that you make a clear pivot point and continue along the stitching line.
Clip to the pivot point.
Turn the bias pieces to the wrong side of the bodice front and back pieces and press.
Continue with the bodice pieces before stitching in the gusset. Stitch along the tuck markings for the bodice front, press down and baste in place.
Sew the back darts and press to the centre back. Stitch the back bodice pieces together at the centre back.
Ease-stitch the shoulder seams before stitching the bodice front to bodice back at the shoulder seams. Now you can attach the bodice pieces at the side seams leaving the lower left side open below the small dot for the zipper.
Now we can attach the gusset, matching the pattern markings (dots and notches). Take care when stitching around pivot points. Gusset stitched with a 5/8" seam allowance.
For more information about sewing gussets Vogue Sewing is a great reference. The instructions included in this pattern were easy to follow too. There is no need to worry, it is a pattern detail that was easy to achieve.
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