Monday 23 May 2011

Bias tape continued...

Sewing bias tape along stay-stitched neckline
The tunic has been coming along nicely, the raw silk has been a great fabric to work with.  Now it is time to sew the bias tape that was created earlier.  First thing first, stay-stitching.

Stay-stitch the neckline of the tunic to prevent it from stretching during construction and to help support the grain at the seam line.

Necklines are typically treated differently from other seams because the grain over the entire neck outline changes directions several times.  To stabalize the neckline stitch a single layer of stitching close to the edge.  For the Vogue 8733 tunic, I stitched 1/8" from the edge starting from the shoulder seams to the middle fronts and backs.  

Open the bias tape to and stitch the bias tape along the fold line of the bias tape.  To shape the bias tape to an outward curve stretch the fold while easing in the open edges.


When applying the bias tape, fold back the starting end 1/2-inch and align the fold at the centre back.

Overlap the bias tape and stitch to over the starting point fold.  The raw edge will be hidden when the bias tape is folded over the neckline edge.


Trim the neckline close to the stay-stitching and fold over the bias tape.  Hand or machine stitch the bias tape fold to the inside seam line.









Front finished edge
Front view

Back view



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