Burda Skirt

Stash-busting 2015:  New Spring Skirt

Fabric:                  1.55 metres cotton fabric with decorative ribbon design @ $8.76 ($5.00/metre + taxes)

Zipper:                  8 inch invisible zipper @ $1.36 ($2.40 @ 50% off + taxes)

Pattern:                 Burda 6766 @ $7.62 ($8.99 - 25% off + taxes)

Basting Tape:     0.35 metres @ 0.34 ($0.98/metre)

Sewn On:              Janome 4120QDC using a regular presser foot for straight stitching, invisible zipper foot for the zipper and blind hem foot for the hem.

Seam Finish:        Serged on a Janome My Lock serger.

Hand-stitching:  Slip-stitched the inside of the waistband.

This fabric has been in my stash for more decades than I care to remember at this moment. Yes, I do believe that it has been in my stash for that long. I held onto this piece of fabric this long trying to decide on what to do with it and then I spotted Burda 6766! I really wanted to showcase the decorative trim sewn onto this 100% cotton fabric and felt that something without too many seams would work best.

The pattern has no front seam and waistband and a back piece. Three easy pieces. What was not so easy is trying to figure out my size in a Burda pattern. Am I the only one in North America that is struggling with converting to European sizing? I'm a straight size 14 with Vogue patterns. Burda patterns not so.

According to the pattern measurement chart, it suggests to cut the skirt according to my hip measurement. Size 20 according to the measurement chart. I did this and I'm happy with the generous amount of ease around my hips. But the fit at the waist was off--way off. The large waist on the skirt was even too big for the size 20 waistband.

I tried to fix this issue by taking in the side seams and tapering down five inches below the waist edge. I was then able to sew the waistband in place but the waist still fits big on me. I can easily take it in a another inch. That said this skirt as is would work for those bloated days. I'm trying to lose weight so I can see this skirt ending up on the cutting table again.

I can see myself (positive visualization here) taking it from the centre back seam and re-inserting the invisible zipper. I know it sounds like a lot of work by by tackling the alterations from the centre back seam I will be able to fix the placement of the back darts which are way off as a size 20 dart.   

Although I personally had fitting issues with this pattern, I wouldn't discourage anyone from giving this pattern a try. It is a great basic pattern and I will try it out again just at a smaller size and another dart placement in the back. Love the longer length and the option to add a decorative hemline finish.

Total cost for basic materials to make the skirt came to $18.08. And it is a unique skirt that I wouldn't see duplicated when walking down the street. Sweet. Sometimes there is a benefit to holding onto to fabric for awhile.  

Happy Sewing!


Update:  The skirt has been altered and now fits beautifully. I had to add another zipper when the one that I removed broke. This added another $2.07 to the materials (zipper and basting tape) making the new revised cost $20.15, still a bargain!  

Leather Trimmed Denim Skirt

Stash Busting 2013:  Project #36

Fabric Used:     1 metre of dark denim

Pattern Used:   Burda Style 7025

Trim Used:       3 metres of leather trim

Zipper Used:    8" invisible zipper

*****

I have a body shape that is not meant for Burda patterns. It doesn't keep me from picking a Burda pattern up hoping that it will prove me wrong. This was not one of those patterns.  

I cut the skirt out in a size 16, the largest size in the pattern but I also made a mistake when cutting. Instead of placing the centre front on the fold I snipped away not realizing the errors of my way until it came to sit down and sew it.  

Despite my challenging body shape and absent minded cutting I managed to  pull off a wearable skirt that I like. It doesn't look anything like the pattern but I'm good with that.  

The fabric has been in my stash for at least a decade and the leather trim longer than that coming all the way from Toronto when I actually lived there. I think the trim can actually be considered vintage at this point.  

To make the pattern work I left off the back darts and the front pleat and took in the sides to give it some shape. The hip area I had to gradually narrow the side seam allowance so that the skirt wouldn't feel so snug in a bad way. The front and back seam allowances where sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance.

The trim I used on the centre front seam and both side seams and finished off the hem. I love how it looks.  

There is no waistband on this skirt. The pattern calls for a narrow facing and it is suppose to be a lined skirt. I opted out of lining the skirt and felt that it worked by folding and top stitching along the raised waist.  

The invisible zipper, next to the leather trim is my favourite part of this skirt. I tell ya, if it weren't for basting tape that invisible zipper wouldn't look this good.

Sew there you have it, it all worked out in the end. And I love my new denim skirt.

Have you ever made something from a pattern that didn't quite work out as planned? Did you like it?

Happy Sewing!

Vogue 1038

Stash Busting 2013:  Project #7

Fabric Used:   2 metres of chocolate brown coloured 100% Polyester, it has been in my fabric stash for ages. I honestly couldn't tell you how long exactly. Let's just say a long time.

Pattern Used:  Vogue 1038, also in my stash for quite some time. Circa 2008.

Zipper Used:   7" invisible zipper from my stash. I used a black zipper instead of running out to buy a brown one. Check me out!

Thread:            I used the taupe coloured thread that I had left over from the latest Vogue 1312. I only had a little bit of dark brown thread in my stash and I wanted to save that for the blind hem.

*****

Oh my! Why had I not sewn this up before now? Oh yeah, I gained a few pounds since I bought this pattern. But it was all good, I adjusted the waist and hip measurements and it worked out fine. Sew really, I don't know why.  

I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this skirt pattern. It is a Donna Karan Collection design and it is incredibly comfortable.

The skirt is supposed to be a floor length skirt but I would be drowning in it. I adjusted the hemline by shortening it two inches and then chopped off another six inches when I did my first fitting. It has a one inch blind hem that I did on the machine.   

It is still a long skirt but not like the one on the pattern envelope photograph.  

The skirt was easy to whip up. There are only three pattern pieces and no darts. It took no time to stitch up. This would be a perfect pattern for a beginner who isn't afraid to tackle an invisible zipper.

Please excuse the horrible photography and the bad hair day with no make-up. I haven't been feeling all that great this weekend and getting all dolled up was not on the agenda this afternoon.

Okay, back to the skirt. I love the fit even though I could have gone a size smaller on the skirt yoke. But I wouldn't want to do that to the rest of the skirt.

I made it out of a suit weight fabric. I am pleased with the way it falls. The side seam is off the side. It starts in the skirt front and diagonally ends at the back hem.

The bonus of this skirt is that I can match it up with my brown swing jacket that I bought many years ago. It was part of a suit, I out grew the skirt years ago and parted with it. But I didn't have the heart to let the jacket go. The embroidery on the lower part of the jacket matches the chocolate brown colour of the skirt. I feel like I have a suit again! And I can pull this off for work.  

I might have to make up a linen version of this pattern for the summer. For now, I should get to that animal print and stitch up Burda 7188.

Happy Sewing!  

Year in Review: Garments

What a year! I managed to make over 30 items for moi, some of my family, and for gifts.

Clockwise L to R: 1. Top, Vogue 1274 2. Baby Onsie, McCall's 7367
3. Men's Shirt, McCall's 2447 4. Most challenging and rewarding
project of 2013, Spring Coat, Burda 7304 5. Bedroom curtains, self-drafted

Clockwise L to R: 1. Navy wool pants and my favourite pattern of 2013: Vogue 1325 2. Floral Top, Burda 7255
3. Messanger Bag 4. Baby Blue Baby Dress, Burda 9752 5. My favourite make of 2013: kAtheRine Tilton Top, Butterick 5891

Clockwise L to R:  1. Knit Fleece, Vogue 8854 2. Plaid Skirt, Vogue 8835
3. Knit Dress, McCall's  6612 4. Knit Dress, Vogue 1312 

Clockwise L to R:  1. Shirt, Burda 7136 2. Leather trimmed denim skirt, Burda 7025 3. Faux fur and knit blanket,
self-drafted 4. Black wool pants, Vogue 1325 5. Gray and blue pinstriped wool and cashmere pants, Vogue 1325 

Clockwise L to R:  1. Skirt, Vogue 1038 2. Vintage Dress, Simplicity 7478
3. Flannel PJ's, McCall's 8525 4. First attempt at making knickers, online pattern
5. Plaid dress, Vogue 8667

Clockwise L to R:  1. Dress, Simplicity 8024 2. Dress, Simplicity 2372 3. First unintentional attempt
at granny knickers, Kwik Sew 2100 4. Red denim pants, Vogue 1325 5. Peplum top, Vogue 8815

Clockwise L to R:  1. Knit sweater,Stretch & Sew 200 2. Black cotton sateen
vest, Simplicity 4763 3. Blue shirtdress, Vintage McCall's 9424 4. Orange
knit skirt, Vogue  86375. Silk duponi top, Centre for Pattern Design, Spiral Top.  

And there were other types of sewing projects that materialized in 2013. More to follow...

Me-Made-May '12: Week One Round-up

May Day! Tuesday, May 1st.  I started off Me-Made May '12 trying to shake a horrible cold-gone-bad that knocked me off my feet.

White Terry Robe:  Simplicity 7417  

Socks:  SmartWool, best gift ever!

Betty Boop PJ bottoms:  Gift

Skechers Tee-shirt:  Gift

Wednesday, May 2nd.  Yes, I did. I wore the same thing two days in a row.  I did change things up and change my tee-shirt and socks.  

White Terry Robe:  Simplicity 7417

Betty Boop PJ bottoms:  Gift

Leonard Cohen Tee-shirt:  Gift
Socks:  SmartWool, again, best gift ever!

  

Thursday, May 3rd.  


Daytime:  Back to work on a rainy, chilly May morning. It didn't end up raining the whole day as predicted and by the end of the day I felt somewhat over-dressed.  

Dress:  Vogue 7794 

Plaid Tights:  Sarah Borghi
Glasses:  DKNY

Watch:  Mio 

My Oh-So-Sexy Knee Braces:  Ossur
 Shoes:  Josef  Seibel 

Evening:  Stayed-in and got rid of my oh-so-sexy knee braces and tights. I was able to fit in a wee bit of sewing before entertaining the neighbour's kids who unexpectedly dropped over with their folks for a visit.  

 Friday, May 4th. 


Daytime:  Working at the school.  I wore my new tee-shirt because it had pockets to hold pennies.  

Yes, pennies.  Today was the last day that the Royal Canadian Mint was producing pennies.  So I shared this piece of trivia with the students and offered them a penny if they expressed how they felt about the penny's demise.  "A penny for their thoughts." 


The pocket for the tee-shirt was perfect, I thought. But the weight of the pennies threatened to drag the neckline down over my shoulder.  So I looked for a cup to hold my pennies.  

Black Skirt:  Refashion pants to skirt project

Melon Tee-shirt:  Butterick 5679

Glasses:  DKNY

My Oh-So-Sexy Knee Braces:  Ossur
Black Shoes:  Groundhog (shown here) 

Evening:  Stayed-in with a good book, Mordecai Richler's On Snooker: The Game and the Characters Who Play It, and my sweater blanket.  Evening Cocktail:  Gin Caesar, hold the celery and the gin (stupid antibiotics for this stupid sinus infection).  

Saturday, May 5th.  Cloudy, rainy Saturday.  

Daytime:  Running errands, shopping, eating, drinking coffee, resume/cover letter writing and reading newspapers... 
Evening:  Cutting out the next sewing project and drinking Chai lattes.  


I was bad, I wasn't feeling the Me-Made-May vibe today. I briefly tried on the denim Burda skirt but I wasn't feeling it.  So I changed. Sorry. I didn't even get a picture.  

Black Skirt:  Refashion pants to skirt project 
(see Friday's skirt)

Red silk print top:  Jones New York

Jean jacket:  Buffalo Jeans 

Shoes:  Mephisto

Sunday, May 6th.  Woke up to a cloudy sky but the sun came out trying to tease me outdoors.  

Daytime:  Housecleaning, laundry, cutting and marking the next sewing project, finished reading the weekend editions of the newspapers.















Evening:  More laundry, television watching, blogging and tidying up the sewing area.

Dress:  Vogue 1234 

(the most comfortable dress in my closet)

Glasses:  DKNY
Braclet:  Vintage Rafael

Me-Made-May '14: Week in Review

Sunday, May 4th

Me-made items:  5
Navy pants Vogue 1325, white french-cuffed shirt out-of-print McCall's 8943, cream coloured spring coat out-of-print Burda 7304, wrap dress Vogue 8896 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.  

Store bought items:  3

Undergarments and pantyhose.

Footwear and Accessories: 

Yellow wedged mary-janes (outdoor shoes), black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.

Monday, May 5th

Me-made items:  4

Cherry and lemons front-buttoned shirt Butterick 5365, red skirt Vogue 1247, indigo boiled wool jacket Vogue 1263 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.

Store bought items:  3

Red tights and undergarments.

Footwear and Accessories: 

Red wedged groundhogs (work shoes), Navy rubber boots (outdoor boots), and black birkenstock (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Tuesday, May 6th

Me-made items:  4
Green skirt Vogue 1247, angel shirt Vogue 1274, cream coloured spring coat out-of-print Burda 7304 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.  

Store bought items:  4
Pantyhose, undergarments and black tee-shirt (art class garment).  

Footwear and Accessories: 

Yellow wedged mary-janes (work and outdoor shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Wednesday, May 7th

Me-made items:  2

Navy pants Vogue 1325 and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.

Store bought items:  5

Sleeveless blue top, multi-coloured blazer, dark grey socks and undergarments.

Footwear and Accessories: 

Red wedged groundhogs (work and outdoor shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Thursday, May 8th

Me-made items:  3

Purple skirt Vogue 1247, white shirt Burda 7136, and nightshirt out-of-print McCall's 8525.

Store bought items:  4
Beige suede jacket, pantyhose and undergarments.  

Footwear and Accessories: 

Yellow wedged mary-janes (outdoor and work shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Friday, May 9th

Me-made items:  3

Black skirt Vogue Pattern magazine Feb/March 2012, Top Butterick 5891, Indigo jacket Vogue 1263.

Store bought items:  3
Pantyhose and undergarments.  

Footwear and Accessories: 

Yellow wedged mary-janes (outdoor and work shoes) and black birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse.  

Saturday, May 10th

Me-made items:  2
Red and white skirt out-of-print Vogue 2885 and nightgown out-of-print Simplicity number unknown

Store bought items:  8
Grey skirt, black, black leggings, white striped tee-shirt, jean jacket, white sweater, white camisole, and undergarments.  

Footwear and Accessories: 

Black Mephistos (outdoor shoes), black Birkenstocks (indoor shoes) and metallic greenish silver purse

Now for something completely different...

Okay, the title might be a little misleading. I was busy sewing another skirt.

Are you sitting down?  It wasn't Vogue 2885. I know, hard to believe!

It is one of the new Burda Style skirt patterns in my stash, Burda Style 7283. It is version B that I chose to make with a slight adjustment. I decided to lower that slit action that is going on in the front.

The fabric is a soft corduroy, the fabric of Kings. Actually, it is more of a pincord. It has a narrow wale and is as soft as velvet. The fabric is a blend and does have some rayon found in it. And despite my apprehension towards rayon, I couldn't resist.

The skirt has a zipper in the centre back. I inserted an invisible zipper that I was quite pleased with. I was a bit worried from straying away from the roller foot when it came to sewing close the centre back seam. Happily there was no need to worry.

Back to the zipper... I couldn't find a 25 cm zipper in the colour that I wanted in my stash. And I really didn't want to run out and pick up another zipper. Sew I improvised.

I picked a brown zipper from my stash that I thought was a close-enough colour and went to work adjusting it to the size I needed.

Everything after that was basically straight forward. I did however decide to leave the mock pocket flaps off. I typically wear my tops/sweaters out and rarely tucked in, and I just wanted to avoid the bulk.


Pattern Description:
High waisted flared skirt has front slit, centre back zipper, and mock pocket flaps.

Pattern Sizing:
The pattern includes sizes 8-20. I made a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I would say so. Except I did leave off the faux pocket flap.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were fine, I didn't have any difficulty with them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the high waist and the flared skirt. I dislike the fact that I've gained weight and the skirt is a wee bit snug and it looks like some quality time on the treadmill might be in my near future. Right now, I'm not feeling that it is the most flattering design for my current figure.

Fabric Used:
Pincord a cotton and rayon blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I lowered the slit on the skirt, adjusted (let out) the width on the front facing (centre front), and shortened the hemline. I also chose to leave the mock pocket flaps off.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would absolutely recommend the pattern. I'm not 100% sure if I would like to sew it again anytime soon.

Mini-Wardrobe Storyboard Planning

Pattern Review is hosting a Mini Wardrobe contest coming up September 1st to 30th. I'm going to give this a whirl. I'm planning out what I would like my mini wardrobe to be within the perimeters of the contest.

• Five piece mini-wardrobe
• Four pieces to be sewn during the month of September
• Fifth piece, "known as the key item" could be something that is already sewn or part of your existing wardrobe.  

There are so many options. Do I include a dress? Skirts? Pants? There are so many options!  

Vogue 8837 will make the mix for sure.  

I was thinking about a vest, Burda 7769, to go with this skirt. Made in a beautiful black silk that I purchased recently it would be an easy transition piece.  

But I'm still on the fence with that idea.  

For a top I've got Burda 7220 on my mind.

The picture didn't pick up the blue very well but it will match the blue in the fabric I chose for the Vogue skirt above.

I will also work with the colour orange.

Vogue 1247 is a true and tested pattern. And I do love the colour orange!

It would work with the Burda shirt and even with the black silk vest if I go that route.

If I don't go with the Burda vest in black silk I would make this Marcy Tilton jacket in a combination of orange and cream knit.

I'm thinking that it will work with the black skirt and the orange skirt.

But is that too much orange? Is there such a thing?

If I do go with the black silk vest I can omit the Marcy Tilton jacket and go with the Lynn Mizono dress that I love.

A black silk vest over the long sleeve lightweight wool might work, no?

Or I can forget about the black silk vest and the Lynn Mizono dress and go with another top made in the black silk.

The hooded shirt, McCall's 5640, was a favourite shirt back in the day. I'm not opposed to revisiting this pattern. I'll have to do some grading up if I revisit this pattern.

Oh my, so many decisions! I'm going to have to pour myself a glass of port for some serious thinking.

Vest or jacket?  Mmm, if only I could make six pieces.

Are you planning a mini-wardrobe for the upcoming season or Pattern Review contest?

Me-Made May: The Third Week

Saturday, May 16th:  (2 me-made items)

Day wear:  Black linen and rayon Lynn Mizono dress Vogue 1410 worn with Buffalo denim jean jacket.  Shoes:  Mephistos.  

Gym gear:  Grey knit exercise pants worn with long-sleeved navy sketcher tee-shirt and white socks.  Shoes:  Keen runners.   

Evening:  Fleece lined knit loungewear Simplicity 2289 worn with knit loungewear pants.   

Sunday, May 17th:  (3 me-made items)

Day wear:  Grey and blue pinstriped wool and cashmere pants OOP Vogue 1325 worn with blue cashmere Lords & Taylor pull-over sweater and black socks.  Shoes:  Franco Sarto black leather ankle boots.  

Gym gear:  Green exercise shorts OOP McCall's 4212 worn with white Olsen tee-shirt and grey socks.  Shoes:  Keen runners.  

Evening:  Grey fleece lined knit loungewear Simplicity 2289 worn with knit loungewear pants and wool socks.

Monday, May 18th:  (1 me-made item)
Day and evening wear:  Blue and black plaid flannel dress (worn as pj's all day) McCall's 6600. I would like to note that it is a holiday here and we woke up to snow--it was a flannel pj wearing kind of day.

Tuesday, May 19th:  (3 me-made items)
Day wear:  Black light-weight wool pants OOP Vogue 1325 worn with black and white polka dot Liz Claiborne shirt, black knee-hi's, cream colour jacket Vogue 1263.  Shoes:  black dress shoes.

Gym gear:  Grey sweatpants, navy Skechers tee-shirt and grey sports socks.  Shoes:  Keen runners.
Evening:  Blue and black plaid flannel dress pajamas McCall's 6600.

Wednesday, May 20th:  (4 me-made items)
Day wear:  Marcy Tilton skirt Vogue 9060 worn with black tee-shirt from Holt Renfrew, cardigan sweater McCall's 6844 and beige spring coat OOP Burda 7304.  Shoes:  Clogs from Browns.

Evening:  Black and blue plaid dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Thursday, May 21st:  (1 me-made item)
Day wear:  Black linen and rayon Lynn Mizono dress Vogue 1312 worn with Mac & Jac linen jacket.  Shoes:  tan wedged shoes.

Evening:  Knit pull-on pj bottoms and Sketcher tee-shirt.

Friday, May 22nd:  (3 me-made items)
Day wear:  Navy Rachel Comey skirt Vogue 1247 worn with white shirt Burda 7136, navy Liz Claiborne cardigan and navy windbreaker.  Shoes:  Red sandals.

Gym gear:  Green shorts OOP McCall's 4212 worn with tee-shirt, white sports socks.  Shoes:  Keen runners.
Evening:  knit shirt and pants.

Saturday, May 23rd:  (1 me-made item)
Day wear:  Orange floral skirt New Look 6106 worn with yellow camisole and short sleeve knit cardigan from Mexx.  Shoes:  Mephistos.

Evening:  Knit pull-on pj bottoms with Sketcher tee-shirt.

Sunday, May 24th:  (3 me-made items)

Day wear:  Green cotton skirt Burda 6766 worn with ivory and pearl cardigan sweater. Shoes:  tan wedged style. Black and ivory knit Marcy Tilton skirt Vogue 9060 worn with black tee-shirt. Shoes: mephistos.

Evening:  Black and blue plaid flannel dress pj's McCall's 6600.

Well, that is what my me-made week looked like--a crazy mix of items just like our weather that started off with snow at the beginning of the week and ending with summer-like temperatures. I wonder what this week will bring.

Happy Sewing!