Easy Breezy Dress

Stash-busting 2015:  Vogue 9625

Is there anything better than an easy breezy pull-over knit dress for the summer. I did try out a McCall's pattern recently but to be completely honest it hasn't been getting much wear. This dress on the other hand, will certainly be different.

The pattern:

Out-of-print Vogue 9625 recently found its way into my pattern stash and I'm so glad that it did! I really like that this is a petite adjustable pattern and that it is rated very easy--added bonus. It really was a quick make. 

I do like the A-line shape to this dress.  I think that I could have gone down a size in the bust area and narrowed the width of the shoulder. The pattern does call for shoulder pads. I didn't answer that call.  

{Source}

I did make some changes besides the omission of the shoulder pads. This pattern is for an above mid-knee length dress. Since I'm conscious of the scar at my knee, I wanted the hem of the dress to cover it. I added another seven inches to the length. Instead of using seam binding to finish the neckline, I used the neckline band from Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8975 pattern. The length of the neckline band piece had to be cut shorter since the neckline on this dress wasn't as deep as Marcy Tilton's pattern. I cut it about two inches shorter and I could have gone a little smaller and stretched the neckline band around the neckline.  

The Fabric:

The pattern calls for a moderate stretch knit and I chose this white and green ponte knit that has been sitting in my stash for quite some time. I typically shy away from rayon fabrics but the print and colour had me thinking otherwise.  

The fabric was pre-washed and took a tumble in the dryer before I cut out the dress. It handled this pre-treatment well. I did find it a challenging fabric to sew and had to take care at the beginning of my seams. I should have used a stitch starter to prevent my machine from struggling with the fabric. Why I didn't think of that while I was sewing it, I don't know. Once I stitched past the beginning of my seams, everything worked well. I stitched the seams with a knit (lightning bolt) stitch.   

The Stats:

Fabric:                 2 metres polyester and rayon ponte knit $13.56 ($12.00 - 50% off + taxes)

Pattern:               OOP Vogue 9625 $0.29

Sewn on:             Janome sewing machine using a walking foot.

Hand stitches:    Hems were all stitched by hand.

Seam finishes:    Janome serger.

Happy Sewing!

 

Peplum Shirt

Stash-busting 2015:  Butterick Peplum Blouse

Many moons ago I spotted this shirt at the mall. It's a Ralph Lauren peplum shirt. It's long gone from the mall landscape (Spring 2014 line), but it still can be found online. When I first spotted it, I thought that it would be perfect for work but I was in the midst of the RTW fast. 

This post is about my own version of the peplum shirt...

The pattern:

Butterick 6097 is the pattern I used which, unlike the Ralph Lauren version, has a pleated peplum. I cut a size fourteen along the shoulders, neckline, armhole and princess seams. The side seams were cut between a size sixteen at the armhole and  eighteen at the waistline. Of course, I had to shorten the sleeves. I didn't make a muslin so I have to say that I'm quite lucky with the fit. I did have to however take in the back across the waistline seam to account for some bagginess above the waistline. It is an adjustment that I will have to keep in mind if I make this shirt again.  

The pattern is well drafted and all the pieces worked together beautifully. The sleeve was a dream to insert. How well everything fit together is my favourite aspect of this pattern. The instructions are well written as well. I did stray a bit regarding the instructions. Instead of hemming the peplum before creating the pleats and attaching it to the bodice piece, I saved the hemming until almost the end. It would have been easier to follow the instructions order but I was unnecessarily concerned if the length would be an issue.   

The pattern does ask for interfacing to be cut for the whole cuff piece which is folded. I cut 1/2 of the cuff pattern piece for the interfacing after seeing the thickness of the front bands. I didn't mind the thickness with the double interfacing in the front band pieces but I felt that it was unnecessary for the cuffs.

I also used the instructions from The Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques by Lynda Maynard to create an embellished collar band. The Ralph Lauren RTW version has a contrasting collar band. My version has a ribbon embellishment. 

I used a narrow basting tape to hold down my ribbon during the placement and sewing process.

The basting tape worked like a charm. It made sewing close to the edge of the ribbon effortless and without concern that the ribbon might slip out of place. I can say that I'm thrilled with how it turned out.  

The fabric:

I found this 100% cotton deep green and burgundy striped fabric in the discount section of my local Fabricland store earlier this year. It was the discounted price and the fact that it's 100% cotton that drew me to the fabric (mostly the discounted price). I have to admit that I really wasn't all that smitten over this fabric when I picked it up but it has grown on me since then. The fabric was pre-shrunk by laundering on the regular cycle, a toss in the dryer for forty minutes and then a good pressing on the cotton setting. The fabric held up well and so did the colour.  

The burgundy buttons were a perfect match and discovered in Mama R's button stash. The threads used were left-overs from another project.  

The Stats:

Fabric:                       2.1 metres 100% cotton $14.24 ($12.00 / metre - 50% off + taxes)

Interfacing:            0.9 metres fusible interfacing $3.05 ($6.00 / metre - 50% off + taxes)

Basting Tape:         0.5 metres $0.55 ($0.98 / metre + taxes)

Ribbon:                     0.5 metres $0.25 ($0.45 / metre + taxes         

Thread:                     Finished off 2 spools of thread 

Buttons:                    9 - 12 mm burgundy coloured shirt buttons $0.00 (recycled)

Pattern:                     Butterick 6097 $10.14 ($17.95 - 50% off + taxes)

Reference Book:       The Dressmaker's Handbook of Courture Sewing Techniques 

Sewn on:                  Janome using a walking foot, buttonhole foot and regular presser foot.  

Hand-stitches:      Slip stitched cuff, front band, and collar band.  Hand-stitched buttons.   

Seam Finish:          The inside seams have been finished with a Janome overlock machine.  

Happy Sewing!  

Phew!

Vogue patterns released their fall line last night and I can say that my wallet is safe. Phew! There is only one pattern that I wouldn't mind making.  

Vogue 9135

It is a lovely unlined jacket with side pockets by Kathryn Brenne. The description says that it has a hook and eye closing but I think I'll change it up with fabric covered snaps. I just have to wait for the online sale and then another four weeks for it to get here by snail mail. I should have my sewing table cleared of all the on-going projects by then.  

I can't believe I'm not tempted by any of the Marcy Tilton patterns.  

Vogue 9130

Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9130 reminds me of many top patterns already sitting in my stash. I love the fabric the sample is made in though.  

Vogue 9140

And even though Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9140 looks very comfortable the pants actually remind me of something I would wear to the gym before I would wear out in the public sphere. I think this is the first time I'm not smitten over any Tilton patterns. And my wallet lets out a sigh of relief.  

Vogue 1464

Sandra Betzina's Vogue 1446 pants pattern seems a wee-bit out-of-place for the fall release, doesn't it? The design reminds me of sailor style pants and styled with the striped tee-shirt I would associate this with a spring line. I did notice that the pant legs are on the narrow side and the waistlines are falling back below the waist. Not a style that works for me. Again, phew!  

There are lots of loose-fitting jackets and no capes. I guess capes have become passé for Fall 2015. Have you checked out the Vogue Fall collection? Any favourites?  

Happy Sewing!  

  

Yellow is Such a Happy Colour!

Stash-busting 2015:  Cardigan Sweater

Mama R has a difficult time finding clothes that fit and cardigan sweaters are no exception. She's petite and often the sleeves are too long or the style is too tight and don't get me started on the quality of fabric found in RTW clothing. A cardigan sweater was a project that I wanted to create.   

The Pattern:

I found two out-of-print patterns for cardigans that are currently in my stash, one is a McCall's and the other a Butterick. I tried the Butterick pattern first.  

OOP Butterick 5760 is a winner for sure. If this pattern comes across your path and you're looking for a cardigan pattern, I would say "get it!" A few minor tweaks after the first fitting and it is perfect. The description on the pattern envelope states it is close-fitting cardigan yet I found an online reviewer who added back darts to their version for an even closer fit. 

I followed the finished measurements on the pattern pieces and considered Mama R's desire for garments that are not too fitted and went from there. The shoulders and armholes are a size 14 cut with the side seams cut as a size 18. It was the perfect easy fitting fit that Mama R likes.  

I shortened the sleeve pattern prior to cutting but I left the cardigan length. After Mama R tried it on I cut the length to the band edge and folded the band and length up an additional inch.  

The fabric:

I found this gorgeous medium weight cotton knit at Northwest Fabrics for a steal. It was on sale for $3.99 / metre but reduced to 99₵ if I purchased the whole bolt. Of course, I bought the whole bolt. Look at it, it is such a happy colour--how could I say no to that deal.  

I did not pre-shrink this fabric because I was using this fabric as a muslin, a bit of laziness and if it shrinks during laundering no biggy--I can whip up another one.  

I finished off the inside of the front bands with yellow grossgrain ribbon. I love the way this looks and I borrowed this design idea from Elie Tahari's designer clothing.

The only other design change was the omission of the front buttons and buttonholes. Mama R requested no closures since she never closes her cardigans.  

The Stats:

Fabrics:                     1.4  metres cotton knit @ $1.57 ($3.99/metre - reduced to .99 + taxes) 

Ribbon:                  2 metres of gross grain ribbon $1.02 (.45/metre + taxes)

Pattern:                     Butterick 5760 $11.27 ($19.95 - 50% off + taxes)

Sewn on:                  Janome 4120 QDC using walking foot and knit stitch for construction and top-stitching. 

Hand-stitching:      Hems were all hand-stitched.  

Seam finish:            Serged on Janome MyLock 234D

Happy Sewing!  

Tried 'n True Pattern

Stash-busting 2015:  New Dress and Jacket for Mama R

The pattern:  

This is Mama R's tried and true (TNT) pattern. Whenever she asks for a new dress, this is the pattern that she requests. Personally, I would be bored if I had a closet full of the same design but she loves it and who am I to judge. Besides, the style does look good on her.  

The design changes for the dress remain the same as the last million (actually, I've lost count) versions of this dress:  

• remove the the centre front seam by cutting on the the fold
• insert a centre back zipper
• grade the raglan sleeve seams down to a size 10, raising the neckline in the front.  
• lengthen the sleeves
• shorten the hemline 
• add front pockets.

This is the first time I made the jacket. The back pleat was removed along with the button and loop closure as per Mama R's request. I cut a straight size 14 and the fit around the shoulders, neckline and body of the jacket were perfect. Of course, I had to shorten the length of the jacket by 3 1/2 inches and the length on the sleeve by one and three-eighths.  

The Fabric:  

The fabric is from my stash. It is a cotton stretch sateen fabric that I picked up at Fabricland this past spring. My plan was to make a jumpsuit (Vogue 9075) until Mama R spotted it. I had three metres when Mama R expressed an interest in it, leading to a search for more. By that time, there was only one metre left on the bolt and I picked that up as well. Together, I had enough fabric to make the dress and jacket.  

I pre-shrunk the fabric by laundering it in the washing machine, a tumble in the dryer, and a good pressing before cutting the fabric. The fabric and colour handled well with these treatments. If you spot this fabric I would highly recommend that you pick some up--it really is lovely fabric.  It handled well during the laundry process and it is a dream to sew.

The Stats:

Fabrics:                     4  metres cotton sateen @ $59.66 ($22.00/metre - 40% off + taxes) 

Interfacing:               1.4 metres fusible interfacing @ $4.75 ($6.00/metre - 50% off + taxes)

Basting Tape:          1.12 metres @ $0.98/metre = $0.00 (birthday gift)

Thread:                     100% cotton thread @ $2.29 ($4.05 - 50% off + taxes) 

Zipper:                       22 inch invisible zipper @ $2.20 ($3.90 - 50% off + taxes)

Pattern:                      Simplicity 2372 (already priced out many moons ago)

Sewn on:                  Janome 4120 QDC using straight stitch for construction and top-stitching. 

Hand-stitching: Slip sttich (blind stitch) strategically stitched along facing and basting the side seams for fitting.  Hems were all hand-stitched.  

Seam finish:            Serged on Janome MyLock 234D

Mama R is happy with her new two-piece summer outfit.  And even though I lost a fabric that I was all smitten over, I'm really pleased that she's happy and the fabric turned into a nice outfit. Win-win! 

Happy Sewing!  

Good Grief!

I accidentally deleted the blog post on Vogue 9091. It was the review for the culottes that I recently made.  

I actually meant to delete a draft that I was working on and I can't figure out if there is a way to retrieve it. Oh well, it has been that kind of day.  

Anyway, these are them. I love how they turned out, they're crazy comfortable. The review on the pattern was a positive one... I can't believe I deleted the post... Jeez!

Happy Sewing!

Happy Canada Day!

To celebrate Canada Day I'm offering a 20% discount on sewing patterns everything over at the etsy shop.

{Source:  Huffington Post}

Just enter discount code CanadaDay2015 when checking out to receive the 20% discount.  Happy Canada Day everyone!  

And Happy Sewing!