Secrets revealed from within my old winter coat....

I'm still studying and prepping before I tackle my winter coat project... but I want to share what I discovered when taking apart my old winter coat. (I'm going to try to utilize some of the lining.)

This is a patch of leather sewn to the inside of the coat's interlining. And talking about interlining, the coat fabric didn't have any interlining, instead it was the lining has a layer of flannel interlining. 

The piece of leather is attached to the flannel interlining and sat between the flannel interlining and the coat fabric.

It was attached with one line of stitching near the upper part of the back. I guess it was for additional warmth or a wind barrier? I'm not sure.

The secret of the leather is hidden behind the lining. I had no idea all these years.

And check this out!  Perfectly good shoulder pads that I can recycle and use in the new winter coat.

Research!

I've been doing some research. I'm getting ready to tackle a big project, a winter coat. I decided on Vintage Vogue pattern 1083.

The fabric is 100% wool that I picked up in the sale section at my local Fabricland. Can you believe that no one snagged this all up? I was almost ready to pick up another metre and a half to make a matching skirt before I channeled my inner self-control. Regular price on the wool was $42.00 (Cdn)/metre, sale price 70% off. Love it when that happens!

The quilted green fabric was in my stash of fabric that I had at home.  I'm going to use it for the lining.

But I'm a wee bit short on the lining fabric. My solution is to use the black lining from my old winter coat for the sleeve lining.

My old winter coat doesn't fit anymore. It is the story of my closet.

I do plan to utilize more than the lining  from my old winter coat. And as I take it apart to utilize the fabric I hope to discover some secrets of coat making.

The wool from my old winter coat, I thought I would use to make a muff!

I'm getting ahead of myself. Right now, I'm in the research stage.

I'm checking out coat related blogs and spending some time with Vogue Sewing reading the chapter "Inner Construction: The Undercover Story" in preparation of this big project.

Have you ever made a winter coat? Any advice? This will be my first coat ever, well except for McCall's 2465 which really doesn't compare. I would love to hear your coat stories.

Sencha revised...

Sencha Blouse Front

This afternoon I finished the Colette Sencha blouse.  It was the last project that I had cut and ready to go from the July line-up.

Taking into account the fitting issues I had with the last Colette pattern I sewed with, I decided to trim the blouse pieces down to a size 10. At this size the bodice fit well at the bust and shoulder seams. I'm generously proportioned in the mid-hip section so it didn't leave much room to include the tucks from the bodice hem. I'm okay with that, and I'm happy with the revised fit the way it is.

Buttons! Sencha called for five buttons down the centre back opening.

I was considering digging through my button drawer to see what bright coloured buttons I could find to go with the print.





And this is what I came up with. Can you guess what I chose?

The buttons that I finally chose were not bright at all!  They were the frosted pink ones.

I had two sizes and much to my surprise I was drawn to the larger buttons.

Nothing at all what I thought I would pick. Sometimes I surprise myself.

William's suggestion of self-covered buttons would have been really nice too. I can always change them up if I get bored with the frosted pink ones.

Sencha

Today is the day that I am tackling another Colette pattern, Sencha.

I did a poor job figuring out my size when I made Crepe. It had me very sad at the time because I think it is a beautiful dress. One of those my bad moments when I didn't make a muslin first. I do want to try it again and correct my ways, but that is for another day.

This is the fabric that I chose. It is 100% polyester but I fell in love with the print and the bright colours.

I seem to be drawn to anything that has yellow in it even though I'm scared to wear the colour.  I really must get over that. A little bit of yellow at a time is okay.

I re-cut the pattern to fit my bust measurement.  And I am happy to report that it does fit nicely at the shoulders and bust.

I'm making version B and I like the tucks coming down from the front neckline.

The sides are basted and I tried it on before committing to the side seams and seam finish. The blouses falls softly over my hips and I think I will omit the tucks from the bottom hem. I happy with the way it works without them.

I think the reader who commented about Colette's hip measurements being a bit on the smaller size was right. I don't have enough room to include the lower tucks in the front and back bodice pieces if I did want them. It is all good, I'm happy with the way the blouse it working out and fits regardless.

I have to say I do love the back button closure, it reminds me of a vintage style blouse. I'm going to have to find fun and colourful buttons for this one. But first, some lunch and then back to sewing.

Hope you're having a fun sewing day too!       

Butterick 5561

I have to say that I would highly recommend Butterick 5561. You wouldn't believe how easy it is to put together. I was able to put it together in an afternoon, despite sitting in my pile of waiting to be sewn projects for weeks now.

I first made a top using this pattern for Mama R a couple of months ago. And as I put it together the more I wanted to sew one for myself.






And so I did. I chose an embroidered 100% cotton and version B.

The top has a deep front pleat and soft gathers at the centre front neckline seam. Version B has a turn-back collar cut on the bias.












The raglan sleeves have shoulder darts and pleats. I think they have a nice shape and they are very comfortable.

The easy fitting raglan sleeve make this pattern a good project for a beginner. Great practice for darts, easily achieved with straight stitching.  


I wouldn't mind making another, maybe with a three-quarter sleeve. Hmm, wonder what fabric I have hiding in my stash?      

Front view

Back view

Vintage Vogue Pattern Give-away Winner...

The winner of the Vintage Vogue pattern give-away is (drum roll)... Debi.  I swear, it wasn't fixed!  Congrats, I can't wait to see what fabric you chose and the complete garments.

True Random Number GeneratorMin: Max: Result:1Powered by RANDOM.ORG

Can it be saved?

This is one of my all-time-favourite blouse patterns. It is an Anne Klein design from Vogue patterns, Vogue 2789.

I made View A a few years back.  It is a semi-fitted blouse with pin tucks on the bodice front below the bust line which continue on the bodice back.

The fitted sleeve has pleats from the ties.

I even made fabric covered buttons to match.

I made this blouse in a 100% white cotton with a black print. The print has shoes which I think are cute.

Sadly, I haven't worn it in years and I can't bring myself to give it away.

I would like to blame it on the shrinking the 100% cotton but that would be a lie. And if anyone knows me knows that one of my golden rules is to always pre-shrink your fabric.

So the truth is I've gained more than a few pounds. And now the blouse, in the fabric that I think is too cute, doesn't fit.  

Yeah, that horizontal pulling should not be there. Not pretty, is it?

So here is the plan, I'm going to try to rescue the blouse from a pile of neglected clothes that no longer fit.

Okay, maybe I'm in denial about how much weight I gained over the years but I've gotta try something short of exercising. I jest about the exercise.  Maybe later.



I think I going to remove all 26 of those pin tucks.

I hope it will eliminate the horizontal pulling that occurs around my explosive mid-section.

No, I don't think that will be enough.  But I think letting out the two side seams and the centre back seam might help?

Am I delusional? I hope not. I'm going to spend some quality time outdoors with my blouse and seam ripper and see if I can make it work.  

Have I mentioned I love Tim Gunn's catch phrase?  

Several hours later... 

The verdict is in. Apparently, I was delusional.

But I refuse to give up and this means that I will have to take drastic measures.

And I did.

With my seam ripper still hot in hands I get to work on the side seams and open them up to the underarm seam.

I'm thinking insert. If I still have some of this fabric left over I am unsure where it would be found. My second choice is to use black or white fabric.

Black won the coin toss!






I have a lightweight 100% cotton with diagonal pin tucking that I think will work out fine.







I measured out a triangular shape that will fit into the opening, trim off the excess, and try it on. It works!

And that is the story of how I saved my favourite blouse.