Saturday, 19 April 2014

Peplum Top

Stash busting 2014:  There's a New Peplum on the Block

Fabric:     1.4 metres of a 100% cotton print.

Zipper:     22" invisible zipper

Pattern:    Vogue 8936

Basting Tape:  44" length

Bias Tape:  .5 metre

Despite the epic failure of the first peplum top that I made (I still can't believe that Vogue 8815 was voted a Best Pattern by Pattern Review), I decided to give another Vogue peplum pattern a try.

Vogue 8936
This time I made one with princess seams using Vogue 8936

The fabric was a piece that I had in my scrap stash. I used it to make a Marcy Tilton Top/Jacket a couple of years ago. It is a 100% cotton fabric that I picked up at the now close Fabric Centre. Gosh, I miss that place. I'm happy that there was enough fabric to make this top.

The pattern, Vogue 8936, is quite lovely with the way the peplum is cut. I like the princess seams in the front, drape and shape of the peplum and the top-stitching is a nice finish.

I did not like the shape of the neckline and I did re-shape it in the front. I also left out the bodice lining and opted to finish the neckline edge with some black bias tape.


The sewing machine gave me some issues and I stopped mid-sewing to clean the machine after changing the needle and adjusting the tension did not seem to work. The stitching has been off-and-on  since I made the wrap dress. It might be time to take it in for a tune-up? I guess I'll see if the latest cleaning makes a lasting difference. It did make a brief difference and I was able to finish the garment without changing sewing machines.


Back to the pattern, I will agree with Sewmanja that the pattern does run large. For me, it was in the bodice side seams that I had issues. I found that I was running back to the sewing machine and taking in the sides a wee bit more. I started at a size 14, my usual size, and graded up to a larger size at the waist. I'm happy with the new waistline as I do not like things tight fitting. But the side seams above the waist was in some immediate alterations and needed to be taken in (much smaller than my usual size 14 measurements).

I also did the order of things differently when piecing together this project. The instructions suggest sewing the side seams of the bodice first and then the side seams of the peplum before attaching the bodice and peplum pieces together. I didn't do this because I wanted my centre back seam open to sew my invisible zipper.  I sewed the peplum piece to the bodice pieces before sewing the side seams. Then I sewed the invisible zipper and then sewed the side seams.

There seems to be an error in the pattern instructions. Along the sleeve cap it suggests ease stitching between the markings. I found that this was not enough and ripped out that stitching and replaced it with stitching between the notches. It must have been a typo?


All-in-all (now that it is done), I'm happy with all the tweaks and final results.

Happy Sewing!
   

10 comments:

  1. Your new peplum top looks terrific on your dress form . Are you happier with this version ? I think peplums are tricky to wear. I only have one. An old simplicity button up shirt which I love and really want to sew again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm am thrilled with this pattern, the princess seams on the bodice give it a nice shape and the pattern comes in cup sizing too. I would recommend this one over 8815.

      Delete
  2. I like this -- can't wait to see it on you!

    ReplyDelete
  3. So lovely in that interesting fabric.

    ReplyDelete

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