April in Review...

Center for Pattern Design, CB Spiral Blouse

Vogue 8839

Vogue 8637

McCall's 2447

Vogue 1247

Burda 7255

There was quite a bit of sewing done this month. Most of my projects were part of the Pattern Review pattern stash contest. How perfect was that! Just the push I needed. I didn't pattern stash bust the most in the contest but I'm thrilled with what I managed to accomplish and in awe the number of items others had managed to accomplish during the contest. 

Sew far this year, I managed to stash-bust a total of:

• 45.61 metres of fabric, 
• 15 previously unused patterns, 
• 4.6 metres of trim, 
• 4 zippers, 
• 12 spools of thread, 
• 3 sewing machine needles, 
• 7 snaps,
• 44 buttons and
• 2.8 metres of elastic.

And this this year I've added to my stash:

• 37.4 metres of new fabric, 
• 7 Vogue patterns,
• 1 Simplicity pattern,
• 1 metre of trim,
• 7 spools of thread
• 2 sewing machine needles,
• 6 buttons
• 2 new sewing feet
• 4 metres of elastic.  

Happy Sewing!  

It's a Mad Mad World, Man!

Stash busting 2013:  The Retro Blouse, Project #20

Fabric Used:       1.60 metres of 100% cotton sateen and 1 metre of interfacing.

Buttons Used:     Six frosted pink buttons

Pattern Used:      Burda Style 7255, I've had this pattern since last year.

*****

First, I'm apologizing for the gawd awful photo. I look like death and a bad hair day all rolled into one. Don't worry, I'm not fishing for compliments, I feel that way too. I'm just going with it.

Now that we have that out of the way, I have to tell you that this pattern has sat in my stash teasing me. I love the illustrations on the front of the pattern envelope but I questioned if I wanted to makes something that seemed a bit trendy with all the whoopla over Mad Men fashions. It is just not my style. But the illustrations were so damn cute. Yeah, I don't understand why I bought the pattern either.  

Moving along, I saw Debi's version recently and it was the push that I needed to re-consider this pattern. Her post has links to other versions of this blouse as well. 

"This might work," I thought to myself. 

I do love the curved collar that Debi described. It sounded like the one that worked well on the Center of Pattern Design Spiral Top and this pattern has the same style of collar.

"What the heck, why not give it a try," I thought to myself as I scanned the piles of fabric in my stash.  

Inspired by Rike's version, I knew I wanted a print. And do I have the perfect fabric. It is floral (check me out, I'll be on trend this spring!) and better yet it is a screen print fabric with soil and stain repellent finish. This is perfect! If I spill my coffee (wine, dinner, fill in whatever), I won't have to whip out my Tide stick stain remover. Gawd, I love this fabric.

I found it in the home decor section of my local fabric store. I know, I've been shopping in that section of the store a lot lately but it seems like the only place that you can find natural fabrics with fabulous prints. And I do love this print, much too fabulous to be fading in the sun somewhere as curtains.

Now lets talk about this blouse. Oh my goodness, I don't know why I didn't make this sooner! I think the tucks and pleat detail in the back are the cat's meow.  Debi is right, the sizing is spot on. I can't believe that I ended up with three-quarter length sleeves and I didn't even alter the sleeve pattern. The elbow dart is in the perfect spot too. The shoulders fit perfectly, I don't know what I could ask for besides... I could use a little more ease around my belly area or I could do some sit-ups when my back and neck heal up. Otherwise, this pattern is perfect. Despite that, I did lengthen the blouse a few inches.

The buttons have been in my stash for a few years. I'm not a frilly pink-lovin' kind of gal but I thought these buttons worked. It was a toss up between an ivory floral shape or an opaque button. The floral shaped button gave the blouse a homemade feel, not the look I was going for. And the opaque button was nice but just seemed too large on the cut of the blouse. Sew, the pink buttons won out. I think I can live with this colour choice. Besides, I really don't want to shop for more buttons.

That's how I ended up with a floral pink buttoned blouse. This pattern will go down as the most unexpected favourite from my pattern stash.

Happy Sewing!

Happy Anniversary!

It is not my anniversary, it is the 100th anniversary of the Hookless Fastener!

It doesn't sound as exciting as saying Happy Anniversary to the zipper!

A hundred years! Did you know that the zipper did not gain popularity until the 1930s?  

There is a fun article all about it over here.

Happy Sewing!

Ready for Spring! (And Mocking those French Seams)

Stash Busting 2013:  The Angel Shirt, Project #19 

Fabric Used:     2.6 metres of 100% Cotton and 1 metre of fusible interfacing.  

Pattern Used:   Vogue 1274, circa 2011

Thread Used:    I finished off one spool of 100% cotton thread.

Buttons Used:   Nine 1/2" buttons

*****

I purchased this fabric back in 2012 when an Ikea location opened in the city. I thought the print was whimsical and fun, sew in the cart it went! When I picked it up I thought it might make a dress for the summer but as you can see plans change.  

The fabric is softer than quilting cotton found in the fabric store. I'm quite pleased with the weight and drape.  

The pattern has been in my stash a wee bit longer. I love this pattern! It was fun to sew and I like having an item that I likely won't see anyone else wear around town. But you never know, I think Ikea still has this fabric in stock.   

I do question the "easy" rating that Vogue patterns gave the pattern. Vogue 8791 was also rated easy but these two patterns are quite different in the techniques used to construct each top.  

It is not that some of the sewing techniques are difficult, rather they're time consuming. In the end, it is worth all the work. Vogue 1274 is constructed with French seams and in the general sewing information there are French seam instructions that are well-written. 

Sadly, these did not apply to the armhole. The instructions said to construct this as a French seam but I found it didn't quite work as when I did it on a straight seam. 


Easing the sleeve cap to fit the armhole made everything work out smoothly. My next option was then to do a mock french seam (more work) or the much easier option, serge the seam edge. I will admit that I was on the fence with how I would proceed with this step. 

Mock French seams along the armhole was my final decision. Yes, it was more work but considering all the work I put into the shirt with the French seams I didn't want to cut corners now.  

This Vogue shirt did end up feeling a wee bit long for my five-one frame. I cut the front and back two inches and kept the sides the same length. I am quite pleased with this adjusted length. I did not adjust the sleeve length. Instead, the three-quarter length sleeves described on the pattern envelope, they worked out to be long sleeves on my version. 

And the buttons. I purchased them at Courage My Love, one of my favourite Vintage stores in Toronto. The have a crazy (in a wonderfully delightful way) selection of buttons. It would be a good guess that these buttons have been in my stash for about a decade.     

I'm glad these were saved until now for this shirt. I love that the square buttons echo the corners found in the hem of the shirt and sleeve edges. And you can't quite see it but there is specs of green found in half of the button. 

Have you ever held onto buttons until the perfect pattern or fabric came along?  

Happy Sewing!  

New Curtains

Stash Busting 2013:  Project #18 

Fabric Used:     2.0 metres of drapery fabric.  

*****

This project was first mentioned here and completed over a week ago. I think I actually finished these before I completed my brother's shirt. I just didn't have a photo to post until now.  

These are new curtains for Mama R. We found this fabric at Fabricland last year and I should have had this done months ago. 

The curtains came to be through a joint production. Mama R did the measuring and basting and then it ended up on my sewing table to be stitched. I guess that was her way of a gentle nudge.  

And there was no new thread purchased for this project. I had a perfect match to stash-bust from my stash. The perfectly matched thread left over from this dress project. 

Mama R is thrilled with them because they block out much of the light in the early morning. I'm just thrilled that she's thrilled.  

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

I'm going to start off this post with some good news before I follow with my intended post on an issue that has been in the news.

First, have you seen the new Vogue summer patterns? Go check them out, they are on sale right now!

Vogue 1357

There are some cute styles, I love the longer lengths on the dresses and skirts even though I can't pull off the look as gracefully as the models.

What I love the most is that Vogue patterns have the best poses for these patterns. Thank you Vogue! I appreciate seeing the models standing to show a side, back and front view.  It is something that I find helpful when trying to decide on a pattern. I can't tell you how thrilled I was to see that!

In other sewing news, I miss sewing. I hurt my neck this week at work when I was moving a large mat in the gym and two kids jumped on it. It was not a good experience. Trips to the chiropractor, doctor and pharmacy were not my idea of a good time and all that kept me from sewing.

Instead, I've been icing my back and neck, popping pain meds and watching the news channel talk about the sewing factory collapse in India. It is heart breaking to say the least. Words can not explain how painful it is to watch the news coverage, again. Is it me or does it seem that there are a lot of fires or building collapses in that part of the world's garment industry?

Some people in the media are blaming the shopping attitudes of North America for the tragedies that have been occurring in the East surrounding the billion dollar garment industry. North Americans, they argue, want cheap fashions forcing India and China to compete with cheap labour. Then there is another segment that blames the owners of the factory that ordered the workers back to work even though the building was deemed unsafe. Everyone is blaming everyone! But no one is offering any solutions. Some people want to boycott Joe Fresh one of the Canadian garment lines whose labels were found at the collapse building site. Where others are pleading with North American shoppers to not boycott the garment manufactures because they bring much needed work to the region.

Tonight on the local news station they asked a poll question and when I went to check the result, it made me even more sad.

CTV Winnipeg Web Poll - April 26, 2013

Would you pay extra to buy clothes made in fair trade factories?

Yes		177	(53 %)
No		154	(47 %)

Total number of votes: 331

I would have thought that the "yes" response would have been much higher considering the heart-breaking images that have been on the news. But I don't know why I am surprised. As a person who sews, I am often asked to sew for others who are ignorant of the time and work that goes into sewing something because they have been conditioned to paying such low prices. Of course consumers are often getting low quality as many fast fashions are simplified in style and technique.

{Source}

I am often saddened when "home economics" classes were taken to a new direction since I was in junior and high school.

It seems that if a school offers home economics now-a-days the sewing component of home economic classes is pushed to the sidelines as cooking and finances take centre stage. I don't feel that one component is more important than the other rather they are equally important.

I often wonder if there was a greater focus on the sewing component of home economics maybe, just maybe we could educate a future consumer that has an appreciation for the work and skill that goes into creating a garment. Sewing a garment is not just about making something, it is also involves math and communication skills and lessons on aesthetics and ethics.

Even if a student does not continue onto a career that involves sewing or sews their own wardrobe, they would develop skills to help them make more ethical and informed consumer decisions about quality fashion and the work involved in creating such items.

I wonder if the lack of sewing skills currently taught in school contribute to the callous way we think about fashion. This is such a complicated issue. What can we as consumers do? How can consumers be sure that the products they purchase are ethically made in safe working conditions? There are so many questions that arise in yet another tragedy. I pray for those who have lost their lives and who are exploited in horrified working conditions and that cultural attitudes towards fast-fashion change. There has been way too many deaths and injuries in the name of cheap fashion, way too many.

Mock French Seams

Well, Vogue 1274 is coming along nicely. I'm a little further along than in the photo. The collar and facings are in place. And the sleeves are pieced together.

I'm just puzzled at #21 of the instructions, "[s]titch sleeve to armhole edge in a French seam." It sounds simple enough except when I pin the sleeve to the shirt it is not working out as simply stated in the instructions.

The pieces fit to perfectly between the notches at the under sleeve portion. It is where the curve over the shoulder is found that is proving to be a challenge.

Sew, mock French seams it will be. I could serge the edges after I ease and stitch the sleeve in place. But I really would like to continue with the French seam or in this case a mock French seam.

I've been surfin' the web and checking out my go-to reference sewing books and I noticed something interesting. Have you noticed that all the references to mock French seams list this finish as a good alternative to French seams on a curved edge but all illustrations and photographs on how to do a mock French seam is done on a straight edged sample? If there is a sample of a mock French seam done on a  actual curved edge, I didn't come across it. I got a chuckle from that little fun fact.

Anyway, I'm off to bed. Until tomorrow, Happy Sewing!

The Angel Shirt

I am currently working on another Lynn Mizono design, the Angel Shirt.

Vogue came out with a pattern for this shirt in 2011, Vogue 1274. And I have no reasonable reason why it has taken so long to get this project started.

I'm using a 100% cotton fabric that I found at Ikea. I adore the whimsical print. I think this will be a fun shirt for spring!

I was surprised to find the shirt has stitched French seams. I haven't sewn a garment with French seams in years! I forgot how easy it they are to sew. My serger is getting a break with this project and I'm throughly enjoying the change in pace.  

With wrong sides together stitch 1/4" away from the edge.  Trim and press the seam.  Don't skip the pressing part!
You want a nicely pressed edge for when you turn it over to match right sides together.  

With right sides together stitch 3/8" from the edge encasing the raw edges.
Press again and there you have it a French seam!  

The sleeves and armhole seam are also finished with French seams. There is no fear with this area since the armhole is deep, it shouldn't be difficult at all.

But I did notice in my Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing book, my go-to reference book, that there is a mock French seam for curved edges.

With right sides of fabric together, stitch on the seamline.  Trim seam allowances to 1/2", press, matching folds along the edge.  Stitch these folded edges together.  Press seam to one side (150).

Not that I'm going to try it on this Vogue pattern. I thought it was another interesting self-finished seam.

Well, I have quite a few French seams to finish before I reach the armhole seams. I should get back to work.

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

I don't know what I was thinking a few months ago when I thought I could go on a fabric fast. Let's just say that little resolution didn't even make it the the half year point.

Now that I got that little confession off my chest, do you want to see what I picked up at the fabric store today?

It is a 100% polyester fabric that I stumbled across in the upholstery/home decor section of the store. I thought it would make a fun spring coat!

I have Burda 7304 in mind for this fabric. It is an unlined coat and I'm planning on finishing it off with a Hong Kong seam finish. I recently picked up a binder foot for my sewing machine sew this will be a good opportunity to put it to work.

The plan is to have it done before all the snow melts. And if I can get this done before the end of the month it will also count for the pattern stash contest. I've had this pattern on my I-want-to-make pile for quite some time.  

I have a few other projects and tasks to get out of the way before I tackle this project.

There is that repair to the silk vestment for the parish priest. This one also have my stomach in knots as it is another beautiful garment that his mother had made for him. It is the same issue, strain on the neckline/shoulder area that has caused it to tear. I've been trying to figure the best way to finish off the seam. I picked up a package of blanket binding that I figure I could cut down the width and make it, hopefully, work. We'll see how that works out [fingers crossed].

And there is another shirt cut out for my brother. Another long sleeve shirt that I hope not to make the same error. I still can't believe I did that! And then there is that sweater Mama R has been waiting for me to alter.

Sew much to sew! How about you?

Happy Sewing!

It Wasn't Meant to Be...

Stash Busting 2013:  Project #17

Fabric Used:     3.10 metres of 100% cotton.

Pattern Used:    McCall's 2447, circa 1999.

Buttons Used:    7 rustic brown buttons. 

*****

Okay, it doesn't look finished here but it is finished. I just have to give it a good pressing.

This project sat on my sewing table while I procrastinated. I moved on this project with a pair of scissors, cutting the long sleeves into a short sleeve. It wasn't meant to be a long-sleeve shirt. Luckily it looks good as a short sleeve version.

This is the second version of this shirt. The first version can be seen here.

The pattern is perfect, it all fits together quite nicely. I'm still questioning the 5/8" seam allowance around the neckline and collar pieces.  Grading the seam allowances took care of any bulk.

As far as stash-busting, this fabric is a fairly recent addition to my stash. I picked it up late last year with this project in mind.

The buttons are another story. They have been in my stash for years. They might have been in my stash to be considered vintage. I can't recall what project I had in mind for these when I bought them.

For a project that involved a major goof, I'm happy it turned out. Fingers crossed that my brother feels the same.

Happy Sewing!

Keep Calm and Sew On...

Well, I am over the initial shock of my great error.

I've decided to "keep calm and sew on" and picked up where I left left off. The thought of taking the seam ripper to the serged edges, armhole seam and side seams just made me feel sad. The shirt laid on the sewing table waiting for me to correct the error of my ways. Waiting...

Today I shared my great error with my brother. Bless his heart, he tried to convince me that it didn't look so bad. And then he gave me permission to do something drastic.

The long sleeve shirt is now going to become a short sleeve shirt. Yup, those perfect plackets are about to be chopped off. And I'm okay with that as long as my little brother is too.

Well, back to the sewing table.

Happy Sewing!    

Jumping on the bandwagon

Me-Made May 2013 is fast approaching and I'm jumping on the bandwagon.

I can go ahead and pledge to wear something that I created, everyday of the month, but I basically do that now. It really wouldn't be much a challenge. I will continue to wear my makes during the month of May but as Zoe put it I'm going to "up the ante."

I, Graca from Sew Essentially Sew, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '13. I endeavour to wear my creations each day for the duration of May 2013 (the easy part), photograph my outfits (the hard part) possibly laid out on the floor since that self-timer feature on my camera is enough to drive a gal batty and finish the UFOs that have been sitting in my sewing drawer by the end of Me-Made-May 2013 (the challenging part).

Okay, that's all I got.

Happy Sewing!

Make Do & Mend

Make Do and Mend:  Project # 2

My mending pile is getting out of hand. Boy, I wish I lived in San Francisco sew I could take advantage of the free mending library.

Right now I have thirteen items to mend and alter not including the vestment for the parish priest. Yikes, I don't know how that managed to grow that big.

Since I had an epic fail day sewing yesterday, I thought it might be a good time to tackle some mending projects.

Make Do & Mend project # 2 is a ready-to-wear cotton plaid shirt.

I thought this shirt was pretty cool back in the day. It ended up in the mending pile because I felt the puffed sleeves looked dated.

I removed the topstitching, then the stitching and cut away at the serged edge. I re-serged the edge and did a narrow hem on the sewing machine.  Done.

When Choosing Fabric...

I messed up today in my sewing.

Not totally, I sewed perfect plackets for the sleeves of the McCall's 2447 men's shirt.

And then I messed up when I went to sew the sleeve in the armhole opening. I didn't realize the errors of my ways as I took down the pressing ham and steam pressed the seam.

And then, I didn't realized the errors of my ways as I serged the armhole seam edges. I didn't even realize the errors of my ways when I pinned, sewed and serged the side and arm seams closed.

And then, I only realized the errors of my ways when I turned the sleeve over and went to admire the placket sitting at the lower edge of the sleeve as it hung on the form.

Goodness gracious!

How did I make such a horrible error? Was it the lack of sleep I got last night? Did I not have enough coffee before I started sewing this afternoon? I could blame it on the fabric that looks the same on both sides but I couldn't really get away with such a poor excuse with those blue chalk markings? Could I? I didn't think sew...

Now where is that seam ripper?

Reasons Why I Sew: Reason # 6

{Source}

Quite simply for the challenge.

Yes, it would be easier to run into a store and purchase a ready-to-wear item but where is the challenge in that?

I love the challenge involved in working on a new pattern or sewing technique and problem solving to make it work.

It is quite simply "where the magic happens."

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

Did you see the latest issue of Threads?

It is the "Best of Threads Fitting!" I've only had this magazine in my hot little hands less than a day but I'm giddy beyond belief with an article on the "Best-fitting Pants--EVER!"

It shows you how to draft your own pant pattern using your measurements. A well-fitting pair of pants has been a challenge in the past. It would be nice to master that sewing challenge.

And there are other articles and tips too. I haven't been this excited about a sewing magazine issue ever.

Well, onto other sewing news...

My brother's shirt is still sitting on my sewing table. At my sewing machine is a pair of curtains for Mama R. How did I manage to have a pair of curtains at my sewing machine after this post? Oh yeah, family.  There is another set of curtains that she wants after I finish the set sitting at my sewing machine.

Anyway, there is lots of work to be done, sew I better get cracking if I want to find some time to read more pages of Threads...

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Humour

I, just like Kelli over at TrueBias (and so many others), have a rule NOT to sew for someone who asks. Of course, there are exceptions to the rule. You better be related to me or I owe you some huge favour. But that is where I draw the line.

This afternoon in the staff room a colleague asks the two other people present if they know of anyone who sews. Everyone I work with knows I sew. I have to admit I did have a inner chuckle at that silly little scenario.

My response was quick, "I sew but I don't sew for others." And wanting to be helpful and not dismissive, I added my recommendations for tailor shops in the neighbourhood. One of which I've heard good things about was known to the person asking. She agreed that it was a good tailor shop.

I didn't offer my services well because I passionately dislike sewing for others even though I love sewing. Sewing for others is up there on my "passionately dislike list" with mending and ironing.

I have yet to meet an non-sewer who truly has an appreciation for the time, effort and expense that goes into sewing tasks.

That said, I don't have an aversion to teaching someone how to sew, suggesting books or sharing tips or suggestions to complete a task on their own.

My experience is that often people don't want to learn or do what they wrongly tend to perceive as simple tasks, let alone pay a fair rate charged by tailor shops.

Whenever someone asks about sewing it is because they are trying to cut costs.

I can't say that I'm surprised, I do live in Winnipeg with a reputation for being frugal cheap. It is the reason why Wal-mart and Forever 21 stores do booming business here and Fabricland can get away with selling fabric listed as "unknown content" in the "bargain centre." A lot of people here are all about scoring the next great bargain.  

Sew, I was taken aback when someone was looking for someone to sew a curtain.  Yeah, a curtain! One that hangs on a curtain rod to cover a bookshelf. You can pick up a curtain in this town cheap at a number of places, why would you look for someone to sew one? And why hide books?

Sometimes people ask for the silliest things, don't they?

The silliest things.

Happy Sewing!