Tuesday, 26 February 2013

My Greatest Sewing Challenge?

My greatest sewing challenge would be creating a well fitting pair of pants. A pair of pants that has a tailored look and no elastic waist.

Armed with Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers' Classic Tailoring Techniques:  A Construction Guide for Women's Wear, I'm almost ready. I think I'm almost ready to tackle this challenge.

The last pair of pants that I made I used an Issey Miyake pattern. In general, despite the fitting issues, I did like the pattern. I am quite smitten with that curved waistband. If it just sat a wee bit higher in the front and if I didn't have hips, it would be perfect.
Vogue 1325

A sales lady at my local fabric store tried to convince me that Burda patterns make the best fitting pants patterns. I'm torn on whether or not that is true. Any opinions?

I do not have a great deal of experience sewing pants or sewing with Burda patterns. I haven't had the greatest fit with Burda patterns with the items that I've made in the past. I tend to stick with Vogue patterns because I like the fit. But I tend to sewing mostly dresses, shirts and skirts. I've only sewn two pant patterns; a Claude Montana pattern back in the 1980s and the Issey Miyake pattern this past summer.

This time around I am going to work with an Anne Klein pattern, Vogue 1325. I chose this pattern because I like where the waistline sits on the pants. A semi-fitted, slightly fitted flared pants pattern that has a raised waist. Maybe it will make my short legs look elongated?

Vogue 1325

Cabrera's Classic Tailoring Techniques will help with addressing some of my fitting issues:

  1. I've been blessed with womanly hips and commercial patterns tend to be too tight across the hips. Evident in the Issey Miyake pants that I made. 
  2. A smaller waist compared to my hips. 
  3. I do not have a flat back side like those Vogue pattern models.  Seriously, when are they going to use more women with real curves to model their pants? And could they model a pair of pants with a waistband?   
  4. One hip is higher than the other.  
  5. Protuding stomach. What can I say, I like my sweets more than I like to exercise. 
  6. One leg that is shorter than the other.   
Vogue 1003
No wonder I have fitting issues! This time I'm going to sew a muslin since I decided to ignore the sales lady's advice to purchase the fitting shell pattern. Do I really need a fitting shell pattern? Well, I still have some reading and research to do before I crack open this pattern. Never mind the fact that I have to return the book to the library next week. Maybe next month, I can get started on this project after I clear off all the sewing already on my sewing table.

Have you found a pant pattern that you recommend? Any advice? And what about the Burda vs. Vogue debate? Do you know the difference that these pattern companies offer?  

Happy Sewing!  


1 comment:

  1. I can't really answer any of your questions, but just want to wish you good luck. I'm currently trying to work out some fitting issues on a pair of knit pants. Really, the me-made pair of pants that fit me best was a pair that I self drafted. It took a lot of muslining, but I got a good fit and loved those pants. They have moved on to a friend, though, since I'm no longer that size. They had a high waist like your vogue pattern above, a feature I am partial to wearing. Good luck!!

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