October in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Top row, L to R:  yellow French cotton scoliosis undershirt (OOP Kwik Sew 2899), grey merino wool sweater set (toaster sweater by Sew House Seven and skirt OOP Butterick 5790), four reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851).  Bottom row:  black cotton knit pullover top (OOP Simplicity 2372), oversized black merino wool toaster sweater (Sew House Seven), yellow French terry pullover hoodie (OOP Butterick 5790).  

I made it back to the sewing machine this month and actually got to some projects I've wanted to get done for quite some time.  Grocery bags disappeared over the summer during the apple harvest.  It was time to replenish those bags that went missing.  Two items (black t-shirt and yellow hoodie) were gifted.  

One of my flannel pajama bottoms made it to the work table for repairs.  It might be time to start planning on sewing another pair as I've been fixing holes.  Sadly, the flannel fabric on these three-year old pajamas did not hold up well.   Refashioning wise, there were curtains and a tea towel that were used for the reusable grocery bags.  

Stash busting

Stash -busted this month:

• 8 metres fabric
• 2 sewing labels
• 1 meter elastic
• 0.4 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape
• 1 yoga band
• 1 metre of trim

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 73.5 metres fabric + scrap pieces patch-worked together to create new fabric yardages.
• 15.4 metres elastic
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2.4 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 7 metres trim
• 10 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 leather toggles
• 4.3 metres basting tape
• 5 spools of thread
• 1 yoga band

Total additions this year (nothing added this month):  

• 5 leather toggles
• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 second hand cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

Creating Scoliosis Undergarments: OOP Kwik Sew 2899

There are very few sewing patterns out there for those of us that have mobility issues.  Forget finding a sewing pattern or guidance on fitting a garment for those with scoliosis even though it is estimated that scoliosis affects two to three percent of the world's population.  ~sigh~  It is moments like these that I'm thankful for the skills, equipment and fabric stash to sew my own clothes.  So, I set to work on the next project to hit my worktable.  

This is an undershirt to be worn under my scoliosis back brace.  I made some modifications to out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 2899 to help protect my underarms while working and wearing the brace.  The brace has been leaving abrasion wounds in my underarm region that take four to seven days to heal before I can even consider strapping the brace back on.  And that is with wearing a body sock that I was given to wear with the brace.  

These are photos of the brace I wear with the seamless torso body sock.  I've search online and there are other options out there.  

This one with the underarm flaps was interesting and could possibly provide the coverage I need.  But I wasn't 100% certain that it would work, I wanted sleeves.  However, I did steal some inspiration from this top.  

I added an extra layer of fabric in the underarm region.  I also stitch the seam allowances on the outside around the sleeves and sides of the top.  The shoulder seams and neck binding were sewn right sides together.  The hems were serged and left as is since this is an under the brace garment.  

OOP Kwik Sew 2899 is designed for heavyweight stretch fabrics such as heavy fleece or sweatshirt fleece.  This top is sewn in a lighter fabric, a medium weight cotton French terry.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Kwik Sew 2899 is a well drafted pattern.  It is the first one that I have sewn that calls for 1/4" seams and is designed as a "kwik serge" pattern.  It has dual instructions for serger (overlock) and standard sewing machines.  

I think this might work out.  I guess I won't know until I wear it to do some yardwork, that will be the final test on how well it protects my underarms.  Right now, around the house, it's comfortable while wearing it under the brace.  

Project details

Seams:  Serged

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres French terry

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 2899, view B

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, marker, ruler, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, mini vacuum and lint brush.  

Happy Sewing!

Merino Wool Pullover Sweater: Sew House Seven's Toaster Sweater / An Oversized Version

This toaster sweater is part of a set, it's meant to be worn with a recently made matching skirt.

First, let's talk about the sweater.  Oh my goodness, it's cozy and oversized and just what I was hoping for with this make.  The first version I made in the largest size straight out of the pattern with the one exception of lengthening it five inches at the hemline.  This one I tweaked a little.  I still made it in the largest size but instead of sewing 3/8" seam allowances I went with 5/8" seam allowances.  And instead of lengthening the hem line five inches I opted for four inches in additional length.  I also shortened the sleeves, they are still long, but I can live with the length.  Although, I will likely roll up the sleeves.  

The fabric is a beautiful merino wool I found at Marshall Fabrics last year.  As of a month or two ago they still have some in stock.  I would recommend using a walking foot and going slow with this fabric, it's worth the time.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres 

Sewing Label:  1 -- "me made" KATM clothing label

Pattern:  Toaster Sweater #2 by Sew House Seven

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, straight ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clippers, screwdriver, lint brush, tweezers, decaf coffee and a wee bit of procrastination.  

Happy Sewing!

Merino Wool Elastic Waist Skirt: OOP Butterick 5790

 

This fabric has been in the stash since last year, I just didn't have time to sew it until now.  It just happens that today is a windy and rainy cooler day with a chance that we might see some flurries this evening, the perfect occasion to break out this merino wool fabric and sew.  

The pull-on elastic waist skirt is a favourite vintage pattern, OOP Butterick 5790.  Just one pattern piece makes this a perfect project for a beginner or a for those days when a quick project is desired.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Elastic:  1 metre -- 1 inch wide

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790, circa 1999

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, assorted heavy objects used as weights, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clipper, screwdriver, lint brush, mini vacuum, tweezers, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board, coffee and an audiobook (Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom).  

Happy Sewing!

Scrap busting: Reusable Grocery Bags / OOP McCall's 4851

After the apple harvest I found the need to replenish the stack of reusable grocery bags after losing a few this summer.    

The challenge was finding suitable fabric without breaking the budget and running to a fabric store.  The blue and white floral fabric were a pair of recycled curtains.  It's a strong cotton fabric that I momentarily thought of turning into tea towels before getting back to the project on hand.  The straps are recycled grosgrain ribbon.  

This one was patchworked using some home décor scraps and a touristy tea towel.  The strap is a recycled yoga band.  

And one more patchworked bag made with home décor and denim scraps.  The straps again were from a recycled yoga band.  

The pattern is my go-to bag pattern, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 4851.  I did straighten the top edge, the only change I made.  

Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Whatever I could find and piece together

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 4851

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, iron, ironing board, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Pullover Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

 

I've lost count how many times out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372 has made it to the cutting table but here it is again.  This time, in a cotton knit that has been in the stash for longer than I can to count.  Nothing really new to report other than making another version.  It has the same changes as the previous version.  

• Center back an front were place on the fold eliminating any seams
• Sleeves were lengthened but still kept short.  

The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, straight ruler, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, Janome Cover Pro machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and decaf coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Oversized Wool Pull-over Top: Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater

This is a late arrival to the Toaster Sweater party.  The first review for this pattern appears on Pattern Review in 2016 and since then it received a "best pattern of 2017" rating and there are over 100 reviews posted.  I finally picked up a copy of this pattern last year and still didn't get around to sewing it until now.  I'm glad I finally got around to sewing up this pattern.  

I went big on this one, sewing up the largest size, leaving the sleeve length and extending the length by five inches.  There were two reasons for what seems like planned madness.  The fabric is a merino wool I've worked with previously and shrunk despite pre-treating the fabric.  Even if I shrink this, the hope is that it will still fit.  The other reason, once upon a time, I spotted an oversized, longer version of the toaster sweater and have been dreaming of one just like it ever since.  It was on a listing over on Etsy and even though the listing is no longer available, it is Sara's version, once shown on her shop listings that became my inspiration.  I wish I kept a copy of the photo from her version but I'm going by memory here.  

The sleeves are long.  If I roll it up twice, it still has a generous length.  No worries, I can happily push the sleeves up.  I don't want to touch them right now.  The hem was lengthened five inches.  And the pattern was cut as a size twenty.  It's oversized and I couldn't be more thrilled.  

Back in 2017, I made a toaster sweater by Sew House Seven using Simplicity 8529.  There are some differences between these two pattern.  The Simplicity pattern uses 5/8" seam allowance vs. 3/8" seam allowances on this pattern.  The methods for sewing the shoulder seam and neckline facing are different.  I wouldn't say that I prefer one method over the other unless you're working with a bulky fabric, then I would say that this pattern's method might be the way to go.  Another difference is the sleeve hems.  Simplicity 8529 has cuffs, I prefer the sleeve from this pattern.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres Merino Knit

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Toaster Sweaters by Sew House Seven

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, pen, various heavy objects to use as pattern weights, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, paper scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome serger, threads, Janome CoverPro, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and an audiobook.  

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Some Weight Loss Motivation: OOP Butterick 5790

This is my attempt at recreating a favourite make from back-in-the-day when I was fit and a healthy weight.  And even though I picked up vintage and out-of-print Butterick 5790 in a larger size combination, it didn't work out.  

It's snugger than a sausage casing around my abdomen, so I won't be putting it back on unless there is significant weight loss in my future.  Fingers crossed.  I really like this top so this is a little more motivation to lose weight.  

The fabric is a lovely French terry that I picked up many moons ago over at Marshall / Northwest Fabrics.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.4 metres (cotton French terry)

Knit 'N Staple tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790, circa 1999

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, measuring tape, iron, ironing board, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, Janome serger, threads, thread clipper and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!