Testing out a Pattern: OOP Vogue 1739

UPDATE

This is a finished version of out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1739, view C.  I can finally call this one a wearable toile and it has been gifted into happy arms.  Phew PHEW!  

There were several alterations to this pattern.  The copy of Vogue 1739 is the smaller size combination and I could have used a larger size.  This meant there were some adjustments made to the upper seams at the centre front, back and sides.  The length was shortened approximately five inches and the pants have an inch top-stitched hem.  Since I didn't know if this would work I didn't interface the front waist facing.  Instead of two rows of elastic, there is one casing made to fit an inch wide elastic.  

FITTING NOTES

This semi-finished pair of pants is a toile version.  There is a lovely wool fabric that is waiting to see if this version fits or if it will need some more adjustments.  

The request came from Mama R who is complaining that her pants are not feeling comfortable anymore.  She also does not care for wide leg pants.  I've made her pants in the past using her treasured out-of-print Simplicity 2372.  As of this moment, I can not find that pattern, not even the back-up version I have somewhere likely packed away for safe keeping.  ~sigh~  But I digress.  

The pants made with OOP Simplicity 2372 currently are too snug across the mid-section when she is sitting down.  So it's back to the cutting table to make a toile with another pattern, OOP Vogue 1739 that I have in my stash.  This pattern features a wide and slim fitting leg and elasticized back.  

Mom is not sold on the elasticized back and is requesting a full elastic waist.  But with the slim leg.  This is why I'm not a fan of sewing for others.  I have basically had to beg her to let me try out this pattern and then work from there if there are changes to be made.  The planning stage of the project was not at all a fun process.  If I can get the basic shape down and if she's still requesting a full elastic pants, I will do as she please.  

Overwhelmed with all her complaining about the fit of her pants and what she likes and doesn't like, I turned to my sewing library for help.  My sewing library is currently packed in cardboard boxes and trying to find the resources that I was looking for also sucked every single ounce of joy out of sewing this toile.  It didn't stop me though.  I love my Mom and am determined to finish a toile for her to try on and prayed that it would be a success.  Or at least a starting point.  

I was searching for Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit, I know that I own a copy of this book but after going through many boxes, it is nowhere to be found.  I did find Slacks Fitting Book by Nancy Zieman which was helpful.  

I used Zieman's method to increase the waistband without leaving the grainline and front darts as marked.  Fingers are crossed for the fitting results.  

Determined to give this pattern a try, I got to work cutting the fabric.  My toile fabric is a medium weight cotton stretch fabric that has been in the stash for decades.  There is a part of me that is sad it was used for toile fabric but then if I haven't used in the past decades what am I saving it for?  If it works as a wearable toile I would be thrilled.  The fabric was previously pre-treated and project ready.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres (width, 115 cm)

Elastic:  0.6 metres -- 1" width

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1739 (circa 2020), formerly OOP Vogue 9305

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, iron, ironing board, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, threads and a pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.