Favourite Makes of 2024

I thought I would pop back in and reflect on the top ten list for twenty twenty-four.  

Oh my goodness, Vogue 8909 is such a great pattern!  I made these back in May.  This is the second pair I've made from this pattern.  And I wear these a lot.  It's comfortable to kick around in and I can even dress them up a bit with a nice top to go out and run errands.  They are made with a navy cotton French terry.  

This top has saved me from abrasion wounds in the underarm region while wearing a scoliosis back brace.  It has extra padding in the underarm region.  It was made with out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 2899 and a yellow cotton French terry.  It will have to go down as my favourite makes just on comfort level.  It entered the wardrobe rotation in the end of October and even though I have had this for a short time it quickly became one of the most important pieces in the 2024 wardrobe.  

Is there anything better than wool pieces for survival during a prairie winter?  I do tend to live in ski-pants while outdoors in the winter but sometimes you want to show up at church in something that doesn't make noise when you walk.  I am saving this outfit for such occasions.  The top was made with Sew House Seven's Toaster sweater pattern.  The pull-on skirt is OOP Butterick 5790.  Both pieces were made in October.  

Here is another October make and another Sew House Seven Toaster sweater in merino wool.  It ended up being a wearable toile as I was playing around with an oversized version.  It has since shrunk a bit--an intentional shrinkage and fits much better.   

Oh my goodness, I wish I kept this top!  I made this cotton French terry top with OOP Butterick 5790 back in October when I was much heavier.  Since then I lost quite a bit of weight, although there is more to lose, I am sure that this would fit me today.  This top made it to the favourite list because this was nostalgic sewing.  Back in the day, when I first had a copy of OOP Butterick 5790, this was a favourite pattern and item to wear.  Even though I never got to wear this version of the top, it was fun to revisit this pattern at the time.  

This is a lovely Katherine Tilton design, Butterick 6784.  I made this dress back in April after dreaming of a second version in a cotton for the hot summer that promised to come.  I did wear this dress often during the warmer months, it's comfortable and I adored the print.  It reminds me of the decorative tiles I saw many moons ago in the Azores.  

This wool jacket was a labour of love.  It was made with OOP Vogue 2571.  If you come across this pattern, it is one that I would recommend.  I love that I found some beautiful vintage real wool fabrics at Winnipeg Sews that was unmatched to the wool blend or polyester faux-wool fabrics found in today's retail landscape.  This jacket is unbelievably warm and kept me warm on days that the wind chill hit minus forty-two. I was thrilled that I found leather toggles online before the postal strike.  There is nothing close to the quality of these toggles in the local retail stores here.  I completed this project during the summer before the cold weather arrived.  Just one sad note about this project, Winnipeg Sews, the business that I found this lovely fabric, closed this month.  It is sad to see another resource disappear.  

This butterfly print top was made back in June shortly after I received the scoliosis back brace and was searching for tops that could be worn over the brace.  There was some extra ease added to the back to help it fit over the additional bulk.  The pattern is a much-cherished Katherine Tilton design, OOP Butterick 5891.  

This is another gifted make, a wool winter coat made back in April.  My heart wasn't into making this at the time and it was a real struggle to get it done.  I guess it made the favourite list because of the fabric.  It's made with a beautiful wool find from Winnipeg Sews.  It turned out well , maybe because I've made so many coats (this is the fifth version) using OOP Vogue 8934.  Previous practice helped in getting it done.  

Well, there are my top ten makes of 2024.  Happy New Year! and wishing you joyful sewing in the upcoming year!  

What Was I Thinking in 2024?

Hello, it's been awhile.  

Boas Festas (Happy Holidays) to those celebrating the season.  I haven't been sewing, still taking a break.  I thought I would pop in with a look back at some of 2024's sewing bloopers.  

I started off 2024 with this top which ended up being gifted.  It was way, way too roomy in the bust and arms.  I have hips so I was okay in that region.  I don't know what I was thinking after all the reading all the reviews that recommended going down a size or two with Vogue 9330.

What was I thinking when I drafted this foam cover?  Good grief!  The first sewing blooper of the season was this self-drafted foam cover.  

Another project, Vogue 2000, that I started out making for myself but ended up gifting because it didn't fit.  What was I thinking when I decided to cut my good fabric without sewing a toile first?  

What was thinking when I made this denim gardening apron without pockets?  And why did I make it so long?  Maybe if I remove some of the length and make a pocket I might get more use from this next gardening season.  The pattern was from Tessuti patterns.  

What was I thinking when I made these sleeves so short?  I tried to use this make as a pajama top but I found that my arms were always cold.  And then I just stopped reaching for this top.  And this cotton knit fabric was too heavy for this Closet Core pattern.    

What was I thinking when I made these barrel leg pants for my short petite sized legs?  The pattern used was vintage and out-of-print (OOP) McCall's MP349.  

What was I thinking when I made this dress?  Oh yes, I wanted to use up the last of the nautical print fabric but there wasn't enough to make another top.  But it didn't turn out as I envisioned the project.  It looked like a nineties throwback and not at all my style.  Made with SD Patterns.  

 

What was I thinking?  I really wanted to make a caftan and that it might be something I could wear over the scoliosis back brace.  In reality the armhole openings were so big that it didn't hide the brace.  Even though it didn't get worn as intended, I did enjoy wearing the caftan at home.  The pattern used for this project was McCall's 8516.  

What was I thinking when I thought that a cotton sateen version of the Closet Core top designed for knits would be a good idea?   I thought that it could be worn under the scoliosis back brace  

What was I thinking when I broke my 2024 promise to sew no more polyester?  This was my last sewing project of 2024 and I never wore it.  It quickly ended up in the donation bin.  Made with a satin back polyester crepe and OOP Vogue 1730, a pattern designed for knits.  Everything about this project was just wrong. 

Happy Sewing!

Year in Review

Well, I guess I will start with some stats.  In 2024, I focused on two things, sewing from the stash and no more polyester.  Let's start with what I managed to make this year.  There were a total of thirty-eight projects created this year.  

Aprons (one for moi, one was gifted)

Boy's shirt (gifted)

Caftan (for moi)

Cardigan (for moi)

Dresses (four were gifted, two for moi)

Foam block Covers (three, for moi)

Garment Bag (for moi)

Pajama Sets (two for moi)

Panties (six for moi)

Reusable Grocery Bags (eight for moi)

Skirts (three for moi)

Sweatpants (two for moi)

Table runner (for moi)

Tops (nine for moi, six were gifted)

Tuque (gifted)

Winter Coat (gifted)

Winter Jacket (for moi)

During the year, I used Vogue patterns eight times, Butterick patterns four times, Simplicity patterns seven times, McCall's patterns ten times, The Assembly Line once, Tessuti patterns twice, The Littlest Studio once, Closet Core patterns four times, Sew House Seven pattern twice and SD Patterns once.  

January

Top L to R:  French terry Sweatpants (Vogue 8909), cotton pullover tops (OOP Simplicity 2372), cotton flannel pajama set (Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217).  Bottom L to R:  cotton table runner (no pattern used) merino wool pullover top (Vogue 9330), cotton reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), merino wool tuque (The Littlest Studio, free download).

The El Niño that started in the later part of 2023 continued into the new year.  Even though there were some winter ready pieces made this month, they didn't see much use this month.  It became one sad January for those of us hoping for snow to transform the region into a winter wonderland.  

February

Top L to R:  Cotton Tessuti apron (free downloadable pattern), cotton sateen dress (OOP Simplicity 2372).  Bottom L to R:  Cotton foam block cover and the first sewing blooper of 2024 (self-drafted without coffee), raw silk dress (OOP Simplicity 2372) and cotton foam block cover (self-drafted pattern).

Our local winter festival typically fills the landscape with snow sculptures, but this year with the winter heat wave and lack of snow, plans changed.  And then irony came into play and dumped snow the day after the festival closed.  

March

Top L to R:  Feather print cotton knit pajama set; top (Closet Core Ebony), cotton knit bottoms (OOP McCall's P349), cotton knit pink and gray floral knit t-shirt (Closet Core Ebony).  Bottom L to R:  Merino knit cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192), cotton knit gray and white cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core Ebony), cotton polka dot foam block cover (no pattern used).  

March came in, as the saying goes, like a lion and out like a lamb.  With the exception of an early March low pressure system, it didn't feel like we experienced winter at all.  

April

Clockwise L to R:  Cotton colour-blocked oversized sweatshirt (OOP Simplicity 8529), lined wool winter coat (OOP Vogue 8934), cotton tile print cotton pullover dress (Butterick 6784), cotton knit pull-on skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) and cotton chambray DVF wrap dress (Vogue 2000).  

Before mid-April came around any resemblance of snow had mostly disappeared.  Only gray mountain-like piles left by snow clearing trucks remain in shopping malls parking lots.  And tulips in flower beds tried to bloom.  

May

L to R:  Cotton French terry sweatpants (Vogue 8909) and colour-blocked cotton knit pullover dress (SD Patterns).  

It was a quiet month at the work table as yard work took up most of my free time.  

June

Top L to R:  Cotton sateen top (Closet Core Ebony), cotton caftan (McCall's 8516), cotton denim gardening apron (Tessuti apron).

Bottom L to R:  cotton white shirt (vintage Simplicity 7840), cotton blue and white butterfly print top (out-of-print Butterick 5891) and white cotton sateen pull-on skirt (The Assembly Line, S:403).  

Sewing, for the most part, was about making clothes that I hoped could be worn over the back brace.  And there was one gifted project as well.  

July

There was sewing this month, lots of slow hand sewing.  And lot of yardwork.  

August

Clockwise:  cotton patchworked garment cover (no pattern used), cotton panties (OOP Simplicity 8229) and reversible wool coat (OOP Vogue 2571)

You wouldn't know by the type of sewing projects completed this month that we're experiencing heat warnings this month.  I'm longing for cooler temperatures and the end of summer.  

September

Five more pairs of cotton knit panties (OOP Simplicity 8229).  

A few cooler days, lots of yardwork, and then the return of the hot summer temperatures.  

October

Top row, L to R:  Cotton French terry t-shirt to be worn under a scoliosis back brace (OOP Kwik Sew 2899), gray merino wool oversized pullover sweater (Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater), gray merino wool elastic waist maxi skirt (OOP Butterick 5790), four cotton reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851).  
Bottom row, L to R:  black cotton knit pullover top (OOP Simplicity 2372), black merino wool oversized pullover sweater (Sew House Seven Toaster sweater), yellow cotton French terry hoodie (OOP Butterick 5790).  

A snowless October and a break from yardwork allowed for some time at the sewing machine.  

November and December

No more sewing, this journey has come to an end as my reusable grocery bag collection is full, I have a full drawer of knickers and clothes that I need to lose some weight to make sure they are wearable.  My sewing life has been quite a ride, thank you for sharing this journey with me.  I have moved on to other things, most importantly and firstly prayer, exercising and maybe I will find the time to pick up a book or two and read along the way.  

Happy Sewing and New Year!  

Testing It Out and Stash-busting: OOP Vogue 1730

I was wondering if out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1730 might work in a woven fabric since the skirt pattern is cut on the bias.  

UPDATE:  This one made it in the donation bag shortly after making it.  

I tried it out with a polyester satin back crepe that has been in the stash for way too long.  With some changes to the pattern, it worked out.  The changes were necessary because the last time I made this skirt, I cut the pattern in my then size.  I'm currently no longer that size and am trying to lose weight.  Fingers crossed.  In the meantime, I did use another skirt pattern by The Assembly Line to adjust the waistline.  I kept the hemline the same as the original pattern not shortening it at the hem.  I did manage to shorten the length when I folded over the waistline to create a casing for 1 1/4" elastic.   

I know I should address the fabric and that fact this is in a polyester garment.  I pledged earlier this year that I wasn't going to sew anymore polyester but that stuff is everywhere, even my stash.  It's actually the first polyester garment made this year.  My bad.  Even though it did work out as a woven, I'm not actually smitten with the fabric.  This fabric was in the stash for someone else who has since changed their mind about it.  So, it sat in the stash for years.  It wasn't my first choice, I just didn't want to use some of my natural fiber fabrics without knowing if it would work.  It's a little fancy, maybe it will be something I will put on during the holidays.  We'll see.  Now that I know it can work in a woven fabric, I don't know if I want to make another one.  That might be that I had to cut this project on the floor and my poor back and knees were too happy about it.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1739

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, safety pins, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

October in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Top row, L to R:  yellow French cotton scoliosis undershirt (OOP Kwik Sew 2899), grey merino wool sweater set (toaster sweater by Sew House Seven and skirt OOP Butterick 5790), four reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851).  Bottom row:  black cotton knit pullover top (OOP Simplicity 2372), oversized black merino wool toaster sweater (Sew House Seven), yellow French terry pullover hoodie (OOP Butterick 5790).  

I made it back to the sewing machine this month and actually got to some projects I've wanted to get done for quite some time.  Grocery bags disappeared over the summer during the apple harvest.  It was time to replenish those bags that went missing.  Two items (black t-shirt and yellow hoodie) were gifted.  

One of my flannel pajama bottoms made it to the work table for repairs.  It might be time to start planning on sewing another pair as I've been fixing holes.  Sadly, the flannel fabric on these three-year old pajamas did not hold up well.   Refashioning wise, there were curtains and a tea towel that were used for the reusable grocery bags.  

Stash busting

Stash -busted this month:

• 8 metres fabric
• 2 sewing labels
• 1 meter elastic
• 0.4 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape
• 1 yoga band
• 1 metre of trim

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 73.5 metres fabric + scrap pieces patch-worked together to create new fabric yardages.
• 15.4 metres elastic
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2.4 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 7 metres trim
• 10 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 leather toggles
• 4.3 metres basting tape
• 5 spools of thread
• 1 yoga band

Total additions this year (nothing added this month):  

• 5 leather toggles
• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 second hand cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

Creating Scoliosis Undergarments: OOP Kwik Sew 2899

There are very few sewing patterns out there for those of us that have mobility issues.  Forget finding a sewing pattern or guidance on fitting a garment for those with scoliosis even though it is estimated that scoliosis affects two to three percent of the world's population.  ~sigh~  It is moments like these that I'm thankful for the skills, equipment and fabric stash to sew my own clothes.  So, I set to work on the next project to hit my worktable.  

This is an undershirt to be worn under my scoliosis back brace.  I made some modifications to out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 2899 to help protect my underarms while working and wearing the brace.  The brace has been leaving abrasion wounds in my underarm region that take four to seven days to heal before I can even consider strapping the brace back on.  And that is with wearing a body sock that I was given to wear with the brace.  

These are photos of the brace I wear with the seamless torso body sock.  I've search online and there are other options out there.  

This one with the underarm flaps was interesting and could possibly provide the coverage I need.  But I wasn't 100% certain that it would work, I wanted sleeves.  However, I did steal some inspiration from this top.  

I added an extra layer of fabric in the underarm region.  I also stitch the seam allowances on the outside around the sleeves and sides of the top.  The shoulder seams and neck binding were sewn right sides together.  The hems were serged and left as is since this is an under the brace garment.  

OOP Kwik Sew 2899 is designed for heavyweight stretch fabrics such as heavy fleece or sweatshirt fleece.  This top is sewn in a lighter fabric, a medium weight cotton French terry.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Kwik Sew 2899 is a well drafted pattern.  It is the first one that I have sewn that calls for 1/4" seams and is designed as a "kwik serge" pattern.  It has dual instructions for serger (overlock) and standard sewing machines.  

I think this might work out.  I guess I won't know until I wear it to do some yardwork, that will be the final test on how well it protects my underarms.  Right now, around the house, it's comfortable while wearing it under the brace.  

Project details

Seams:  Serged

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres French terry

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 2899, view B

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, marker, ruler, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, mini vacuum and lint brush.  

Happy Sewing!

Merino Wool Pullover Sweater: Sew House Seven's Toaster Sweater / An Oversized Version

This toaster sweater is part of a set, it's meant to be worn with a recently made matching skirt.

First, let's talk about the sweater.  Oh my goodness, it's cozy and oversized and just what I was hoping for with this make.  The first version I made in the largest size straight out of the pattern with the one exception of lengthening it five inches at the hemline.  This one I tweaked a little.  I still made it in the largest size but instead of sewing 3/8" seam allowances I went with 5/8" seam allowances.  And instead of lengthening the hem line five inches I opted for four inches in additional length.  I also shortened the sleeves, they are still long, but I can live with the length.  Although, I will likely roll up the sleeves.  

The fabric is a beautiful merino wool I found at Marshall Fabrics last year.  As of a month or two ago they still have some in stock.  I would recommend using a walking foot and going slow with this fabric, it's worth the time.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres 

Sewing Label:  1 -- "me made" KATM clothing label

Pattern:  Toaster Sweater #2 by Sew House Seven

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, straight ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clippers, screwdriver, lint brush, tweezers, decaf coffee and a wee bit of procrastination.  

Happy Sewing!

Merino Wool Elastic Waist Skirt: OOP Butterick 5790

 

This fabric has been in the stash since last year, I just didn't have time to sew it until now.  It just happens that today is a windy and rainy cooler day with a chance that we might see some flurries this evening, the perfect occasion to break out this merino wool fabric and sew.  

The pull-on elastic waist skirt is a favourite vintage pattern, OOP Butterick 5790.  Just one pattern piece makes this a perfect project for a beginner or a for those days when a quick project is desired.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Elastic:  1 metre -- 1 inch wide

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790, circa 1999

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, assorted heavy objects used as weights, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clipper, screwdriver, lint brush, mini vacuum, tweezers, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board, coffee and an audiobook (Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom).  

Happy Sewing!

Scrap busting: Reusable Grocery Bags / OOP McCall's 4851

After the apple harvest I found the need to replenish the stack of reusable grocery bags after losing a few this summer.    

The challenge was finding suitable fabric without breaking the budget and running to a fabric store.  The blue and white floral fabric were a pair of recycled curtains.  It's a strong cotton fabric that I momentarily thought of turning into tea towels before getting back to the project on hand.  The straps are recycled grosgrain ribbon.  

This one was patchworked using some home décor scraps and a touristy tea towel.  The strap is a recycled yoga band.  

And one more patchworked bag made with home décor and denim scraps.  The straps again were from a recycled yoga band.  

The pattern is my go-to bag pattern, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 4851.  I did straighten the top edge, the only change I made.  

Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Whatever I could find and piece together

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 4851

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, iron, ironing board, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Pullover Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

 

I've lost count how many times out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372 has made it to the cutting table but here it is again.  This time, in a cotton knit that has been in the stash for longer than I can to count.  Nothing really new to report other than making another version.  It has the same changes as the previous version.  

• Center back an front were place on the fold eliminating any seams
• Sleeves were lengthened but still kept short.  

The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, straight ruler, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, Janome Cover Pro machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and decaf coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Oversized Wool Pull-over Top: Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater

This is a late arrival to the Toaster Sweater party.  The first review for this pattern appears on Pattern Review in 2016 and since then it received a "best pattern of 2017" rating and there are over 100 reviews posted.  I finally picked up a copy of this pattern last year and still didn't get around to sewing it until now.  I'm glad I finally got around to sewing up this pattern.  

I went big on this one, sewing up the largest size, leaving the sleeve length and extending the length by five inches.  There were two reasons for what seems like planned madness.  The fabric is a merino wool I've worked with previously and shrunk despite pre-treating the fabric.  Even if I shrink this, the hope is that it will still fit.  The other reason, once upon a time, I spotted an oversized, longer version of the toaster sweater and have been dreaming of one just like it ever since.  It was on a listing over on Etsy and even though the listing is no longer available, it is Sara's version, once shown on her shop listings that became my inspiration.  I wish I kept a copy of the photo from her version but I'm going by memory here.  

The sleeves are long.  If I roll it up twice, it still has a generous length.  No worries, I can happily push the sleeves up.  I don't want to touch them right now.  The hem was lengthened five inches.  And the pattern was cut as a size twenty.  It's oversized and I couldn't be more thrilled.  

Back in 2017, I made a toaster sweater by Sew House Seven using Simplicity 8529.  There are some differences between these two pattern.  The Simplicity pattern uses 5/8" seam allowance vs. 3/8" seam allowances on this pattern.  The methods for sewing the shoulder seam and neckline facing are different.  I wouldn't say that I prefer one method over the other unless you're working with a bulky fabric, then I would say that this pattern's method might be the way to go.  Another difference is the sleeve hems.  Simplicity 8529 has cuffs, I prefer the sleeve from this pattern.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres Merino Knit

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Toaster Sweaters by Sew House Seven

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, pen, various heavy objects to use as pattern weights, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, paper scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome serger, threads, Janome CoverPro, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and an audiobook.  

Happy Sewing!