Year in Review

Well, I guess I will start with some stats.  In 2024, I focused on two things, sewing from the stash and no more polyester.  Let's start with what I managed to make this year.  There were a total of thirty-eight projects created this year.  

Aprons (one for moi, one was gifted)

Boy's shirt (gifted)

Caftan (for moi)

Cardigan (for moi)

Dresses (four were gifted, two for moi)

Foam block Covers (three, for moi)

Garment Bag (for moi)

Pajama Sets (two for moi)

Panties (six for moi)

Reusable Grocery Bags (eight for moi)

Skirts (three for moi)

Sweatpants (two for moi)

Table runner (for moi)

Tops (nine for moi, six were gifted)

Tuque (gifted)

Winter Coat (gifted)

Winter Jacket (for moi)

During the year, I used Vogue patterns eight times, Butterick patterns four times, Simplicity patterns seven times, McCall's patterns ten times, The Assembly Line once, Tessuti patterns twice, The Littlest Studio once, Closet Core patterns four times, Sew House Seven pattern twice and SD Patterns once.  

January

Top L to R:  French terry Sweatpants (Vogue 8909), cotton pullover tops (OOP Simplicity 2372), cotton flannel pajama set (Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217).  Bottom L to R:  cotton table runner (no pattern used) merino wool pullover top (Vogue 9330), cotton reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851), merino wool tuque (The Littlest Studio, free download).

The El Niño that started in the later part of 2023 continued into the new year.  Even though there were some winter ready pieces made this month, they didn't see much use this month.  It became one sad January for those of us hoping for snow to transform the region into a winter wonderland.  

February

Top L to R:  Cotton Tessuti apron (free downloadable pattern), cotton sateen dress (OOP Simplicity 2372).  Bottom L to R:  Cotton foam block cover and the first sewing blooper of 2024 (self-drafted without coffee), raw silk dress (OOP Simplicity 2372) and cotton foam block cover (self-drafted pattern).

Our local winter festival typically fills the landscape with snow sculptures, but this year with the winter heat wave and lack of snow, plans changed.  And then irony came into play and dumped snow the day after the festival closed.  

March

Top L to R:  Feather print cotton knit pajama set; top (Closet Core Ebony), cotton knit bottoms (OOP McCall's P349), cotton knit pink and gray floral knit t-shirt (Closet Core Ebony).  Bottom L to R:  Merino knit cardigan (OOP Kwik Sew 4192), cotton knit gray and white cotton knit t-shirt (Closet Core Ebony), cotton polka dot foam block cover (no pattern used).  

March came in, as the saying goes, like a lion and out like a lamb.  With the exception of an early March low pressure system, it didn't feel like we experienced winter at all.  

April

Clockwise L to R:  Cotton colour-blocked oversized sweatshirt (OOP Simplicity 8529), lined wool winter coat (OOP Vogue 8934), cotton tile print cotton pullover dress (Butterick 6784), cotton knit pull-on skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) and cotton chambray DVF wrap dress (Vogue 2000).  

Before mid-April came around any resemblance of snow had mostly disappeared.  Only gray mountain-like piles left by snow clearing trucks remain in shopping malls parking lots.  And tulips in flower beds tried to bloom.  

May

L to R:  Cotton French terry sweatpants (Vogue 8909) and colour-blocked cotton knit pullover dress (SD Patterns).  

It was a quiet month at the work table as yard work took up most of my free time.  

June

Top L to R:  Cotton sateen top (Closet Core Ebony), cotton caftan (McCall's 8516), cotton denim gardening apron (Tessuti apron).

Bottom L to R:  cotton white shirt (vintage Simplicity 7840), cotton blue and white butterfly print top (out-of-print Butterick 5891) and white cotton sateen pull-on skirt (The Assembly Line, S:403).  

Sewing, for the most part, was about making clothes that I hoped could be worn over the back brace.  And there was one gifted project as well.  

July

There was sewing this month, lots of slow hand sewing.  And lot of yardwork.  

August

Clockwise:  cotton patchworked garment cover (no pattern used), cotton panties (OOP Simplicity 8229) and reversible wool coat (OOP Vogue 2571)

You wouldn't know by the type of sewing projects completed this month that we're experiencing heat warnings this month.  I'm longing for cooler temperatures and the end of summer.  

September

Five more pairs of cotton knit panties (OOP Simplicity 8229).  

A few cooler days, lots of yardwork, and then the return of the hot summer temperatures.  

October

Top row, L to R:  Cotton French terry t-shirt to be worn under a scoliosis back brace (OOP Kwik Sew 2899), gray merino wool oversized pullover sweater (Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater), gray merino wool elastic waist maxi skirt (OOP Butterick 5790), four cotton reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851).  
Bottom row, L to R:  black cotton knit pullover top (OOP Simplicity 2372), black merino wool oversized pullover sweater (Sew House Seven Toaster sweater), yellow cotton French terry hoodie (OOP Butterick 5790).  

A snowless October and a break from yardwork allowed for some time at the sewing machine.  

November and December

No more sewing, this journey has come to an end as my reusable grocery bag collection is full, I have a full drawer of knickers and clothes that I need to lose some weight to make sure they are wearable.  My sewing life has been quite a ride, thank you for sharing this journey with me.  I have moved on to other things, most importantly and firstly prayer, exercising and maybe I will find the time to pick up a book or two and read along the way.  

Happy Sewing and New Year!  

Testing It Out and Stash-busting: OOP Vogue 1730

I was wondering if out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1730 might work in a woven fabric since the skirt pattern is cut on the bias.  

UPDATE:  This one made it in the donation bag shortly after making it.  

I tried it out with a polyester satin back crepe that has been in the stash for way too long.  With some changes to the pattern, it worked out.  The changes were necessary because the last time I made this skirt, I cut the pattern in my then size.  I'm currently no longer that size and am trying to lose weight.  Fingers crossed.  In the meantime, I did use another skirt pattern by The Assembly Line to adjust the waistline.  I kept the hemline the same as the original pattern not shortening it at the hem.  I did manage to shorten the length when I folded over the waistline to create a casing for 1 1/4" elastic.   

I know I should address the fabric and that fact this is in a polyester garment.  I pledged earlier this year that I wasn't going to sew anymore polyester but that stuff is everywhere, even my stash.  It's actually the first polyester garment made this year.  My bad.  Even though it did work out as a woven, I'm not actually smitten with the fabric.  This fabric was in the stash for someone else who has since changed their mind about it.  So, it sat in the stash for years.  It wasn't my first choice, I just didn't want to use some of my natural fiber fabrics without knowing if it would work.  It's a little fancy, maybe it will be something I will put on during the holidays.  We'll see.  Now that I know it can work in a woven fabric, I don't know if I want to make another one.  That might be that I had to cut this project on the floor and my poor back and knees were too happy about it.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1739

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, safety pins, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

October in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Top row, L to R:  yellow French cotton scoliosis undershirt (OOP Kwik Sew 2899), grey merino wool sweater set (toaster sweater by Sew House Seven and skirt OOP Butterick 5790), four reusable grocery bags (OOP McCall's 4851).  Bottom row:  black cotton knit pullover top (OOP Simplicity 2372), oversized black merino wool toaster sweater (Sew House Seven), yellow French terry pullover hoodie (OOP Butterick 5790).  

I made it back to the sewing machine this month and actually got to some projects I've wanted to get done for quite some time.  Grocery bags disappeared over the summer during the apple harvest.  It was time to replenish those bags that went missing.  Two items (black t-shirt and yellow hoodie) were gifted.  

One of my flannel pajama bottoms made it to the work table for repairs.  It might be time to start planning on sewing another pair as I've been fixing holes.  Sadly, the flannel fabric on these three-year old pajamas did not hold up well.   Refashioning wise, there were curtains and a tea towel that were used for the reusable grocery bags.  

Stash busting

Stash -busted this month:

• 8 metres fabric
• 2 sewing labels
• 1 meter elastic
• 0.4 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape
• 1 yoga band
• 1 metre of trim

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 73.5 metres fabric + scrap pieces patch-worked together to create new fabric yardages.
• 15.4 metres elastic
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2.4 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 7 metres trim
• 10 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 leather toggles
• 4.3 metres basting tape
• 5 spools of thread
• 1 yoga band

Total additions this year (nothing added this month):  

• 5 leather toggles
• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 second hand cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

Creating Scoliosis Undergarments: OOP Kwik Sew 2899

There are very few sewing patterns out there for those of us that have mobility issues.  Forget finding a sewing pattern or guidance on fitting a garment for those with scoliosis even though it is estimated that scoliosis affects two to three percent of the world's population.  ~sigh~  It is moments like these that I'm thankful for the skills, equipment and fabric stash to sew my own clothes.  So, I set to work on the next project to hit my worktable.  

This is an undershirt to be worn under my scoliosis back brace.  I made some modifications to out-of-print (OOP) Kwik Sew 2899 to help protect my underarms while working and wearing the brace.  The brace has been leaving abrasion wounds in my underarm region that take four to seven days to heal before I can even consider strapping the brace back on.  And that is with wearing a body sock that I was given to wear with the brace.  

These are photos of the brace I wear with the seamless torso body sock.  I've search online and there are other options out there.  

This one with the underarm flaps was interesting and could possibly provide the coverage I need.  But I wasn't 100% certain that it would work, I wanted sleeves.  However, I did steal some inspiration from this top.  

I added an extra layer of fabric in the underarm region.  I also stitch the seam allowances on the outside around the sleeves and sides of the top.  The shoulder seams and neck binding were sewn right sides together.  The hems were serged and left as is since this is an under the brace garment.  

OOP Kwik Sew 2899 is designed for heavyweight stretch fabrics such as heavy fleece or sweatshirt fleece.  This top is sewn in a lighter fabric, a medium weight cotton French terry.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Kwik Sew 2899 is a well drafted pattern.  It is the first one that I have sewn that calls for 1/4" seams and is designed as a "kwik serge" pattern.  It has dual instructions for serger (overlock) and standard sewing machines.  

I think this might work out.  I guess I won't know until I wear it to do some yardwork, that will be the final test on how well it protects my underarms.  Right now, around the house, it's comfortable while wearing it under the brace.  

Project details

Seams:  Serged

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres French terry

Pattern:  OOP Kwik Sew 2899, view B

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, marker, ruler, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, mini vacuum and lint brush.  

Happy Sewing!

Merino Wool Pullover Sweater: Sew House Seven's Toaster Sweater / An Oversized Version

This toaster sweater is part of a set, it's meant to be worn with a recently made matching skirt.

First, let's talk about the sweater.  Oh my goodness, it's cozy and oversized and just what I was hoping for with this make.  The first version I made in the largest size straight out of the pattern with the one exception of lengthening it five inches at the hemline.  This one I tweaked a little.  I still made it in the largest size but instead of sewing 3/8" seam allowances I went with 5/8" seam allowances.  And instead of lengthening the hem line five inches I opted for four inches in additional length.  I also shortened the sleeves, they are still long, but I can live with the length.  Although, I will likely roll up the sleeves.  

The fabric is a beautiful merino wool I found at Marshall Fabrics last year.  As of a month or two ago they still have some in stock.  I would recommend using a walking foot and going slow with this fabric, it's worth the time.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.1 metres 

Sewing Label:  1 -- "me made" KATM clothing label

Pattern:  Toaster Sweater #2 by Sew House Seven

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, straight ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clippers, screwdriver, lint brush, tweezers, decaf coffee and a wee bit of procrastination.  

Happy Sewing!

Merino Wool Elastic Waist Skirt: OOP Butterick 5790

 

This fabric has been in the stash since last year, I just didn't have time to sew it until now.  It just happens that today is a windy and rainy cooler day with a chance that we might see some flurries this evening, the perfect occasion to break out this merino wool fabric and sew.  

The pull-on elastic waist skirt is a favourite vintage pattern, OOP Butterick 5790.  Just one pattern piece makes this a perfect project for a beginner or a for those days when a quick project is desired.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres

Elastic:  1 metre -- 1 inch wide

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790, circa 1999

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, assorted heavy objects used as weights, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, Janome Cover Pro machine, threads, thread clipper, screwdriver, lint brush, mini vacuum, tweezers, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board, coffee and an audiobook (Nelson Mandela's Long Walk to Freedom).  

Happy Sewing!

Scrap busting: Reusable Grocery Bags / OOP McCall's 4851

After the apple harvest I found the need to replenish the stack of reusable grocery bags after losing a few this summer.    

The challenge was finding suitable fabric without breaking the budget and running to a fabric store.  The blue and white floral fabric were a pair of recycled curtains.  It's a strong cotton fabric that I momentarily thought of turning into tea towels before getting back to the project on hand.  The straps are recycled grosgrain ribbon.  

This one was patchworked using some home décor scraps and a touristy tea towel.  The strap is a recycled yoga band.  

And one more patchworked bag made with home décor and denim scraps.  The straps again were from a recycled yoga band.  

The pattern is my go-to bag pattern, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 4851.  I did straighten the top edge, the only change I made.  

Project details

Seams:  3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Whatever I could find and piece together

Pattern:  OOP McCall's 4851

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, iron, ironing board, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Pullover Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

 

I've lost count how many times out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372 has made it to the cutting table but here it is again.  This time, in a cotton knit that has been in the stash for longer than I can to count.  Nothing really new to report other than making another version.  It has the same changes as the previous version.  

• Center back an front were place on the fold eliminating any seams
• Sleeves were lengthened but still kept short.  

The fabric was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, straight ruler, measuring gauge, Janome sewing machine, Janome Cover Pro machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and decaf coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Oversized Wool Pull-over Top: Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater

This is a late arrival to the Toaster Sweater party.  The first review for this pattern appears on Pattern Review in 2016 and since then it received a "best pattern of 2017" rating and there are over 100 reviews posted.  I finally picked up a copy of this pattern last year and still didn't get around to sewing it until now.  I'm glad I finally got around to sewing up this pattern.  

I went big on this one, sewing up the largest size, leaving the sleeve length and extending the length by five inches.  There were two reasons for what seems like planned madness.  The fabric is a merino wool I've worked with previously and shrunk despite pre-treating the fabric.  Even if I shrink this, the hope is that it will still fit.  The other reason, once upon a time, I spotted an oversized, longer version of the toaster sweater and have been dreaming of one just like it ever since.  It was on a listing over on Etsy and even though the listing is no longer available, it is Sara's version, once shown on her shop listings that became my inspiration.  I wish I kept a copy of the photo from her version but I'm going by memory here.  

The sleeves are long.  If I roll it up twice, it still has a generous length.  No worries, I can happily push the sleeves up.  I don't want to touch them right now.  The hem was lengthened five inches.  And the pattern was cut as a size twenty.  It's oversized and I couldn't be more thrilled.  

Back in 2017, I made a toaster sweater by Sew House Seven using Simplicity 8529.  There are some differences between these two pattern.  The Simplicity pattern uses 5/8" seam allowance vs. 3/8" seam allowances on this pattern.  The methods for sewing the shoulder seam and neckline facing are different.  I wouldn't say that I prefer one method over the other unless you're working with a bulky fabric, then I would say that this pattern's method might be the way to go.  Another difference is the sleeve hems.  Simplicity 8529 has cuffs, I prefer the sleeve from this pattern.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres Merino Knit

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Toaster Sweaters by Sew House Seven

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, tracing paper, pen, various heavy objects to use as pattern weights, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, paper scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, Janome serger, threads, Janome CoverPro, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and an audiobook.  

Happy Sewing!

Sewing Some Weight Loss Motivation: OOP Butterick 5790

This is my attempt at recreating a favourite make from back-in-the-day when I was fit and a healthy weight.  And even though I picked up vintage and out-of-print Butterick 5790 in a larger size combination, it didn't work out.  

It's snugger than a sausage casing around my abdomen, so I won't be putting it back on unless there is significant weight loss in my future.  Fingers crossed.  I really like this top so this is a little more motivation to lose weight.  

The fabric is a lovely French terry that I picked up many moons ago over at Marshall / Northwest Fabrics.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.4 metres (cotton French terry)

Knit 'N Staple tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5790, circa 1999

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, measuring tape, iron, ironing board, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, screw driver, Janome serger, threads, thread clipper and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

September in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

It's hard to believe that the end of September is here and all that I managed to sew this month are five pairs of panties that I start sewing the previous month.  No alterations or mending projects were completed.  It was a pretty slow month in the sewing department although it was busy, my mind was working overtime on future sewing plans.  

I'm busy trying to figure out what and how to wear clothing with the scoliosis back brace.  It's been a blessing and also a pain (no pun intended).  Wearing a brace during the summer months has been less than fun.  It's been a long hot summer and wearing a bulky back brace plus body sock in the heat is not at all my idea of a fun time.  But the brace helps with the back pain and in so many ways it has been a blessing.  It also creates another problem that I need to solve.  

What to wear?  

This is basically what I wear now.  A sleeveless polyester body sock underneath the brace that causes abrasion wounds in the underarm region.  I asked if the upper part of the brace could be cut down but the answer was no.  And the family doctor suggests putting gauze bandages where the abrasion wound appear before I put the brace on.  There has to be a simpler solution.  

 

This is a RTW t-shirt with underarm flaps to be worn under a back brace that I could pick up online.  I dislike shopping online about as much as I dislike printing, taping and cutting out PDF patterns.  I've been disappointed too many times with scoliosis undergarments that I've pick up in the past.  Not going down that route again.  But it is an interesting design.  

I want control over the fabric.  The body sock I was given with the brace is made with 100% polyester and even though the label claims to "help keep skin dry" that is a big fat falsehood.  And it's pilling like crazy.  I want cotton, a rare commodity in the body sock market.  

If I want something in cotton and that is high enough in the armpits to provide protection, I'm going to have to make it myself.  The idea is still brewing in my brain, but I hope to have a sample sewn up shortly.  

National Sewing Month

Today marks the end of National Sewing Month, which this year's theme could be summed up in the words in Barbara Burman's introduction to The Point of the Needle:  Why Sewing Matters.

The most marked new theme to emerge in the intervening time is best called the new politics of stuff--when sewing for yourself is part of the desire to reduce ready-made consumption, to be a thoughtful and well-informed consumer mindful of the potential exploitation of people and the planet (15). 

Well as far as celebrating the theme of Sew Sustainable, I went as far as leaving a smaller footprint with the small output this month.  

Stash busting

Stash busted this month:  

• 2.5 metres fabric
• 7 metres elastic

Stash-busted totals for 2024:  

• 65.5 metres fabric + scrap pieces patchworked together to create new fabric yardage
• 14.4 elastic
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 8 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 leather spools
• 4.3 metres basting tape

Total additions this year:  

• 5 leather toggles
• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 second hand cover stitch machine

Happy Sewing!

  

Stash busting: OOP Simplicity 8229

I finally finished the batch of undies I started last month.  Life and a late summer cold turned this into a slow sewing project.   

Simplicity 8229 is a favourite and the go-to pattern for sewing panties around the work table.  Sadly, it is no longer available but it was mentioned over on Pattern Review that this pattern is similar.  Added bonus:  it's a free downloadable PDF pattern and since it's for panties, it won't eat up all the ink and paper at the printer.  

The fabric has been in the stash since the time when Mitchell Fabrics was open, pre-twenty seventeen.  You don't find cotton knit like this in the remaining fabric stores in the region.  It was a pleasure to sew and it's a comfortable knit to wear.  The picot elastic was found many moons ago at Marshall Fabrics but it's been years since I've been able to find picot elastic like this locally.  I'm grateful that I had the materials to make these panties and at the same time sad that it's getting harder to find these items.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) and zig-zag stitch

Seam finish:  Serged 

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Elastic:  7 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools and Supplies:   Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, Janome CoverPro, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

September is National Sewing Month: Keep on Sewing Sustainably

 

This year's National Sewing Month theme is a continuation of last year's "Sew Sustainable" theme. 

Be Mindful of Sources

This one is a tough one in today's retail climate.  Often we make choices based on autopilot.  Or are you aware of the decisions made while searching for the perfect fabric and supplies for a project.  We all want to make "better" choices but there are so many challenges along the way.  Bolts of fabric are rarely labelled with information that might sway our decisions.  

Let's look at cotton production.  

When was the last time that you found the source listed on a bolt of cotton?  It's a rare sight.  But consider if a country's human rights or environmental record would affect your decision on whether or not to pick up a product.  What guides our decisions in the fabric aisles or are we being set up to operate on autopilot without considering questions we may have along the way.   

Use Fewer Materials

These past decades, there has been a steady decline in the RTW market of using fewer materials when constructing a garment.  It all started with less buttons appearing on a shirt and the growing trend towards pullover or pull-on pieces that eliminate the need for closures altogether.  

I'm not advocating for this, it's just an observation.  Although, I do like an easy access garment now-a-days while strapped into the back brace.  But I digress.  Instead, this point can be summed up as avoiding wastefulness.  Recently, I was able to use fewer materials with the appearance of a second hand Cover stitch machine.  When sewing knits pre-Cover stitch era, I used a lot of Knit 'n Stable to help me sew a neat and tidy hem on knit garments.  Now-a-days, there is no need to stock up on Knit 'N Stable tape and spend all that time pressing it in place.  

Recycle and Reuse

There are many opportunities in the sewing workspace to recycle.  From sourcing fabric from other places than the fabric store aisles to reusing fabric from a previously make garment that no longer fits.  I have a collection of fabric scraps and pieces that I patchwork together and use as a new-ish fabric source.  

And we all have button tins, right?  A collection of recycled buttons to be used in a new project down the road.  

Leave a Small Footprint 

The dictionary defines this phrase as "to have a significant or lasting impact on someone or something."  It can also refer to a lifestyle choice minimizing one's ecological impact on the environment and community by reducing resources and space requirements for daily living or sewing.  Simply put, embrace simplicity.   

How to do this?   

• Focus on quality over quantity.  I've recounted so many times on this blog that I fell for those trendy fabrics made from man-made fibers and they are not worth the hype.  I'm thinking of scuba knits as one example.  Natural fiber fabrics will hold up and last longer than any polyester.  
• Maximize the efficiency in your work space to reduce waste.  Could your worktable also work as your cutting table?  How about the space that your sewing machines occupy?  Smaller spaces use less energy.  Mind you, I do dream of a large sewing studio.  Ah, to dream.  But then again, with a smaller space there is no chance the fabric stash can get out of control, right?  

What other suggestions do you have to embrace simplicity at the sewing table?  

August in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Clockwise L to R:  Reversible wool winter jacket (OOP Vogue 2571), cotton patchwork garment cover (no pattern used), cotton knit panties (OOP Simplicity 8229).

Most of the sewing on the reversible winter jacket was done in the previous months.  I didn't finish it before August arrived and I certainly didn't plan on sewing it during the hot summer months.  This project almost took a year to complete from the dreaming about it stage to sewing the last toggle on.  I'm just happy I'll be set for when the cooler weather arrives.  Apparently, we're supposed to have a traditional cold prairie winter with lots of snow.  Woohoo!  I'm not a fan of the summer heat or the insects that thrive in this weather.  

the winter of 2024-25 should see below-normal temperatures for about two-thirds of the nation, from east of the Rockies to Ontario. 

Winter temperatures will be coldest from the Prairies into the Great Lakes region. The coldest outbreak of the season will come during the final week of January into the beginning of February when frigid Arctic air brings a sharp plunge in temperatures especially across the Prairies.  [Source:  Canada Winter Weather Forecast 2024-2025 - Farmers' Almanac (farmersalmanac.com)]

This reversible wool winter jacket and a pair of ski-pants will keep me warm enough to survive this weather outlook.  

Replenishing undergarments have certainly been on my want-to-sew list this month.  The wish to sew a new batch of panties only yielded one pair so far.  Currently all my sewing equipment is put away but once the equipment comes out so will OOP Simplicity 8229.  

As far as alterations, I did spend some time with a seam ripper and try to alter this skirt hoping to make it fit.  But it ended up in the scrap fabric pile instead.  If the skirt couldn't be altered, the plan is to save and reuse the fabric.  

There is a big mending pile that was neglected this summer while I tended to the blessings from the garden and fruit trees.  

Top L to R:  Fruit and custard tart (birthday dessert, recipe from Good Housekeeping Illustrated Book of Desserts), homemade ricotta cheese (because the price of ready made cheese is ridiculous and it is super easy to make cheese, recipe from shelovesbiscotti.com) and apples prepped and ready to make a batch of homemade apple juice (so many recipes found online, take your pick). 
Middle L to R:   this was the summer of pie-making, apple and gooseberry pies (recipes from Good Housekeeping Illustrated Book of Desserts).  
Bottom L to R:  homemade hamburger buns (recipe found online), homemade French bread (recipe from one of the Moosewood cookbook), and gooseberries!, oh my gosh, so many gooseberries that there was even gooseberry jam production.  

With the exception of the ricotta cheese, all of these were shared with others.  The ricotta is saved to use in lasagna which will likely be shared with others.  It was fun and exhausting working in the kitchen but I will admit I miss having some time to sew.  Although, after all that hand-stitching on the winter jacket it was nice to have a bit of a break and let the sore fingers recover.  Maybe now that it's approaching the end of harvest, I might get a chance to tend to that mending pile.  

Stash-busting 

Stash busted this month:

• 4.5 metres fabric + scrap pieces patchworked together to create new fabric yardage
• 2.4 metre elastic
• 5 leather toggles
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 4 thread spools

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 63 metres fabric + scrap pieces patchworked together to create new fabric yardage
• 5 metres of knit binding / trim
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 8 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 leather toggles
• 7.4 metres elastic
• 18 thread spools
• 4.3 metres basting tape

Total additions this year:

• 5 leather toggles
• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 second hand cover stitch machine.  

Happy Sewing!

New Batch of Undies: OOP Simplicity 8229

Simplicity 8229 is now an out-of-print (OOP) pattern.  If you can find it, it is one that I highly recommend.  I've made more than a few pairs of cotton panties for myself and others over the years using this pattern.  It is my absolute go-to and trusted pattern for this project.  

The fabric and elastic are pulled from the stash.  The fabric is a light yellow cotton knit from the now closed Mitchell Fabrics.  The blue picot elastic was sourced from Marshall / Northwest Fabrics many years ago.  

This is the first pair of a batch that I plan to make.  On that note, I should get back to work.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit / Lightening bolt stitch

Seam finish:  Overlock and Cover stitch

Fabric:  0.5 metres (95% cotton, 5% spandex)

Elastic:  2.4 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome coverpro, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Scrap busting: Garment Bag

 

This afternoon I pulled out the scrap pile to create a cotton garment bag for the winter jacket.  It's now safely put away until I need it.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Overlock stitch

Fabric:  variety of left-over scrap pieces (100% cotton)

Pattern:  Self drafted 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, iron, and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!