The Assembly Line: T:205 Oversized Shirt

The fabric for this project is another home décor find. It's a 100% silk plaid fabric and I was smitten at the moment I spotted it. It's been in the fabric stash for years waiting for the perfect pattern to come along.  

Enter The Assembly Line's (TAL) oversized shirt pattern. I actually started this project months ago and then well, life procraftination happened and it fell to the side lines. But I digress... 

After pretreating this silk fabric it lost it's stiffness and felt less like a home decor fabric. It still retained some of its structure but with some much welcomed softness. The pattern pieces were carefully laid out on the cross grain only because I wanted the black stripes in the plaid to run vertically. For the front piece, I placed the pieces as a single layer mindful of the potential of silk to be challenging to cut and the added challenge of matching the plaid. Thankfully, it appears to be worth the extra effort.   

The pattern is an absolutely a keeper. First, this is a well-drafted pattern, the style is so comfortable and I love the fit. BONUS:  IT HAS POCKETS!!!  I placed the upper edge of the pocket six and a quarter inches below the armhole seam but I think next time I may raise it a half or three quarters of an inch higher. Even though I love the fact that this shirt has pockets, my fabric choice makes me question whether I want to use them for more than keeping my hands hidden.  

I did switch something up, the sleeve placket. I'm not a fan of the slit and continuous lap option that is used on this pattern and most women's clothing. Instead, I opted for the tower placket style most commonly found on menswear. And I shortened the length of the sleeve.  Maybe a wee bit more on the next one but for this one, I'm okay with the length and can get away with it just fine. But the next version, I will tweak the sleeve length.   

I do have to applaud The Assembly Line (TAL) for their instructions. They really do a fine job with explaining tailor tacks and other techniques not typically explained on modern North American the Big Four's pattern instructions. TAL's detailed instructions is what makes their patterns quite suitable for beginners and a true treasure. 

Another thing that I did adjust was the seam allowances, I'm just not used to sewing 3/8" seam allowances. I could have easily left the pattern as it was (exception the collar and neckline) and sewed 5/8" seam allowances without compromising the fit. It really is an oversized relaxed fit as described on the pattern.  

Now, the time has come to plan the next version. Perhaps a linen, lengthened into a shirt dress option?   

Project Details

Seams:  2.2 -- 2.4 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Interior seams are serged

Tip:  Cut plaids as a single layer so that they are easier to match.

Fabric:  2.1 metres

Interfacing:  1 metre fusible

Buttons:  11 - 3/8" 

Label:  1 -- "me made" from Kylie and the Machine

Patterns:  The Assembly Line T:205 and Vogue 1503 (sleeve placket pattern piece)

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Flip chart paper, rulers, marker, pencil, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, scissors, thread clippers, serger, sewing machine, walking foot, threads for the machines, new sewing machine needle, silk thread for hand stitching, hand sewing needle, sleeve ham, wooden collar press, measuring gauge, screwdriver, cutting board, hammer, buttonhole cutter and many breaks over a course of months.  

Stay Safe and Happy Sewing!