I've tried a new (to me) men's shirt pattern, Vogue 8889. The one thing that I've noticed about the men's shirt patterns currently offered over at Vogue patterns is that the button-down shirt patterns have become more fitted with shaping detail options. Not one of the pattern selection has a back centre pleat I've been used to sewing. So this experience was quite different to sewing McCall's 2447, my go-to men's shirt pattern over the years.
I chose view C for this project. And my plan was to stick to the pattern instructions while constructing this project but that soon fell to the sidelines.
Flat Felled Seams
The flat-felled seams for this shirt design are lovely. But they were quite fussy as well, I soon became bored with the time investment that this feature demanded especially since I'm on a time crunch with having this finished. It probably didn't help that I'm sewing this while dealing with a sinus infection and my focus and attention span is limited at the moment. Since this type of enclosed seam is typically used when very sturdy finish is required it seemed to work well with the fitted shirt design. The only seams that were not finished using the flat-felled seam technique were the armhole and side seams. For those I finished the seam with the serger.
I did notice that the flat-felled seam instructions that came with the pattern differ slightly from the one found in my vintage Vogue Sewing and Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing books. The vintage sewing books instruct that the fabric should be wrong sides together for the first stitch on the seamline and to sew the felled seam on the right side. The instructions from Vogue 8889 call for the felled seams asks for the right sides together and the felled seam to be seam on the wrong side. On this shirt it looks as it's been topstitched from the right side of the shirt and the enclosed nature of the seam is hidden on the inside.
I did notice that the flat-felled seam instructions that came with the pattern differ slightly from the one found in my vintage Vogue Sewing and Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing books. The vintage sewing books instruct that the fabric should be wrong sides together for the first stitch on the seamline and to sew the felled seam on the right side. The instructions from Vogue 8889 call for the felled seams asks for the right sides together and the felled seam to be seam on the wrong side. On this shirt it looks as it's been topstitched from the right side of the shirt and the enclosed nature of the seam is hidden on the inside.
The Yoke
Vogue 8889 has instructions for a classic shirt yoke with topstitching. Instead, this shirt's yoke has been sewn using the couture method. Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing has this method outlined in it's pages. It's also referred to as the burrito method in online references.
The sleeves have a shirt placket pattern piece that works out perfectly without having to make the "3/8" diagonal clip at [the] inner corner of placket." I would suggest leaving out this step, it really is unnecessary. For sewing the cuffs, I didn't follow the pattern instructions and just did it as I would when sewing McCall's 2447.
There is also a front placket that hides the buttons, this is well designed and easy to complete. I was surprised that it didn't call for interfacing here at first but I have to say, it turned out perfectly.
This design incorporates something called a under collar band. I left it off as I didn't see it as being necessary for the person who will be wearing the shirt. Now that the collar is sewn, I can understand it's function with the narrow width of the collar and how it could perform well in order to hold a necktie in place without peeking under the collar edge. It may as well help the narrow collar to sit better than it does without.
The Placket
The sleeves have a shirt placket pattern piece that works out perfectly without having to make the "3/8" diagonal clip at [the] inner corner of placket." I would suggest leaving out this step, it really is unnecessary. For sewing the cuffs, I didn't follow the pattern instructions and just did it as I would when sewing McCall's 2447.
There is also a front placket that hides the buttons, this is well designed and easy to complete. I was surprised that it didn't call for interfacing here at first but I have to say, it turned out perfectly.
The Collar
This design incorporates something called a under collar band. I left it off as I didn't see it as being necessary for the person who will be wearing the shirt. Now that the collar is sewn, I can understand it's function with the narrow width of the collar and how it could perform well in order to hold a necktie in place without peeking under the collar edge. It may as well help the narrow collar to sit better than it does without.
Other than these small changes, the pattern turned out well. I don't know if I will have an occasion to make another. This shirt is part of a "Dad and Mini-me" set for a client.
The fabric that I used for this shirt was a light weight 100% cotton. It was prewashed at a regular temperature setting and with warm water followed with a tumble in the dryer and a steam pressing. It handled the pre-treatment and pressing well. I didn't notice a lot a shrinkage, minimal actually. Now to get to work on the mini-me version.
The fabric that I used for this shirt was a light weight 100% cotton. It was prewashed at a regular temperature setting and with warm water followed with a tumble in the dryer and a steam pressing. It handled the pre-treatment and pressing well. I didn't notice a lot a shrinkage, minimal actually. Now to get to work on the mini-me version.
The Stats
Fabric: 1.9 metres
Interfacing: .7 metres
Buttons: 14 (the pattern calls for 15 but I left off the under collar piece and didn't use the two required there. An extra button was sewn into the inside of the lower front placket.
Pattern: Vogue 8889
Additional Tools & Supplies: Cutting table, scissors, measuring tape, pins, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, tailor's chalk, pin cushions, collar pointer, clapper, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, buttonhole cutter, serger, threads, hand-sewing needle, tailor's wax, thimble, and a few breaks to think where to go with this project.
Happy Sewing!
I am trying to sew this but I dont understand the flat seams I nearly ended up cutting 6mm from the arm hole. Any tips or video where I can how is done? Thanks
ReplyDeleteOh no! When I do a new-to-me technique I like to practice on a small scrap of fabric first. I did write about flat felled seams back in 2012, here are the links https://sewessentiallysew.blogspot.com/2012/02/flat-felled-seams.html and https://sewessentiallysew.blogspot.com/2012/03/flat-felled-seams-part-ii.html
DeleteI have passed on this shirt pattern and currently do not have it in my stash but I did note that the instructions were well written even though they differ slightly on how the flat felled seams are created from my Vogue Sewing book. Both methods even though they slightly differ work in their description work out well.
This is a link to a youtube video that demonstrates flat felled seams https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQYa7DrmCDg
Good luck with the project! I'm sure it will turn out great.