Happy Easter!

Hallelujah! The housework is done, no Easter dinner to host, no Easter dinner to attend. Hallelujah, Hallelujah, Hall-ll-el-el-u-jah!!! I'm off to enjoy the day. 

  

Colour (Ready), Fabric (Set), and Pattern Pieces (Go)!

Ready, set go! I've started my, Vogue 9229, Vintage dress project for the Vintage Contest over at Pattern Review.

Colour:
Researching 1957 fashion trends it became apparent that even though blue was a popular colour, baby blue was a no-no. Brilliant blues were all the rage in 1957. Oops, that was close!

Fabric:
Sew, my fabric choice quickly changed for sewing the Vogue dress. Luckily, this happened before I cut into the baby blue crepe I originally considered for this project.

The sleeveless dress will now be made in a brown 100% cotton fabric. According to Paper Past, "brown vied with black as the smartest daytime colo[u]r".  I have to admit that brown won out because it also photographs better than black.

Interfacing is listed as optional on this pattern and I've decided to go without interfacing based on the weight of my fabric. This is the first time that I can remember seeing interfacing as an option on a commercial pattern. Mind you I haven't sewn with an authentic vintage pattern prior to this one even though I have several in my stash.

Pattern Pieces:
These vintage pattern pieces are noticeably different from the modern or vintage and retro re-issue patterns we use today.

The first thing that I noticed is the pattern markings. It is a printed and perforated pattern. Very cool! I really like how easy it was to transfer the topstitching and button markings on this dress.

The perforated markings were also found on the seam allowance, interesting. I wonder if this is a common feature of patterns from this time.

Another noticeable difference is that there was no trimming. The pattern pieces, when removed from the envelope, were all separated.

Modern-day patterns have several pattern pieces found on one or more sheets of tissue paper that the consumer has to cut.

And is it just me or do these 1957 pattern instructions remind you of a comic strip?

There is a retro-animated vibe that the instructions have with the text boxes positioned alongside the instructional illustrations.

And if you look closely, they're not as detailed as they first appear.

Insert zipper in left side opening following directions on zipper package.  

Now-a-days zippers do not come in packages that include instructions.  And modern-day patterns, including vintage re-issue patterns have detailed instructions for zipper installation. I'll be using my 1955 Singer Sewing Skills Reference Book for the zipper installation. The Singer Sewing Book goes into great detail on dress zipper application. I found the interior belting to the waist-line seam an interesting feature that I haven't come across in RTW or modern patterns.

"Finish" all seams are included in the sewing guide as a vague suggestion. The only sections where finishing suggestions are given are for the facing and hem.

Other than these, there are no specifics supplied.

I did check out the Singer Sewing Skills Reference Book  to check out what was the norm back in the 1950s.

It seems to be the seam finish of choice was done with pinking shears. Even though I do have access to a pair of pinking shears, I chose to serge the seam allowances on my dress. Don't worry the Pattern Review contest rules state:

Fabrics and techniques do not need to be vintage. However, both are encouraged, if available.  

I did try out the pinking shears on my shoulder seam but it did not cut well. They are in desperate need of sharpening.

Another aspect where this vintage pattern differs from the modern patterns  is the amount of detail given to marking the pattern pieces.

I already mention how much I like the perforated pattern for transferring the top-stitching lines.

I used my tailor's chalk for the job, one of the options on the pattern. But check out the detailed instructions for marking your pattern with Tailor's Tacks!

Well, that is enough chit-chat for this morning. I'm going to make some breakfast (yes, I know it is late), get some house work done, take the bike in to get road-ready and hopefully get back to work on this dress.

Sew much to do and read, sew little time.

Happy Sewing!

Easter Sewing

It is always this time of year that I longingly look at little kids' sewing patterns. I had sewn Easter outfits for my niece and nephews when they were wee ones. That was many moons ago. My brothers and I would hide Easter chocolates around their Grandparents' home where we would gather for a family meal. And I couldn't wait to give the kids the hand made gifts of Easter finery to wear.

Her Easter Bonnet!  

My favourite Easter outfit that I made for my niece was a red floral print cotton dress from McCall's patterns. It had contrasting bias tape that I made and hand stitched in place and cute red flower shaped buttons down the front. I made her a matching hat too. I only have a picture of her wearing her hat.

I loved sewing children clothes for my niece and nephews. And McCall's has some beautiful kids patterns to chose from.

So sew does Vogue! Teresa Layman Designs were not around when my niece was a wee little one and I never made her a smocked dress. I wish I found a pattern like these back in the day.

I've never made a Vogue kids dress either, I was a fan of McCall's kids line of patterns back then. But check out what Vogue has to offer today, they are stunning:

Doesn't smocking and Easter dressing go so well together? How about you, do you have little ones to sew a special Easter outfit for?

Happy Sewing & Easter!

My Quest for Comfortable Shoes

Today's post is about the not so glamourous side of shoes. No, don't worry I'm not going to talk about celebrity bunion woes. It is about my quest for comfortable shoes.

It is tough to find a comfortable and pretty shoe in the mythical size 5 1/2 wide (American size) with good arch support.

May not be pretty, but at least they're comfortable.
 Too bad they are banned at work.  

But now-a-days it is all about comfort since I have an over-pronation that contributes to my knee pain. The cartridge behind my knee cap is worn down and apparently the two are related. Go figure. And I wear knee braces too. Yeah, I'm a real fashion plate.

I've been wearing Birkenstocks and Mephistos because they're so fashionable and go with many of my Vogue pattern looks. I jest. Seriously, I wear them to prevent knee and foot pain since they have good arch support in their footwear. My typical daily footwear used to look like this. Yeah, I know, not pretty but at least they're comfortable.

But now I can't wear these anymore at work. I'm quite sad about this new development. I understand the perspective of it being a safety issue, blah, blah, blah... I'm still sad though.

Apparently, the crack-down on our workplace footwear came about because of the appearance of flip-flops on the workplace scene. Now my Mephistos are banned too because the dress code in the Catholic School handbook states that we must wear "closed-toe shoes".  And that is why I'm mourning the loss of my standby comfortable footwear.  

Josef Seibel boots

It really is a challenging quest to find comfortable footwear. I did find these Josef Seibel boots this fall and they are size 5 1/2 that have perfect width. They are very comfortable but they won't cut it for the warmer weather that is on it's way.

Fly London Mary-Janes

These size 6 Mary-Jane style shoes by Fly London made it into my footwear wardrobe. I bought them because they were on sale even though are a little big in the length. I thought that I could wear tights or socks to fill them in a bit. Sadly, they do not have good arch support. So close. But they will do for short errand runs.

Groundhog Shoes

I love that these Groundhog shoes are environmentally friendly footwear. Bonus! And they are comfortable for short shopping trips and running errands. Not so comfortable for working in a school. My feet ache like nobody's business by the time my day is over.

I've even purchased arch support inserts to see if they work with my shoes but nope. The Fly London and Groundhog shoes both have a wee bit of a heel that don't work with the insert.  

So my quest continues. I long to shop at Rooster and it has, many times, been a detour from the quest. But today, I think there just might be hope. Chatting with my massage therapist this evening she asked if I ever heard of Keen shoes.

"No," I curiously replied.

She informs me that many of her clients rave about these shoes and their arch support. I think I found my shoe that has the arch support and comfort that I desire and which my boss can give the seal of professional approval.

Now, I just have to locate a pair in my size.

In sewing news today...

I went into the fabric store and did not come out with any fabric. Seriously, I'm not kidding.

I will admit that I did wander out of my way towards the discounted fabric section to check out if the raw silk went down in price. Only only one bolt of bright pink fell to 70% off. Luckily, pink is not my favourite colour so I was able to find my way out of the fabric section without being tempted. That was a close call.

Walking out of the fabric store without any fabric is huge for me. And this is all that I walk out with.

Exactly what I went into the store to get, thread for the serger. This thread is to match the fabric my niece picked out for her graduation party dress. And that was it, just thread. I'm so sew proud of myself.

Just saying.

Happy Sewing!

1957 Fashion Trends

I'm working on my dress for the Pattern Review The Vintage Contest. And I'm quite excited about this contest, I chose a Vogue pattern from 1957. I can't find any mention of it on the web or pattern wiki. It is an original printed and perforated pattern with fragile tears on the pattern envelope and the most stunning illustration. I really would love to frame this envelope. The pattern pieces are cut but in excellent condition. 

I'm cutting out the muslin right now and I'm just trying to decide on the fabric. That is where the research is coming in.  

Colour:  

Orange, yellow, brilliant blues and emerald green were the colors most favored by designers. Brown, from caramel to charcoal-brown, vied with black as the smartest daytime color. The vivid red coat and suit continued in popularity, with the electric blue costume rising in importance (Paperpast Yearbook).

I would like to make a smart looking dress in black. I have a beautiful textured black silk fabric sitting in my stash, but black does not photograph well. And I do have that fun orange linen but I was saving that for the bow dress. So Sew, I'm thinking about this blue crepe or maybe a caramel brown cotton, or a navy blue cotton. Hmmm, I'm going to have to think about this one.

I'll leave you with this while I go off to think about this one.

Fashion Star by McCall's

Have you checked out the new pattern line from McCall's? It is called Fashion Star after the name of the most annoying reality television program. Sorry, to anyone who enjoys the show but I'm not entertained by the heavy-on-the-dance music and celebrity/musician turned designer mentors. I only watched two episodes (the second and third) and Yikes!

That said, I do like the first four patterns that McCall's has released under the Fashion Star label. I'm surprised that they didn't chose any of the menswear designs that appeared on the show. Those were fabulous designs.

McCall's 6552: I would never make this maxi dress for myself. But I do think that it looks like a good beginners pattern for someone with the height to pull it off.

McCall's 6553: This one I would make. I would change the back closure to a zipper though.

McCall's 6554: Cute! I like the square neckline, empire waistline and fuller skirt.

McCall's 6556: The dress is not my style (maybe if I were 20 years younger and 30 pounds lighter) but I like the upper back design of the slip (it would be easy to draft my own).

What do you think of this new line of reality television patterns (Project Runway and Fashion Star)? Yea or nah? And what do you think about the absence of the menswear pieces even though the buyers from major retailers on Fashion Star loved them?