July in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

L to R:  silk noil sweatshirt (TAL High cuff top), breast feeding cover (no pattern used, just copied the design and measurements from an Amazon advertisement I was forwarded).  

There was not a lot of actual sewing done this month.  It was a quiet month sewing wise.  Yardwork, back and knee pain, a concussion and procrastination were keeping me from spending time at the sewing machine.  I did however spend a lot of time at the cutting table.  I had help setting up a work space to cut out several large projects that needed to be cut in single layers.  They are stacked up by the sewing machines waiting for a burst of energy and some free time.  

There was a wee bit of mending activity that took place when a small hole was discovered on the rib knit of the silk sweatshirt and some broken stitches were re-stitched on a pajama top.  Nothing ended up on the worktable for alterations.  

Stash Busting

This month I used from the stash 3.8 metres of fabric, two KATM labels and two spools of thread.  There were magnetic snaps purchased and used for the breast feeding cover.  And I did stock up on more KATM labels.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Copy Cat San Francisco Baby Nursing Cover

This project is a request that recently came across the worktable, a baby nursing cover.  From the photo I was sent, I would be guessing at the details but thankfully there were more clues to be found within the advertisement.  

It is listed as 100 x 70 cm and it basically looks like an oversized rectangular shaped apron.  Sounds easy enough.  I had a piece of 100% cotton French terry leftover from these tops that fit the bill.  There was even enough to cut straps.  And the best part is that this piece was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  I was all set to get to work.  

At first, I really didn't get the appeal of this project.  The frugal part of my brain thought why not just use a bath towel or blanket to cover up during breast feeding?  But it's the interior details that I started to "get it."  Yes, having those interior pockets can be helpful for having easy access to a burping cloth or soother for after the baby is fed.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made but sadly not a tariff free sewing project.  I've been trying hard not to avoid American products that could contribute to the convicted felon's economy or tax dodging oligarch's companies.  This is the first project this year that I purchased an American product to complete a sewing project.  

This project was finished with Tailor™ magnetic fasteners.  The package states that it's imported by Rose E Dee International Ltd. and was made in China.  Packaging information can hide some information from consumers but a little online research reveals that Tailor brand sewing notions are indeed an American company, founded in 1907 by professional tailor Frank Wawak.  Since these snaps are made of metal this project was impacted the tariff war.  I could have found a less expensive alternative to these snaps but I was considering the ease that these could provide while breast feeding.  I do like the product, I just don't like the tariffs and if it weren't for a gift project, I would have forgone this notion at this time.  

The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time and was originally found at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads used on the sewing machine and serger were pulled from the stash and included some Coats and Clark threads that I'm trying to clear out of the stash.    

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Label:  "Made with Love" by KATM

Snaps:  2--25 mm magnetic 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, Jean-a-ma-jig™, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, computer research, chai latte and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.   

Raw Silk Sweater: The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

While waiting for out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 to arrive, I have kept myself busy by revisiting The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern since the toile turned out well.  Here is my silk version.  

There is something special involved with sewing with a natural fibre fabric.  As well as wearing it.  Sadly, the fabric stores and even the stores selling RTW clothing are filled with man-made fibre fabrics.  It's a rare treat to sew and wear raw silk.  Locally, Fabricland currently sells raw silk but at $80 (Cdn) / metre, it's a luxury fabric that is not in today's budget.  This is a re-sell piece pulled from the stash. 

This project was sewn with the same modifications made with the toile version.  The sleeve length was shortened three inches.  The shoulder bands and armhole seams are sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams were sewing with the recommended 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made project that wasn't hit by tariffs.  Everything used in the making of this top were from non-American retailers and purchased prior to the economic war on Canada and insulting annexation rhetoric.  

The medium weight silk fabric was a previously owned piece found at Winnipeg Sews.  Winnipeg Sews sadly closed down six months ago.  Some how it seems longer than six months but I digress.  The rib knit came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  

After stitching the lower band, I noticed a tiny hole in the back.  Of course, it was on the right side of the garment.  Drats!  I didn't notice this flaw when cutting out the pattern piece and wonder if it became damaged during the sewing process.  Oh well, it won't be noticed when worn, just a quick couple of hand stitches and the hole was closed.  

The sewing pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish company.  The Coats and Clark threads used on the sewing machine and serger were from the stash.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabrics:  2.5 metres of silk and 0.6 metres of rib knit

Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater S:202

Label:  "Bespoke" KATM sewing label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, assorted objects used as pattern weights, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, ruler, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, new sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, Chai latte, scoliosis back brace and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today...

I have a reason to break out this pattern, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367.  It's been in my stash since the early 1990s and I've made countless versions of view A over the past thirty plus years.  I am hoping to make more.  

I discovered that the back pattern piece is missing.  Drats!  Last time I made up this project was four years ago, I wouldn't even know where to look for this pattern piece.  Thankfully, I was able to find another copy of this pattern.  This made made me happy, it is such a cute onesie.  Until it arrives, I can get busy pretreating some knit fabrics for this future project.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

 

Happy Canada Day!

This is an important Canada Day as our country continues to be under threat.  It's also a day to be grateful and to count our blessings.  

Canada Day outfit:  Red and white maple leaf print cotton top, OOP Butterick 6325, circa 2020 worn with a white cotton sateen pull-on skirt, The Assembly Line's A-line midi skirt, circa 2024.

I'm grateful that I live in a country that is kind and cares about others.  I am grateful and blessed that I live in a democracy.  I'm blessed to live in a diverse and generous country.  Even though Canadians may disagree with each other from time-to-time, for the most part we're respectful and stand together as a nation.  I am blessed to live in a country that cares about the environment and takes care of our national parks.  I am grateful for a country that has healthcare.  I am grateful for the community organizations that care of the poor, those without food and those that need help.  I am grateful for governments and community members that work towards ending homelessness and affordability issues.  I am grateful for the beauty that this country has to offer from it's vibrant urban centres to the rural and northern communities.  I'm am grateful for clean water and a place to call home.  I am blessed that I get to live in a country that has four distinct seasons.  I am grateful that I get to enjoy the beauty of the first snowfall at the start of each winter season.  I am grateful for Canada.  

Happy Canada Day!