Tuesday, 7 May 2019

Hybrid Shirt: McCall's 7904

I've been on the hunt for a comfortable white shirt for quite some time. It's been challenging getting to this point because of my specific wants and needs for this item. Of course, fit is key and finding a shirt pattern that fits has been almost as difficult as fitting pants. When you're short petite there is always some adjustments to be made.

My "perfect shirt" criteria
  1.  It must have a collar band and collar.
  2.  Sleeve placket and pleats.  No gathers at the cuff.  
  3.  A long sleeve that fits my petite arms without having to push or roll them up.  
  4.  No cheaping out on the quantity of buttons.  
  5.  No dropped shoulders.
  6.  No chest pockets.
  7.  No pulling across the mid-section and hip area while still fitting in the bust.  
  8.  Made out of white cotton or linen fabric.  
And I now have my perfect shirt.  

The Pattern(s)

I found McCall's 7904 to be an intriguing option with the loose-fitting description and I did like that it offered hemline variations. I was, however, looking for a pattern for a basic white shirt that would provide enough ease around my mid-section so I didn't play around with one of the asymmetrical hemlines this time around. I also liked the tissue fitting method advertised on the pattern envelope. This is a great pattern for anyone who may need pattern adjustments before cutting out their fashion fabric. There are pattern markings to make a sway back adjustment, something that I've never seen on a commercial pattern before. It even has markings if you need to do broad shoulder or bust adjustments to the pattern. And I really enjoyed the pro tips offered in the instructions. Even though this pattern is rated average, I would recommend it for a beginner skill level since the instructions are thoughtfully written.  

Vogue 1503 sleeve pattern. 

I wasn't sold on the design of the sleeves though. I'm not a fan of a gathered sleeve into the cuff and after sewing Vogue 9329, I didn't want to sew another back sleeve seam detail. Instead, I swapped sleeve and cuff pattern pieces with Vogue 1503 and sewed a sleeve placket with sleeve pleats. So this is what makes it my hybrid shirt made using pattern pieces from McCall's 7904 and Vogue 1503.

The Fabric

This is a cotton fabric with some stretch and it was the last of the bolt found at Northwest Fabrics. The fabric was pretreated with a machine wash and tumble through the dryer. I don't think I will be putting the finished shirt in the dryer in the future though. I think I will just let it hang dry and give it a press. It handled pressing at the cotton setting without any issues.  

The Stats

Fabric:  2 metres 

Interfacing:  1.6 metres (fusible interfacing)

Buttons:  11 

PatternsMcCall's 7904 and Vogue 1503

Tools & Additional Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, thread clippers, sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, buttonhole cutter, tailor's wax, serger, coverstitch needle, tweezers, screwdriver, hand sewing needle and tea.  

Happy Sewing!


  1. This is awesome! I still haven't found the nerve to combine patterns :)

  2. Really? I'm surprised as I'm so in awe of your sewing skills. It's easy, I just check that the sleeve cap will fit in the armhole while the pattern pieces are flat. So far, no adjustment issues to contend with before going ahead.


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