April in Review...

Sewing:

Woo Hoo!  It looks like I accomplished a lot this month but to be completely honest that coat, the biggest project I blogged about took a lot time to finish and most of the work was done fifteen minutes at a time (and pain meds) over last month.  

Clockwise (Top L to R):  Green knit lace panties, Simplicity 8229; cotton dress, Simplicity 2372; blue wool coat, Vogue 9219; cotton knit pullover dress, McCall's 6886; back ruffled A-line dress, Vogue 9237; and cotton jacket, Simplicity 2372.

This month was all about easy sewing projects as I negotiated sitting comfortably, recovery / physio exercises, job hunting, soul searching, and searching for my sewing mojo.  

RTW & Fabric Fast:

The ready to wear fast is just like Carolyn from Handmade by Carolyn once said, it get easier as time goes on. I was proud to report on Fashion Revolution day that 

.

It felt good to realize that most of my clothes are hand-made and fit better than anything I can find at the stores. I still have some fitting techniques to learn but that is the fun part of the journey.

The fabric fast once again proved to be challenging as I fell pry to some beautiful cotton knits and that black and gray fabric that I used to make Mama R's dress. That cut of fabric was purchased last year but I picked up another piece for me when I spotted in the discounted section of the store. I'm thinking about making another Lynn Mizono dress.  

I have yet to complete one month without purchasing any fabric and just "shop" from my fabric stash. Oh my that sounds disappointing, but I'm willing to give it another try this month. On a positive note, I've resisted purchasing any couple books or fabric store memberships. Baby steps.

The Stats:

Supplies	Quantity Used from the stash this Month	Quantity Used this Year	Added to the Stash this year
Basting Tape	0.50 metres	2.72 metres	0
Bias Tape	1.3 metres	3.1 metres	0
Buttons	6	28	42
Chain		0	0
Cord Stopper		0	0
Elastic	2.8 metres	8.3 metres	6 metres
Fabric	15.8 metres	46.8 metres	42.5 metres
Fusible Tape	2 metres	12 metres	0
Hand needles	1	2	0
Hook and Eyes		0	0
Interfacing	3 metres	5.3 metres	6 metres
Lace trim		2.6 metres	0
Pattern (new)	4	9	11
Pattern (previously used--TNT)	2	8	0
Ribbon		0	0
Serger needles		0	0
Serger thread		3	12
Sewing machine needles	2	2	0
Snaps	5	5	0
Thread	2	9	18
Trim	1.2 metres	2 metres	7 metres
Velcro		0	0
Zipper	2	4	3

Happy Sewing! 

Sometimes You Just Need to Sew For Others

Sewing for Mama R brought back my sewing mojo. I'm so thrilled with how this turned out.  

If you're having a moment of déjà vu don't be alarmed, it's another dress made with trusty Simplicity 2372. Hmm, maybe it's sewing something familiar that sparked my sewing mojo? 

Back to the dress, my favourite part of this dress is the patched pockets, they're lined. I haven't typically lined most of her pockets in the past. I should though, they feel wonderful and give the pockets a neater look. Besides adding lined patched pockets, the typical changes to the pattern were made, eliminate the centre front seam, insert an invisible zipper at the centre back, lengthen the sleeves, shorten the hem length and raise the neckline.  

And I made a matching jacket. This is only the second time I've made her a matching set using this pattern. No pockets on this piece. The length on the jacket was shortened by three inches and the sleeves were shortened an inch. No loop and button added and the centre back pleat was eliminated.  

The best part of this outfit has to be the quality of the fabric. It is a medium weight twill weave in a 100% cotton. I found this fabric at Fabricland last year and it is currently in the discounted home decor section. It also comes in blue and orange. It was pretreated with a tumble through the wash and dryer and a good steam pressing before it hit the cutting table. It handled a pretreatment process without any issues and sewed beautifully. Would you believe that I was able to squeeze these two pieces with just over three metres of fabric. 

The Stats:  

Fabric:  3.2 metres 

Interfacing:  1.2 metres of fusible interfacing

Zipper:  22" invisible zipper

Thread:  polished off one spool of thread 

Pattern:  Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, threads for the machines and hand-stitching, needle, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, blind hem foot, seam ripper, cutting table, pins, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, good tunes, lots of breaks to stretch and make tea and what not. 

Happy Sewing!  

 

Day 2 Photo Challenge: Positive Changes

For my photo challenge today I have to acknowledge Peter Lappin's blog [Male Pattern Boldness] post from 2012. This post set me on a reading journey that I didn't think would lead into a collection of books on fashion. It all started with Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion and it didn't stop there.   

These books have shaped and changed my view on sewing and consumption since reading Cline's book. Without this kick in the pants these books, Thanks Peter, I don't know if I would have participated in RTW Fasts prior to gaining this knowledge. I'll admit, the RTW Fast have been challenging, especially in the beginning but it has forced me to try to sew items that I have previously feared. These books are not easy reads, they're heartbreaking but they will open your mind to positive changes.   

Happy Sewing!

Is Green the New Black?

Today is the forth anniversary of the tragedy at Rana Plaza. On this day in 2013, one thousand one hundred thirty-three (Laverne, Michael, Fitting Fashion:  Rethinking the Way We Make, Market and Buy Our Clothes) people died when the factory building where they were working collapsed in Dhaka, Bangladesh. International attention focused on the cheap fast-fashion clothing produced by many of those who died. As international attention grew, it gave birth to the Fashion Revolution movement which asked questions and raises issues of worker's rights and the fractured fashion supply chain. Fashion Revolution would like us to ask and investigate one question today, "Who made my clothes?"

Necklace made from up cycled clothing labels and wool, cotton
knit top (Vogue 9056), and black wool pants (OOP Vogue 1325)

In a 2013 article, Ryerson School of Fashion professor, Osmud Rahman acknowledged "the average person doesn't have enough information at hand about where and how their clothing is made." It's not just the clothing, the same can be asked of the raw materials that are used to make our clothing. The stories behind ready-to-wear clothing are not just the stories of the garment workers sitting at a sewing machine but also the farmers growing textile crops, the scientists working on new textiles and the people decorating our fabrics with dyes and chemicals.

I can say that I make my own clothes but I honestly can not tell you much about a majority of the supplies I use to make my clothes. Fabric stores are selling fabrics that are labelled and marketed as organic but not much more. There is little transparency in labels to back that up or list the material's organic percentage. And it is rare that I stumble on a fabric's country of origin unless I'm buying high quality wools from Italy or England.

There is so much to learn about our supply chain and the materials that end up in our sewing tables. I have to admit, I've made mistakes through my own ignorance when purchasing lesser quality fabrics. But I hope to continue to learn and educate myself and cherish the work of those who share their craft rather than fall pry to marketing of fashion fashion trends.

So who made your clothes? As if I have to ask on a sewing blog. And what tough questions do you ask on this day?

Happy Sewing!

Kitschy Home Decor Dress

This is my kitschy home decor dress made with Vogue 9237. Don't you think that this print just screams spring?

I found this 100% cotton fabric at the home decor department at Fabricland. It is a medium weight cotton. I have to admit that I do enjoy shopping in the home decor department. On several occasions I have found lovely cottons and silks that I've used to make clothing. This medium weight cotton is no exception. Yes, I do like the Parisian look with it's upscale simplicity but I also get a kick out of a kitschy look now and then. A pair of espadrilles and I'll be ready to go once the weather warms up. The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer and a steam pressing before I got to work cutting out Vogue 9237.  

It is my first time working on this pattern so I basically cut it out of the envelope except for adding three inches to the length. The back button and loop was replaced with an eight inch invisible zipper and it was after I sewed the shoulder seams I realized that the neckline was not for me.  

If I didn't already install the zipper I would have widened the neckline all around. The 1 1/2" lowered in the front worked but if I were to make another one would like to add an longer zipper. Maybe it's the back injury but I find this fitted at the bust area and think it might be easier to get out of if the opening had a more generous opening. 

The dress is cut as a medium (12-14). I would agree with the "loose-fitting" description only in the lower half of this design, across the bust and the sleeves I wouldn't consider it loose-fitting at all. 

I'm out of practice sewing set in sleeves and had to go back and smooth over a few spots. Thankfully, it worked out in the end because I really like these sleeves. I wish I cut a size small at the armhole though but that is just a minor complaint.  

Love the pockets on this dress! It has side seam pockets and they are the perfect shape. So happy with those pockets and the gathers in the back, swoon. Those gathers are the reason I picked up this pattern. I'm glad I did.   

  

The Stats:

Fabric:  2.5 metres 100% cotton

Zipper:  8" (20 cm) invisible zipper

Bias tape:  1.3 metres of single fold tape

Basting Tape:  21" length double sided tape

Pattern:  Vogue 9237

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Iron, ironing board, cutting table, pins, sewing machine, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, serger, threads, tailor's ham, tailor's sleeve, scissors, thread clippers, seam ripper, vary form curve ruler, sewing gauge, coffee, good tunes, breaks to stretch and do physio exercises, breaks to stand up and walk around, breaks to eat biscotti cookies and warm up coffee.  Yes, lots of breaks!  

Happy Sewing!

Neckline Fitting Issues

Vogue 9237 presented some neckline fitting issues. It may be the changes that I made to the pattern that has contributed to the I-feel-like-I'm-choking feeling of this jewel / round neckline.  

The pattern calls for a button and loop closure at the centre back but instead I installed an invisible zipper. And now there is the issue of wrinkles across the base of the front and back neck suggesting that the neckline is too high.  

The plan is to establish a new neckline shape. Since there is a zipper at the centre back seam most of the reshaping will have to start away from the zipper and increase towards the centre front. Or maybe the issue can be solved by letting out the shoulder seam a bit at the neck edge tapering to the 5/8" seam allowance at the armhole edge.  

Something to think about for now. Until tomorrow... 

Happy Sewing!  

Planning for Some Spring Sewing!

The new Vogue patterns that I ordered arrived last week. And in the pile is a very easy Vogue that might be the ticket to kick-start my sewing mojo. Vogue 9237 is a loose-fitting dress with a gathered back feature.  

It might not so much be the simple design of this dress but this fabric that could be what my sewing mojo needs to turn in it into sewing mo-joy.  Oh goodness, that was really cheesy. My bad.  

I plan to make it up in this 100% cotton that I found in the stash. I picked it up last year with plans to make Mama R a dress but she didn't care for the print or colours. I on the other hand, think it's a fun print. This might just be the project that works at getting my focus and sewing mojo back. I'm just working on pre-treating the fabric before I get to work on this one later today.  

Happy Sewing!  

Easing Back Into the Sewing Room With an Easy McCall's Pattern

I'll admit I was looking for an easy project and McCall's 6886 fit into my plans perfectly. The biggest challenge was deciding which knit fabric to pick from my stash. I really would like a black knit dress but I wasn't willing to cut into my piece of black knit before first trying out this pattern.  

So, this project is my wearable toile. 

I have to say that I do like this pattern. I haven't perfected the fit yet so I won't be cutting into that black knit anytime soon. For now, I have a comfortable midi-length knit dress which feels like I'm wearing a nightgown.  And goodness knows I would live in my pajamas if I could get away with it... this dress just might be the closest I come to that dream.  

There are only three pattern pieces, perfect to try and kick-start my mojo. I cut the pattern as a size 14 at the armhole, shoulders and neckline grading up to the largest size at the hips. I found that I had to make a correction removing some of that width after I tried it on. I was trying to avoid the close-fit around my mid-section and hips but I over-estimated the ease I needed to add.  

I cut the full length and then shortened it by two inches and then turning it up one inch. The sleeves were cut as the three-quarter length which look like full length sleeves. The hems were finished with Knit 'N Stable tape as well as the neckline before they were turned over and top-stitched.  

The fabric has been in my stash for years. I found this piece at Northwest Fabrics and it has a good weight and thickness to it but will still be cool enough for warmer summer days. I didn't pre-treat it. My bad. Okay, I'm still trying to find my sewing mojo, pre-treating wasn't high on my priority list. I cut it with the stripes running vertically because I didn't have enough to cut it horizontally. Bet you thought I was trying to avoid matching the stripes? Well, not much else to say about this project besides the stats.


The Stats:

Fabric:  2 metres cotton / lycra knit

Knit 'N Stable tape:  2 metres

Pattern:  McCall's 6886

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, tweezers, thread, cutting table, pins, iron, ironing board, sleeve ham, and coffee.

Happy Sewing!  

I Didn't Give Up...

In my mind there is a difference. If I gave up, Vogue 9814 would be put aside instead in the trash. That skirt pattern that I've been wanting to make since I got my hands on it has been too much for my non-existent sewing mojo. 

After my second mistake sewing this pattern up I realized that I'm just not feeling the love for this fabric and I don't think its worth the work to spend some time taking apart this seam.  

Yup, I sewed the front sides together instead of sewing the front centre seam. It wasn't my first mistake on this project. I also sewed the right side of the pocket facing to the wrong side of the pocket. And instead of seam ripping it and starting over, I trashed the pockets as well and decided to make it without. Yeah, I love pockets. That had to be a sign that this project was doomed.  

There's a part of me that felt bad about trashing this project and then I remembered that a former colleague asked for scraps of fabric and I did rescue it in hopes that it will find a new life. 

I sure miss my sewing mojo.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.2 metres

Twill Tape:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  Vogue 9814

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, threads, pins, pin cushion, cutting table, scissors, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's chalk, and an admission of defeat.  

Happy Sewing!  

Reclaiming My Sewing Mojo

My sewing mojo has really taken a hit during these recent months. Nothing like an injury to make one lose their appetite for food and sewing. My appetite for food is back but I still need to reclaim my sewing mojo.  

I've tried rearranging my workspace.  

And I've even tried a bit of sewing on this vintage skirt pattern. But I'm just not feeling the love for this project right now. Maybe it's the mystery fabric I'm working with or perhaps the chocolate brown colour that I don't find all that inspiring. Or perhaps it is the fear of sewing a regular old zipper installation after years of sewing invisible zippers. Am I out of practice?  

Or maybe it is that bin of cut and unfinished projects waiting to be chosen as the next project?  

Maybe... I need something completely different to reclaim my sewing mojo?  

In Sewing News Today...

Can you believe there are no new Vogues to be found in the city yet? Thankfully, there is a Vogue Pattern sale currently on right now (ends tonight). I was able to pick up a few and would you believe even with the exchange rate and shipping costs, I saved more money than if I were to buy them here with a 40% off Fabricland membership discount?

Fabricland is the only store that carries Vogues. My membership ran out at the end of March so I would actually have to dish out the membership cost as well. And I really don't want to renew the Fabricland membership. I really need to sew from the overflowing stash. But I digress... Do you want to see what I picked up?  

Tom & Linda Platt's Vogue 1544 is a dress pattern that I want to make in a silk. I'll make a toile before I cut into the fabric I have in mind for this project. I just need to search the stash for some lining fabric.  

Paco Peralta's Vogue 1550 is the pattern that I can't wait to get my hands on and the reason I recently drove down to my local Fabricland store looking for the new Vogues. I have orange and dark blue linen in my fabric stash for this project.  

Marcy Tilton's Vogue 9254 is making it into the pattern stash just because I like it. I have no idea what fabric I want to make it out of yet. I'm sure there is something in the fabric stash.  

Vogue 9237 is my ideal of a perfect summer dress and I have some lovely cottons that would work for this project. I just need to decided on which one.

Right now I have a Rachel Comey pattern on the cutting table that should keep me busy until these arrive.  

Happy Sewing!  

Spring Cleaning

I've been on a bit of a purge lately. Or I guess you can say, I've been doing some serious spring cleaning. Big on my list is my wardrobe.

Fashion Revolution and Earth Day are around the corner and the type of fabric that's lurking in my wardrobe also has me re-thinking what I sew. If I'm going to invest time sewing my own wardrobe I want natural fibres, I always have. It is what I swoon over and feel most comfortable in. So, that has been another guiding factor--no more pill-prone fabrics. And get rid of the ill-fitting stuff.  

Now that the seasons are changing it's time to pack away the winter coats and dig out the spring attire. I am so pleased with how well the Marcy Tilton coats, Vogue 8934, held up when the winter weather put them to the test. These items are a keeper.

As I was putting away the winter coats I came across a vintage jacket, circa 1940/50's. I've only worn it once since picking it up a couple of years ago and it wasn't this past winter. The real value of this jacket came in those priceless vintage details that I borrowed and made part of my Vogue 8934 winter coats.

The jacket made from real lambswool is quite heavy but I don't want to completely say goodbye to it. Instead, I'm would like to up-cycle the fabric into a muff, OOP Vogue 9963 for next winter's wear. I always wanted a muff. And it would be fun to take a peak inside the construction. I'll have to take pictures and share the details when the time comes.

Now that my wardrobe is not dictated by recess duties I can say good-bye to this one as well. I only picked this ready-to-wear down-filled coat for the job that required hours of outdoors time each week. It was not at all flattering on but it was warm as roaring bonfire and it served it's purpose at the time. I won't miss wearing this one because of the memories (I was wearing this when I injured myself) but maybe it can keep someone else warm next winter.

2.  The underwear drawer was packed with knickers that didn't make the rotation since I gained some weight and goodness only knows why I was packing them away. With a perfect go-to panties pattern, Simplicity 8229, it was time to declutter that drawer.  

3.  This blue outfit was a favourite because it was so comfortable to wear. I haven't worn it since the beginning of the school year when a student threw up all over this outfit. Not one of my fondest memories that this outfit tends to bring up. (Pun not intended.) Even though it has been cleaned and looks perfectly fine I haven't been able to stomach putting it back on. Time to pack this one up.

And there are other pieces of clothing that have been in my closet that I don't like (pink for specific colour days) or have been ruined at work. I kept them in rotation just because of the nature of the job. Those will also be finding a new home.

4.  And shoes, oh goodness. I really need to re-think the footwear that can make or break my back, not to mention my knees. I packed up my Browns clogs and sent them on their way to the charity shop. That hurt, I like those clogs but I like my health more.  There might be others that see the same fate.

So, there you have it, the reason why the sewing has slowed down around here.  I'm just reassessing my wardrobe needs and wants. I hope to be back sewing soon. I need some interview worthy tops and I have a Fashion Revolution project that I want to wear to the March for Science.

How about you, do you wardrobe edit from time-to-time?

Happy Sewing!

Happy National Tartan Day!

Did you know that today is tartan day? Yes, a day to celebrate beautiful plaid fabrics. Well unless you're in Australia or New Zealand when, I do believe, it is celebrated in July. And did you know that Canada has their own tartan?   

It's called the maple leaf tartan and is the one featured in the centre. On the outer edges of the maple leaf tartan all of the provinces and two territories are represented, even Quebec! Only the territory of Nunuvat isn't represented with an official registered tartan.  

{Source}

Back in the nineteen seventies when the Northwest Territories (NWT) officially adopted their tartan the region now known as Nunavut was part of the Northwest Territories. On April 1, 1999 Nunavut separated from the NWT and became their own territory. That is how we have one region in Canada without an official tartan featured on the tartans of Canada map. 

So, there you have it a little history lesson on one of the fabrics (and culture) that plays a role in our multi-cultural landscape. If you want to learn more about Canadian tartans check out this website. There is some interesting information about the colours featured in each tartan and what regional significance it represents. 

A few years ago Fabricland carried provincial tartans in their stores. Even though I do love a plaid, I haven't intentionally sewn with a tartan fabric.  

How about you? Have any tartan fabrics found its way into the sewing workspace?  

Happy Sewing!   

New Sewing Machine!

Okay, not brand spanking new. More like vintage, built-like-a-tank, and can't-believe-it-works new sewing machine!  

I'm so thrilled to have this one, it needs a little tender lovin' care and a new sewing machine needle but other than that, it's perfect. 

It came with attachments, extra bobbins, and working light bulbs. Bonus!   

The buttonhole feature is what has me over-the-moon excited because I can make it any length of buttonhole that I want, squeal!  

I have a button that I've wanted to put on the cream coloured jacket I made a few years ago. I couldn't because the automatic buttonhole foot for my Janome machines wasn't able to accommodate the size of the button. I have some big plans for this machine. 

It almost makes me forget how I got a 30% discount on it as well.  

The clerk at the cash asked if I were a senior because it was senior's day. 

Sarcastically, I answered, "yes" thinking that I would be asked for identification. And then an apology would occur. But I wasn't asked for identification. [insert moment of shock denial.] If I weren't so excited about the sewing machine, I would have been horrified. Today was the first time that someone had questioned if I was older than I actually am. And it was the second time today. This morning someone asked if I were retired while waiting for my car. Not exactly a great day for the ego. Maybe I need to start wearing make-up when I go out in the public sphere? Thankfully, it was a much better day for sewing machine shopping.  

Happy Sewing!  

Happy National Tweed Day!

Yes, it is National Tweed Day! I might be thinking about spring sewing and sitting on the edge of my seat for the new Summer Vogue patterns to hit the stores and/or go on sale. But shall we take a moment to swoon over some tweed in honour of this day?  

Vivienne Westwood Heart shaped collar Tweed blazer
{Source}

This day of honouring tweed fabric comes at a time when it is still nippy outside. Perfect for a good tweed jacket. The fabric blocking on this Vivienne Westwood blazer is beautiful.   

{Source}

Or how about a tweed handbag? 

So what is it about tweed that makes it so special that it calls for it's own special day? 

Well, tweed encompasses a wide range of rough textured, sturdy wool fabrics characterized by fibre-dyed, marked with spots of colour effects. Originating from Scotland, this fabric's colour effects were traditionally vegetable dyed yarns. Harris Tweeds is the most famous of tweed for its traditional hand crafted wool fabric.   

Chanel Suit {Source}

Coco Chanel, after discovering the exquisite qualities of tweed, played a part in making this a highly sought-after fabric using it in her iconic cardigan jacket. There is a lot of celebrate about tweed. It's a fabric rich with history and upholds a quality that is sadly becoming rare in a marketplace filled with wool blends and man-made fibres.    

Is there any celebratory tweed sewing going on in your workroom?  

Happy Sewing!  

Fancy Pant[ie]s

I swear, I'm never ever buying panties again now that I have Simplicity 8229. This pattern is on its way to being a go-to item for knicker-making.  

This latest pair is made in a lace stretch fabric and the elastic used at the legs has a pleated edge. They're my fancy pant[ie]s! 

The lace fabric, pleated elastic and the beige cotton used for the crotch lining were all Fabricland finds. The waistband was finished with beige picot elastic that I found at Northwest Fabrics. I wish I picked up more of the beige picot elastic when I had the chance. Oh well. I picked up plenty of the pleated elastic and have enough green lace to make another pair.  

The Stats:  

Fabric:  0.7 metres of stretch lace and cotton knit

Elastic:  2.8 metres of pleated and picot elastics

Pattern:  Simplicity 8229

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, 100% polyester thread for the machines, cutting table, scissors, thread clippers, tweezers, pins, pin cushion, iron, ironing board, wrist brace, and some good tunes.  

Happy Sewing!