Wednesday, 12 November 2014

A Pop of Yellow

Stash-busting 2014:  Pleated Neckline Jacket

Fabric:    2.3 metres

Pattern:   Vogue 1385

Take II 

First version
This is my second attempt at this jacket, Vogue 1385. The pattern is actually for a top and the pattern envelope line drawings and photograph show it as a top. However, hidden inside the instructions there is this little tidbit written by Sandra Betzina.
While I initially designed this pattern as a blouse, my last version was in a lightly quilted satin, which I made in the shorter length.  I eliminated all vertical waist darts, which made it boxy--great for those who do not have a waist.  I eliminated the pleat detailing at the bottom of the sleeve, eliminated all closures and left the coat unlined.  I love it!
There's a picture of the said jacket in Vogue Pattern magazine that appeared earlier this year and Shams also has photographs of it on her blog. I think it is a stunning garment and that is why I picked up this pattern.   

When I made this jacket the first time I cut it out in the wrong size. I'm still kicking myself for that blooper. Not too hard mind you because I learned a few things along the way.  
  1.  Don't sew when you're tired.   
  2.  Sometimes it pays to take your time.  
I transferred all the markings with chalk when I made the first version. And I did that again with this version.  

I found that the chalk markings faded on the first version as I worked so I took the time to then baste those chalk marking in a contrasting coloured thread.  

It was worth the time investment when it came to stitching the neckline darts and pleats.

This time I cut the pattern in size C, whereas the first was cut in size A. This time the fit was much more comfortable but I will say that I do find the sizing a bit on the small side. Even though the measurements on the pattern envelope states that C has a bust measurement of thirty-six, I couldn't imagine it as a button front top without adjusting the fit. As a jacket without the vertical darts and buttons I can live with the fit but I certainly won't be using this pattern as a top.

I also cut the jacket as view B, the longer length. I couldn't pull off the look to I shortened it by seven and a half inches.  The sleeves I lengthened by two inches for a full length sleeve and both the jacket and sleeve have one inch hems. 

This fabric is a recent addition to the stash. I couldn't resist when it went on sale for a second time. The pop of yellow that runs though this 100% polyester fabric I just found irresistible. The only drawback is that it frayed like nobody's business so I had to work fast! The upside to that is that I have a new jacket to wear.  

Happy Sewing!  


  1. That fabric is fabulous and the jacket suits it perfectly.

    1. Thank you, I'm happy with the fabric and how the pleats hold up and that pop of yellow.

  2. WOW!!! This is a stunner Graca!!

  3. This is fabulous and I love your fabric choice. Is it a home dec print? It is just perfect. I am also in the middle of making this, doing three muslins, whew! I also went by my bust measurement but for me it was beyond huge. So then I went with my usual size and did an FBA and now it fits. Hope mine looks half as good as yours!

    1. Yes, I should have mentioned that in the post. It is a fabric that I found in the home decor section of the fabric store. It is a Wilmington Jacquard (145 cm wide). I found it at Fabricland and it recently appeared a month or two ago.

  4. Beautiful coat! Truly unique. I love using fabrics from the decor section too.


McCall's 7630: Pullover Top

It's an easy sewing project for a loose-fitting pullover top. It's my second go with this pattern and I still want to make another ...