Wednesday, 12 November 2014

A Pop of Yellow

Stash-busting 2014:  Pleated Neckline Jacket

Fabric:    2.3 metres

Pattern:   Vogue 1385

Take II 

First version
This is my second attempt at this jacket, Vogue 1385. The pattern is actually for a top and the pattern envelope line drawings and photograph show it as a top. However, hidden inside the instructions there is this little tidbit written by Sandra Betzina.
While I initially designed this pattern as a blouse, my last version was in a lightly quilted satin, which I made in the shorter length.  I eliminated all vertical waist darts, which made it boxy--great for those who do not have a waist.  I eliminated the pleat detailing at the bottom of the sleeve, eliminated all closures and left the coat unlined.  I love it!
There's a picture of the said jacket in Vogue Pattern magazine that appeared earlier this year and Shams also has photographs of it on her blog. I think it is a stunning garment and that is why I picked up this pattern.   

When I made this jacket the first time I cut it out in the wrong size. I'm still kicking myself for that blooper. Not too hard mind you because I learned a few things along the way.  
  1.  Don't sew when you're tired.   
  2.  Sometimes it pays to take your time.  
I transferred all the markings with chalk when I made the first version. And I did that again with this version.  


I found that the chalk markings faded on the first version as I worked so I took the time to then baste those chalk marking in a contrasting coloured thread.  


It was worth the time investment when it came to stitching the neckline darts and pleats.


This time I cut the pattern in size C, whereas the first was cut in size A. This time the fit was much more comfortable but I will say that I do find the sizing a bit on the small side. Even though the measurements on the pattern envelope states that C has a bust measurement of thirty-six, I couldn't imagine it as a button front top without adjusting the fit. As a jacket without the vertical darts and buttons I can live with the fit but I certainly won't be using this pattern as a top.

I also cut the jacket as view B, the longer length. I couldn't pull off the look to I shortened it by seven and a half inches.  The sleeves I lengthened by two inches for a full length sleeve and both the jacket and sleeve have one inch hems. 


This fabric is a recent addition to the stash. I couldn't resist when it went on sale for a second time. The pop of yellow that runs though this 100% polyester fabric I just found irresistible. The only drawback is that it frayed like nobody's business so I had to work fast! The upside to that is that I have a new jacket to wear.  

Happy Sewing!  


9 comments:

  1. That fabric is fabulous and the jacket suits it perfectly.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, I'm happy with the fabric and how the pleats hold up and that pop of yellow.

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  2. WOW!!! This is a stunner Graca!!

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  3. This is fabulous and I love your fabric choice. Is it a home dec print? It is just perfect. I am also in the middle of making this, doing three muslins, whew! I also went by my bust measurement but for me it was beyond huge. So then I went with my usual size and did an FBA and now it fits. Hope mine looks half as good as yours!

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    Replies
    1. Yes, I should have mentioned that in the post. It is a fabric that I found in the home decor section of the fabric store. It is a Wilmington Jacquard (145 cm wide). I found it at Fabricland and it recently appeared a month or two ago.

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  4. Beautiful coat! Truly unique. I love using fabrics from the decor section too.

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