Pullover Dress with Pockets: Butterick 6784

There are a couple of versions of Butterick 6784 cut and ready to sew.  This is my most recent version.  

Why so many?  Butterick 6784, designed by kAtheRine Tilton, is one comfortable dress and it has generously sized pockets.  That's it, right now in my life, dressing is all about comfort and pockets. I'm working on versions that will keep me comfortable in the autumn and winter months.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with stretch that I found in the discounted section of the fabric store last year.  Why this beautiful fabric with this vibrant colour made it to the discounted section is beyond me.  I'm just thrilled it was there when I spotted this fabric.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press prior to cutting.    

This is a well-drafted and fun project to sew.  It's a size medium and the only changes to the pattern was to shorten it two inches and to sew a 1 1/2" hem.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  The fabric was found at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet and was discovered before the convicted felon was voted back into the white house and started his global tariff war.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, circa 2020, was in the stash before the convicted felon won a second term and did not contribute to his tariff economy.  The cotton thread used to sew the dress and the polyester threads used in the serger are Gütermann threads and were purchased from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were picked up at The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company purchased directed from the company.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Label:  1--"Me Made" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin box, fabric scissors, thread clippers, Janome 4190 QDC sewing machine, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board and many breaks.

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Fall Sewing: The Elita Designer Jacket / Top

Cooler temperatures arrived this week as a reminder that autumn will soon be here.  So, when it came to picking the next project from my cut pile, the Elita Designer Top stood out.  This was a quick and easy make and I was able to sew this in an afternoon.  

This is my first Style Arc pattern and it turned out well.  I found this pattern to be well drafted and fun project.  If I were to struggle to find something to complain about it would be the text size of the instructions.  Without glasses, it's a complete blur!  A magnifying glass might come in handy if this weren't an easy to construct garment.  

I decided to omit the ties because I wasn't certain about the fit and if the placement would be good for my petite stature.  I do like how this wears with a brooch and am glad I left off the ties.  I did not do any adjustments to the pattern when I cut it out.  As you can see, I could shorten the sleeve length although I am not bothered by the rolled sleeves.   And maybe the hem length as well, we'll see.  The edges are left raw but I might go back and finish it with the rolled hem feature on my serger.  I didn't top-stitch anywhere on this project.  Instead, I used my clapper and pressed open the seam allowances.  

The fabric suggestions for the Elita Designer Top are ponte, boiled wool and knit jersey.  The fabric used on this project is a boiled wool.  It was pre-treated with a wet towel in the dryer method.  Hopefully that will take care of any shrinkage.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  No equipment, supplies or notions used to create this jacket contributed to the convicted felon's economy.  The fabric was an end-of-the-season find last year from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads are Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project are Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Raw

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Elita Designer Top

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, fabric scissors, paper scissors, assorted heavy objects used as pattern weights, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, iron, ironing board and clapper.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today

Today marks National Little Black Dress Day.  I didn't throw on a LBD but I just want to mark the occasion because it has a deeper meaning behind it other than a fashionable history.  National Little Black Dress day is about raising "awareness of the importance of having a healthy heart and taking essential measures to maintain cardiovascular health."  And this has a connection with sewing.  Sewing is good for a maintaining a healthy heart.  

I can't say that my main motivation for sewing is my heart health but it nice to know that this is yet another benefit associated with a hobby that I enjoy.  

I've sewn many black dresses over the years, some were gifted and some were for myself. Only the black turtleneck has survived the years of weight gain and loss.  Sadly, I shrank it and the length is shorter than I want.  Maybe it might be time to sew another LBD?  

Today also marks National Sewing Month.  I can't find any mention of any specific theme for 2025 which is different from previous years.  No worries, there are many reasons to celebrate our sewing journeys, right?  Whatever reason you chose to celebrate sewing activities, I hope it is a productive and joyful time well spent.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

August in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

This is the most productive I've been at the sewing machine since February.  Back then I also managed to sew six items.  To be completely honest, I'm surprised that I a) found the time and b) had the energy to pull off this many projects from the sewing machine.  Tis the season of yardwork.  But I digress.  It certainly did help that three of the dresses were previously cut and ready to sew.  There are still some more pre-cut projects waiting for some free time.  

In the alteration department, this dress made it back to the work table to have the hemline lowered.  In mending news, the mending pile continues to grow as I discover new breaks in various seams or hand stitching while ironing clothes.  And then it's a quick run to the sewing machine for some repair work because loved clothes last.  It feels like the sewing machine sees more action in the mending department.   

The heating pad needed some attention as it started shedding its filling.  This project was hand stitched mending job I couldn't put off any longer.  Nothing fancy, it was a quick get it done and forget about making it pretty job.  

What to Wear?  

I'm asking that question once again as I'm trying to adjust to wearing a night scoliosis brace.  I'm trading in my pajama tops for padded t-shirts.  There might be the need to add some more t-shirts into rotation, maybe with longer sleeves for those cooler nights that are certainly coming in the next couple of months.   

Stash busting

This past month, I managed to stash bust 13.9 metres of fabric, 0.65 metres of elastic, 9.3 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape, two spools of thread and six sewing labels.  Of the three patterns used this month, one was new.   

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Children's Leggings: McCall's 7709

One more gift sewing project, the leggings, from McCall's 7709.  

I will have to give this a good pressing before I wrap this one up.  These leggings are sewn in a size six.  The pattern is rated as "very easy" and this certainly applies to this project.  There are no side seams and it can easiest be stitched in less than an hour.  

The fabric is another scrap busted piece.  This fabric first appeared here and is a 67% bamboo, 28% cotton and 5% spandex blend.  It was previously pretreated so I was able to get right to work on this project.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  The fabric was in the stash for many moons.  The "designed and printed in the U.S.A." pattern was a recent and tariff free purchase as the Big Four patterns are on a liquidation sale due to the U.S. tariffs.  The Gutermann threads are from the stash.  The label is a KATM project from an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  0.65 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.5 metres

Label:  1 KATM "You Are Loved" label

Pattern:  McCall's 7709

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, mini vacuum, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and chai latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Children's Top: McCall's 7709

This is another gift project made with McCall's 7709.  

The fabric has made a previous appearance here and here as adult tops.  This project is made with left over fabric that turned out to be enough for a wee gal's top.  It is a lovely medium weight cotton and spandex knit that I found at Marshall Fabrics a couple of years ago.  It was previously pretreated and ready to cut.  

The pattern, McCall's 7709, was an easy project to sew.  No issues to report and it is recommended for a beginner willing to give sewing with knits a try.  The only thing that I changed was the length on the hem, shortening it by one and a half inches and sewing an one inch topstitched hem.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  No fabric or supplies used to make this top contributed to the convicted felon's economy.  The fabric, purchased a couple of years ago, came from Marshall Fabric, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The "designed and printed in the U.S.A." pattern was purchased during a liquidation sale in part of the consequences of the convicted felon's global tariffs.  To be honest, I don't think I would have added anymore children's patterns to the stash otherwise. The threads were all pulled from the stash and are Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used are Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom business and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company, purchased directly from their website.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged  

Fabric:  0.8 metre

Label:  1 KATM  "You Are Loved" label

Pattern:  McCall's 7709

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome 4190 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, lint brush, tweezers, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Children's Dress: McCall's 7709

This is a gift sewing project.  

McCall's 7709 is a new-to-me pattern.  An easy peasy project with just three pattern pieces.  It was a quick sewing project and would be great for a beginner willing to try sewing with knits and involves a wee bit of gathering on the sleeves.  I'm not a fan of the recommended finish on the neckline and decided to skip the rolled hem.  I thought it would be too bulky especially around the pleats and instead finished the edge on the serger and then turned it over once, stitching in place.  Otherwise, the pattern is cute and it was a fun project to sew.  

The fabric has been in the stash for over a decade.  It is left-over from a dress I made for my mom, many moons ago.  There was one metre of this floral cotton sateen left-over and it was too nice to let it go.  I often thought of making a top or using it with another fabric.  It just happens to be enough for this project.  

The fabric suggestions for McCall's 7709 did not call for a woven but over on Pattern Review, someone made a lovely version of this dress in a non-knit.  And since this cotton sateen has a 35% stretch which matches the recommended stretch guide on the pattern calling for "moderate stretch knits," I thought why not give it a try?  What do you think?  

Sewing IS Political

This dress is the latest Canadian 🍁made and tariff free project to come off the sewing machine.  As previously mentioned, the cotton sateen fabric was leftover from a previous dress project.  It came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric retailer.  The "designed and printed in the U.S.A." pattern is a non-tariffed product that was part of a recent clearance sale at Fabricland.  According to the online article, "Parent Company of the Big Four Pattern Brands Sold to a Liqidator" by Abby Glassenberg, "IG Design Group cited the impact of tariffs imposed by the USA as a factor."  The Big Four patterns will no longer be available in retail stores here.  That is why I momentarily put my elbows down and picked up this dress pattern.  Now, our only option to shop the Big Four patterns in the future, if this tariff war and annexation threats ever ends, is to shop online.  Instead, I'll be keeping a watchful eye out for second hand pattern finds from now on so not to contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  The threads used were Gütermann threads.  The label is from KATM, an Austrailian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch 

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Label:  1 KATM "YOU ARE LOVED" label

Pattern:  McCall's 7709

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, straight edge ruler, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, blind hem foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, measure gauge, threads, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, iron, ironing board, tea and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

More Nostalgic Sewing: Vogue 9268

Here is another version of Vogue 9268.  

I think I have already mentioned that Vogue 9268 is a favourite pattern?  It's nice to have another version of this dress to wear when the mood strikes.  Over the years, I made four versions of this pattern but as of today, there are now only two sitting in the closet.  There were some lessons learnt along the way.  This pattern does well with a knit fabric that has some drape.  

The pattern recommends rayon / spandex, cotton / spandex and ITY knits.  I avoid rayon fabrics so that suggestion falls on deaf ears.  The first version I made was in an ITY knit, it draped beautifully.  Over the years since making that one, I stopped wearing polyester.  So, the first one found it's way to the donation pile.  The second version I made did not have enough drape and ended up being refashioned and then I outgrew the revision.  This version is made with a bamboo French terry.  

The fabric has been in the stash for years.  I will admit that I was a bit nervous about this fabric when I first picked it up.   It is made up of 67% bamboo, 28% cotton and 5% spandex and shrinkage would play a part in how it wears.  Bamboo is said to have a shrinkage rate of 6%, whereas cotton has a 4% rate.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing cycle and time in the dryer.  Just in case any further shrinkage may occur, I will be handwashing and hanging this dress to dry.  It has a lovely drape for this pattern.  

The pattern did have some changes and alterations before it was used to cut the fabric.  First up was shortening the length.  And even though I made view A and shortened the pattern, it looks like I made myself view B.  The sleeve length was also shortened.  Then I changed the V-neckline to a rounded neckline.  The dress pieces were cut on the fold eliminating the centre front and back seams.  I cut the dress as a medium with the exception for the side seam at the underarm to the waist which was cut at the large cutting lines.  Since I have scoliosis, I'm not all that keen on close-fitting knits across parts of my back.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to come off the sewing machine.  The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time.  I discovered it in the discounted section at Fabricland, a Canadian retailer.  The threads used to make this dress were a combination of Coats and Clark and Gütermann threads and were all pulled from the stash.  Once the Coats and Clark threads are de-stashed they will not be replaced.  I'm a loyal Gütermann thread gal now and I'm not going back to Coats and Clark threads.  The Vogue pattern has been in the stash since it first appeared on the scene and did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  Vogue 9268 is designed by Kathryn Brenne, a Canadian designer.  The fabric scissors used are Merchant and Mills, a United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is another KATM product from an Australian company.  I ordered these directly from KATM.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  3.3 metres

Label:  1 KATM "Look After Me" label 

Pattern:  Vogue 9268, circa 2017

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables (2), pins, pin cushions, measuring table, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, assorted heavy objects to use as weights while cutting, fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, many breaks, chai latte and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

 

A Pullover Knit Dress: Vogue 9268

This project is about revisiting an once upon a time favourite pattern, Vogue 9268, and stash-busting some fabric.  I made Vogue 9268 when it first was released in 2017 and then another version a couple of months later.  Currently, those two dresses are no longer in my closet.  I gave up wearing polyester which was fibre content of the first version and the second cotton knit version did not have enough drape to make this design work.  Fabric choice matters as much as sewing techniques.  

Enter the latest version of Vogue 9268.  This dress is made in a light weight cotton knit.  This fabric came from Mitchell Fabrics, prior to their closure.  This fabric has been in the stash for over a decade.  So, it is nice to finally stash bust most of the yardage.  There is enough leftover fabric to make a t-shirt.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  It hit the ironing board for a steam pressing before hitting the cutting table.  It was a lovely fabric to sew and it makes me miss Mitchell Fabrics more than normally I do.  

The pattern is still a favourite, it is so comfortable.  There were some tweaks to the pattern prior to cutting out the project.  I shortened the length since I am currently shorter than the first time I sewed this dress.  I cut the shorter version and it's still long and I'm okay with that.  I also shortened the sleeve length and it's still a long sleeve version.  I cut the pattern as a size medium except for the small section at the side seam from the underarm to where it curves out towards the drape of the skirt.  At this section I cut at the large size markings.  The neckline was changed, eliminating the V-neck shape.  The front and back pattern pieces were cut on the fold.  

Vogue 9268 is a well drafted pattern and came together quickly.  Need I say more?  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  I don't know if you heard about the increase in tariffs against Canada a few days ago.  

Artist: Bruce MacKinnon, Halifax Chronicle-Herald

Yup, the convicted felon, sexual abuser, pathological liar and TACO man is as predictable as ever.  No one is surprised that the convicted felon imposed higher tariffs on Canada at the beginning of the month.  So predictable.  And so the boycott of American products continues in the sewing workspace and all other areas of Canadian life.  

The fabric used in this project was from Mitchell Fabrics, a now-closed Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern is a "Made in the U.S.A." product that has been in the stash prior to the convicted felon started the tariff war against the world.  Knit 'N Stable tape used is a Pellon brand product, an American company.  It, as well as the pattern, did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy because it has been in the stash for years.  Once I run out of the remaining Knit 'N Stable tape sitting in the stash, it won't be replaced and I will instead turn to my Coverstitch machine for finished hems on knits.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.   The threads used in the sewing machine and serger are Güterman threads, a German company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam allowance:  Serged

Fabric:  4.2 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  3.30 metres

Label:  KATM "Be Bold" label

Pattern:  Vogue 9268, circa 2017.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table x 2, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, good tunes, measuring tape, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, thread clippers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Revisiting a Favourite Pattern: Butterick 6784

I am revisiting a favourite kAtheRine Tilton sewing pattern, Butterick 6784.  

This is one of four that I cut recently and hope to get to this month.  Two are summer versions (one cotton and one linen) and the others are cut in fabrics I can wear in the cooler to colder months of the year.  Why four more?  This is such a comfortable dress to wear, that's it.  Oh, and it has pockets!  

The only change to the pattern was to shorten the length by two inches after it was all pieced together.  It has a 3/4" topstitched hem.  I decided to leave off the collar, even though I do like the design and I did cut the pattern piece.  In the end, I decided to omit it since this is a warm weather version.  I also omitted the interfacing on the sleeve facing piece.  I just wanted to keep this light.  

The 100% cotton fabric used for this version has been in the stash for some years now.  I picked up this shirt weight cotton fabric from Emma One Sock many moons ago.  It was pre-treated with a wash in the washing machine and a tumble in the dryer prior to hitting the ironing board for a good steam press.  And then it hit the cutting table.    

Sewing IS Political

This project is Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free.  The fabric was purchased from Emma One Sock, an U.S. business prior to the convicted felon down south starting his tariff war on the world and trash-talking Canadians.  The "made in U.S.A." Butterick sewing pattern has been in the stash for years and was previously used over the years.  So I am happy to report, the fabric and sewing pattern did not in any way contribute to the convicted felon's economy.   I believe this is an Obama era fabric.  The threads used were Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used to cut the project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6--2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.9 metres

Knit 'N Stable:  0.20 metres

Label:  1--KATM "Ooh La La" label 

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, tailor's chalk, pin cushion, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, threads (sewing machine and serger), Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, assorted cans used as weights, good tunes and a cup of tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

July in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

L to R:  silk noil sweatshirt (TAL High cuff top), breast feeding cover (no pattern used, just copied the design and measurements from an Amazon advertisement I was forwarded).  

There was not a lot of actual sewing done this month.  It was a quiet month sewing wise.  Yardwork, back and knee pain, a concussion and procrastination were keeping me from spending time at the sewing machine.  I did however spend a lot of time at the cutting table.  I had help setting up a work space to cut out several large projects that needed to be cut in single layers.  They are stacked up by the sewing machines waiting for a burst of energy and some free time.  

There was a wee bit of mending activity that took place when a small hole was discovered on the rib knit of the silk sweatshirt and some broken stitches were re-stitched on a pajama top.  Nothing ended up on the worktable for alterations.  

Stash Busting

This month I used from the stash 3.8 metres of fabric, two KATM labels and two spools of thread.  There were magnetic snaps purchased and used for the breast feeding cover.  And I did stock up on more KATM labels.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Copy Cat San Francisco Baby Nursing Cover

This project is a request that recently came across the worktable, a baby nursing cover.  From the photo I was sent, I would be guessing at the details but thankfully there were more clues to be found within the advertisement.  

It is listed as 100 x 70 cm and it basically looks like an oversized rectangular shaped apron.  Sounds easy enough.  I had a piece of 100% cotton French terry leftover from these tops that fit the bill.  There was even enough to cut straps.  And the best part is that this piece was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  I was all set to get to work.  

At first, I really didn't get the appeal of this project.  The frugal part of my brain thought why not just use a bath towel or blanket to cover up during breast feeding?  But it's the interior details that I started to "get it."  Yes, having those interior pockets can be helpful for having easy access to a burping cloth or soother for after the baby is fed.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made but sadly not a tariff free sewing project.  I've been trying hard not to avoid American products that could contribute to the convicted felon's economy or tax dodging oligarch's companies.  This is the first project this year that I purchased an American product to complete a sewing project.  

This project was finished with Tailor™ magnetic fasteners.  The package states that it's imported by Rose E Dee International Ltd. and was made in China.  Packaging information can hide some information from consumers but a little online research reveals that Tailor brand sewing notions are indeed an American company, founded in 1907 by professional tailor Frank Wawak.  Since these snaps are made of metal this project was impacted the tariff war.  I could have found a less expensive alternative to these snaps but I was considering the ease that these could provide while breast feeding.  I do like the product, I just don't like the tariffs and if it weren't for a gift project, I would have forgone this notion at this time.  

The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time and was originally found at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads used on the sewing machine and serger were pulled from the stash and included some Coats and Clark threads that I'm trying to clear out of the stash.    

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Label:  "Made with Love" by KATM

Snaps:  2--25 mm magnetic 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, ruler, measuring tape, measuring gauge, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, Jean-a-ma-jig™, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, computer research, chai latte and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.   

Raw Silk Sweater: The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

While waiting for out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 to arrive, I have kept myself busy by revisiting The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater pattern since the toile turned out well.  Here is my silk version.  

There is something special involved with sewing with a natural fibre fabric.  As well as wearing it.  Sadly, the fabric stores and even the stores selling RTW clothing are filled with man-made fibre fabrics.  It's a rare treat to sew and wear raw silk.  Locally, Fabricland currently sells raw silk but at $80 (Cdn) / metre, it's a luxury fabric that is not in today's budget.  This is a re-sell piece pulled from the stash. 

This project was sewn with the same modifications made with the toile version.  The sleeve length was shortened three inches.  The shoulder bands and armhole seams are sewn with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams were sewing with the recommended 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made project that wasn't hit by tariffs.  Everything used in the making of this top were from non-American retailers and purchased prior to the economic war on Canada and insulting annexation rhetoric.  

The medium weight silk fabric was a previously owned piece found at Winnipeg Sews.  Winnipeg Sews sadly closed down six months ago.  Some how it seems longer than six months but I digress.  The rib knit came from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  

After stitching the lower band, I noticed a tiny hole in the back.  Of course, it was on the right side of the garment.  Drats!  I didn't notice this flaw when cutting out the pattern piece and wonder if it became damaged during the sewing process.  Oh well, it won't be noticed when worn, just a quick couple of hand stitches and the hole was closed.  

The sewing pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish company.  The Coats and Clark threads used on the sewing machine and serger were from the stash.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabrics:  2.5 metres of silk and 0.6 metres of rib knit

Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater S:202

Label:  "Bespoke" KATM sewing label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, assorted objects used as pattern weights, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushions, ruler, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, new sewing machine needle, hand sewing needle, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, Chai latte, scoliosis back brace and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today...

I have a reason to break out this pattern, out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367.  It's been in my stash since the early 1990s and I've made countless versions of view A over the past thirty plus years.  I am hoping to make more.  

I discovered that the back pattern piece is missing.  Drats!  Last time I made up this project was four years ago, I wouldn't even know where to look for this pattern piece.  Thankfully, I was able to find another copy of this pattern.  This made made me happy, it is such a cute onesie.  Until it arrives, I can get busy pretreating some knit fabrics for this future project.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

 

Happy Canada Day!

This is an important Canada Day as our country continues to be under threat.  It's also a day to be grateful and to count our blessings.  

Canada Day outfit:  Red and white maple leaf print cotton top, OOP Butterick 6325, circa 2020 worn with a white cotton sateen pull-on skirt, The Assembly Line's A-line midi skirt, circa 2024.

I'm grateful that I live in a country that is kind and cares about others.  I am grateful and blessed that I live in a democracy.  I'm blessed to live in a diverse and generous country.  Even though Canadians may disagree with each other from time-to-time, for the most part we're respectful and stand together as a nation.  I am blessed to live in a country that cares about the environment and takes care of our national parks.  I am grateful for a country that has healthcare.  I am grateful for the community organizations that care of the poor, those without food and those that need help.  I am grateful for governments and community members that work towards ending homelessness and affordability issues.  I am grateful for the beauty that this country has to offer from it's vibrant urban centres to the rural and northern communities.  I'm am grateful for clean water and a place to call home.  I am blessed that I get to live in a country that has four distinct seasons.  I am grateful that I get to enjoy the beauty of the first snowfall at the start of each winter season.  I am grateful for Canada.  

Happy Canada Day!  

June in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Clockwise from the top:  cotton skirt (The Assembly Line, S:402 Tulip skirt), blue cotton knit t-shirt (OOP Butterick 6859) and cotton pullover top (The Assembly Line, T:202 High Cuff Sweater).

There were projects completed at the work table this month.  All of these were first-time used patterns and turned out to be wearable toiles.  I would like to re-visit all of them in the future when I can find some more free time.  These June makes turned out to be some comfortable pieces that I often reached for throughout this month.  

And there was also mending and alterations that received some attention.  Bedroom curtains that needed some hem adjustments and various broken stitches that needed to be repaired were done.  

Another Pattern Shake Up

This month the sewing community was hit with the news of a pattern shake up.  According to the online article, "Parent Company of the Big 4 Sewing Pattern Brands Sold to a Liquidator" by Abby Glassenberg, "IG Design Group cited the impact of tariffs imposed by the US as a factor."  

It was twenty years ago that Fabricland stopped carrying Simplicity and New Look patterns here in Canada.  And now Fabricland has started selling off these Big Four Five legacy patterns (Vogue, Butterick, McCall's, Burda and Know Me) at deep discounts.  

It breaks my heart that these pattern companies are the latest victim of the convicted felon's tariff scheme.  But according to an upbeat message by Mimi G, work at the Big Four continues.  So what is going on?  According to a reply to a question on the Mimi G video update, there are Fall Vogues in the works.  Deep breath.  It's heartbreaking to even think that the Big 4 may not survive the upheaval tariffs have created.  

I did take advantage of Fabricland's recent pattern discounts and, with a heavy heart and elbows momentarily down, picked up a few patterns just in case it's my last chance.

Vogue 2115, Know Me 2076, Butterick 6745 and McCall's 8147 were recently added into the stash.  And elbows are back up.  The available stock at the store is low and many patterns found in the pages of the pattern catalogues are no longer available in the dwindling collection found in the pattern drawers.  The times they are a-changin'.  

National Sewing Machine Day

Another June presents us with another reason to celebrate our sewing machines.  June 13 happened to be National Sewing Machine day.  I am intrigued with what the future will hold with artificial intelligence and the use of sewing robots to help over populate the globe with fast-fashion.  Yikes!   

The times they are a-changin'.  

Stash Busting

This month 5.6 metres of fabric, 7 spools of thread, 1 recycled zipper, 1 KATM sewing label, 1.5 metres of Knit 'N Stable and 0.8 metres of basting tape were used from the stash.   There were four new patterns added to the stash.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing

I Do Like a Plaid: TAL's High Cuff Sweater / T:202

This is The Assembly Line's T:202, High Cuff Sweater.  This pattern may make it back on the cutting table sometime soon as this is one comfortable top and it's a well drafted pattern that was a pleasure to sew.  

The plaid fabric is a 100% cotton and the ribbing is a cotton knit leftover from this project.  Both fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer cycles before hitting the worktable.  The plaid fabric was a remnant piece measuring 1.1 metres and if it weren't for shortening the sleeve length, I wouldn't have enough fabric.  I did take Anna's suggestion of adding 3/4" to the length to the neckline band and I'm glad that I did.  The shoulder and armhole seams were sewing with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams and bands were sewn with the recommended one centimeter seam allowance.  

The waistband has a lovely curve that gives this top a nice fit in the back.  The only change I might do on another version is to just shorten the sleeve length a wee bit more.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to emerge from the sewing machine during the convicted felon's economic war on the world.  All of the supplies and fabric were found in the stash.  The pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish pattern company.  The fabrics were found many moons ago at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The black Gütermann threads were pulled from the stash and were picked up from Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres of 100% cotton plaid and 0.6 metres rib knit

Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

Size:  Large

Alternations / Pattern Modifications:  Shortened the sleeve length and sewed a 5/8" seam allowance at the shoulder and armhole seams.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, tailor's chalk (3 chalk colours were used to help identify the sides, front and back on the waistband), fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.