Happy Canada Day!

This is an important Canada Day as our country continues to be under threat.  It's also a day to be grateful and to count our blessings.  

Canada Day outfit:  Red and white maple leaf print cotton top, OOP Butterick 6325, circa 2020 worn with a white cotton sateen pull-on skirt, The Assembly Line's A-line midi skirt, circa 2024.

I'm grateful that I live in a country that is kind and cares about others.  I am grateful and blessed that I live in a democracy.  I'm blessed to live in a diverse and generous country.  Even though Canadians may disagree with each other from time-to-time, for the most part we're respectful and stand together as a nation.  I am blessed to live in a country that cares about the environment and takes care of our national parks.  I am grateful for a country that has healthcare.  I am grateful for the community organizations that care of the poor, those without food and those that need help.  I am grateful for governments and community members that work towards ending homelessness and affordability issues.  I am grateful for the beauty that this country has to offer from it's vibrant urban centres to the rural and northern communities.  I'm am grateful for clean water and a place to call home.  I am blessed that I get to live in a country that has four distinct seasons.  I am grateful that I get to enjoy the beauty of the first snowfall at the start of each winter season.  I am grateful for Canada.  

Happy Canada Day!  

June in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations

Clockwise from the top:  cotton skirt (The Assembly Line, S:402 Tulip skirt), blue cotton knit t-shirt (OOP Butterick 6859) and cotton pullover top (The Assembly Line, T:202 High Cuff Sweater).

There were projects completed at the work table this month.  All of these were first-time used patterns and turned out to be wearable toiles.  I would like to re-visit all of them in the future when I can find some more free time.  These June makes turned out to be some comfortable pieces that I often reached for throughout this month.  

And there was also mending and alterations that received some attention.  Bedroom curtains that needed some hem adjustments and various broken stitches that needed to be repaired were done.  

Another Pattern Shake Up

This month the sewing community was hit with the news of a pattern shake up.  According to the online article, "Parent Company of the Big 4 Sewing Pattern Brands Sold to a Liquidator" by Abby Glassenberg, "IG Design Group cited the impact of tariffs imposed by the US as a factor."  

It was twenty years ago that Fabricland stopped carrying Simplicity and New Look patterns here in Canada.  And now Fabricland has started selling off these Big Four Five legacy patterns (Vogue, Butterick, McCall's, Burda and Know Me) at deep discounts.  

It breaks my heart that these pattern companies are the latest victim of the convicted felon's tariff scheme.  But according to an upbeat message by Mimi G, work at the Big Four continues.  So what is going on?  According to a reply to a question on the Mimi G video update, there are Fall Vogues in the works.  Deep breath.  It's heartbreaking to even think that the Big 4 may not survive the upheaval tariffs have created.  

I did take advantage of Fabricland's recent pattern discounts and, with a heavy heart and elbows momentarily down, picked up a few patterns just in case it's my last chance.

Vogue 2115, Know Me 2076, Butterick 6745 and McCall's 8147 were recently added into the stash.  And elbows are back up.  The available stock at the store is low and many patterns found in the pages of the pattern catalogues are no longer available in the dwindling collection found in the pattern drawers.  The times they are a-changin'.  

National Sewing Machine Day

Another June presents us with another reason to celebrate our sewing machines.  June 13 happened to be National Sewing Machine day.  I am intrigued with what the future will hold with artificial intelligence and the use of sewing robots to help over populate the globe with fast-fashion.  Yikes!   

The times they are a-changin'.  

Stash Busting

This month 5.6 metres of fabric, 7 spools of thread, 1 recycled zipper, 1 KATM sewing label, 1.5 metres of Knit 'N Stable and 0.8 metres of basting tape were used from the stash.   There were four new patterns added to the stash.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing

I Do Like a Plaid: TAL's High Cuff Sweater / T:202

This is The Assembly Line's T:202, High Cuff Sweater.  This pattern may make it back on the cutting table sometime soon as this is one comfortable top and it's a well drafted pattern that was a pleasure to sew.  

The plaid fabric is a 100% cotton and the ribbing is a cotton knit leftover from this project.  Both fabrics were pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer cycles before hitting the worktable.  The plaid fabric was a remnant piece measuring 1.1 metres and if it weren't for shortening the sleeve length, I wouldn't have enough fabric.  I did take Anna's suggestion of adding 3/4" to the length to the neckline band and I'm glad that I did.  The shoulder and armhole seams were sewing with a 5/8" seam allowance.  The side seams and bands were sewn with the recommended one centimeter seam allowance.  

The waistband has a lovely curve that gives this top a nice fit in the back.  The only change I might do on another version is to just shorten the sleeve length a wee bit more.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to emerge from the sewing machine during the convicted felon's economic war on the world.  All of the supplies and fabric were found in the stash.  The pattern is from The Assembly Line, a Swedish pattern company.  The fabrics were found many moons ago at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The black Gütermann threads were pulled from the stash and were picked up from Fabricland, another Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight and knit (lightening bolt) stitches

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.1 metres of 100% cotton plaid and 0.6 metres rib knit

Pattern:  The Assembly Line's High Cuff Sweater

Size:  Large

Alternations / Pattern Modifications:  Shortened the sleeve length and sewed a 5/8" seam allowance at the shoulder and armhole seams.  

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, tailor's chalk (3 chalk colours were used to help identify the sides, front and back on the waistband), fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Stash Busting: Wearable Toile / OOP Butterick 6859

This top is made with a light-weight cotton knit and out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 6859.  It's made as a wearable toile to test the fit before I proceed onto my preferred fabric choice.  

I cut a size medium but I was worried if there was enough ease so I pinned the top of the bodice pieces at the neckline and pivoted away from the fold at the hemline.  

I also have the larger size combination of this pattern.  I thought I would start with the medium and see where I would have to go from there.  The fit is great.  If I didn't pivot at the hemline fold it would be a more fitted shirt.  

I did end up straightening the hemline.  From the side seam I removed about an inch and a half and removed the hemline curve.  The hemlines were finished with Knit 'N Stable tape before serging the edge and topstitching with a one inch hem.  

This is a lovely pattern.  It's well drafted.  I adore the gathering on the raglan seam of the sleeves.  And I wouldn't mind making the sweatshirt version with a kangaroo pocket one day.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  Everything used to make this t-shirt was found in the stash.  

The pattern, OOP Butterick 6859, was designed (circa 2022) and printed in the U.S.A.  Most of my sewing patterns found in the stash are from the Big Four.  I felt deeply sad to read that IG Design Group sold the pattern division to a liquidator citing the impact of the tariffs imposed by the U.S. administration as a factor.  It is incredibly sad and heart breaking to see how the convicted felon's tariffs (it's a tax) is hurting businesses and consumers around the globe.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged  

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.5 metres

Fabric:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 6859

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Air Thread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, and a decaf coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

It Has Pockets! The Assembly Line's Tulip Skirt / S:402

I've made a few Tulip dresses in the past but this is my first Tulip skirt which has some of the best design elements of the Tulip dress.  I am a fan of the front side pockets and the tulip shape of the skirt.  

It is a comfortable skirt and I do recommend this pattern.  I cut a size large knowing that it was going to be too big if I sewed the recommended seam allowance.  I thought if I sewed 5/8" seam allowances I would come closer to the fit I need.  In the end, I think I should have cut a size medium and could still have sewn a 5/8" seam allowance and achieve a good fit.  

The length was shortened two and a half inches and there is an one and a half inch hem.  The pockets were raised about an inch, three inches down from the waist cut edge.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with some stretch that I pulled from the stash.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Sewing IS Political

This skirt is the latest Canadian 🍁 and tariff free make.  Most of the material and supplies were found in the stash.  Some of the threads were new for this project.  

Sewing is a reprieve from all the chaos in the world.  After a recent visit to Canada from a bipartisan group of U.S. senators and listening to Senator Kevin Cramer during the press conference just makes me want to boycott American products more than I already am, if that is even possible.  It's not just the convicted felon's rhetoric regarding tariffs and annexation, it's also those who support him that is beyond belief.  And as a Canadian and consumer there is no way I would contribute or support the American economy while this is happening.  No means NO!  What part of that do these republicans and MAGA supporters not understand about no?  Even after the King of Canada read the Throne Speech, the annexation rhetoric continued to echo from across the border.  Let's not get me started on the U.S. Ambassador to Canada's view of the 51st comments and boycott of American products.  Again, mind blowing.  Trust me when I say there are plenty of American products on the store shelves in the hardware, grocery store and fabric stores, no one is buying it while the economic war, tariffs and annexation / 51st state rhetoric continues to circulate.  But I digress.  

Let's count the ways that this lovely project did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  

1. The Tulip skirt pattern is from The Assembly Line, a pattern company from Sweden.  I picked up this pattern after I stopped shopping American products which sadly meant saying good-bye to any future Vogue patterns.  I don't miss the American line of sewing patterns anymore, I actually found some beautiful patterns in queue from across the pond to keep me busy for the next while.  This Tulip skirt pattern is one of those patterns.  
2. The cotton sateen fabric was found in the stash and purchased before the convicted felon took office for the second time.  I found it in the discounted section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric store.  
3. The scissors used to cut the fabric are Merchant and Mills, a company from the United Kingdom.  They were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian company.  
4. This project was sewn on Janome machines, a Japanese company.  
5. The zipper is a recycled 22" zipper from a previous project that was cut to size.  
6. Some of the threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütenmann threads from Europe and were purchased at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric store.   There were some vintage spools of Ballet® brand threads found in Mom's thread box that were a close colour match and used in the serger.  
7. The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and purchased directly from them to avoid shopping on Etsy.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Basting tape:  0.60 metres

Zipper:  20 centimetres

Pattern:  The Assembly Line S:402

Sewing Label:  1--KATM "me made" label 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, lint brush, mini vacuum, tailor's wax, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

May in Review and Me Made May 2025

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

There hasn't been much sewing this month.  I wake up with sewing time planned into my day and then life happens and sewing does not.  I did manage to finish off one previously cut and started project that I stumbled across this month.  

That's it.  Other than cutting out the next sewing project and setting up the sewing machines.  

Mending and alterations seem to take up most of my designated sewing time.  There always seems to be the odd mending job that presents itself while I'm tackling the ironing.  

Stash busting

There was 0.5 metres of cotton knit and 2 metres of elastic used in the only project that I managed to finish this month.  Nothing was added to the stash.  

Me Made May 2025

The final week of Me Made May finally arrived.  

To recap the month:  

What am I missing from my wardrobe?  Technically, nothing.  Although, one rainy day when I had to do some work outside, I wish I had a rain jacket to keep me dry.  

Most worn me-made item(s)?  Pajama sets (OOP Vogue 9217 and Butterick 6296), cotton knit underwear (OOP Simplicity 8229) and French terry undershirts made to wear under the scoliosis back brace (OOP Vogue 9057 and OOP Kwik Sew 2899). 

Favourite me-mades?  Those pieces made in natural fibre fabrics (cotton, linens and silk) and pieces that are easily pulled on or pullover.  

Least favourite pieces worn this month?  Those grass stained yardwork pieces.  And pieces that don't have pockets. 

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

 

Me Made May 2025: The Third Week

 Days 17--24

Other than going to church on Sunday and a few errands, my wardrobe and week was very low key.  It was a week of yard and housework.  

The only observation that I have to share is that I have clothes in my closet that don't fit my current low key lifestyle.  I have next to nil occasions to dress up.  Case in point, the teal coloured dress was the second time I wore this dress since I made it almost two years ago.  

Well that's all for this third week of Me Made May.  Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

 

A Forgotten Project: OOP Simplicity 8229

 

This project, OOP Simplicity 8229, was started last year when my serger went into the shop and stayed there for over a month waiting for a new needle plate.  It was half done when the serger needed repair.  And then I forgot about it until I recently stumbled across this half finished project and resumed work.  

It's finally done!  

I did not use the Cover stitch machine on this pair.  I went old school and used the zigzag stitch for securing the elastic.  I prefer this technique.  The fabric is a pre-washed cotton knit.  The elastic is 3/8" picot.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  All of the supplies were found in the stash and purchased before the convicted felon declared a global trade war against the world.  Let's count the ways that this project did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  

1. The pattern, OOP Simplicity 8229 (circa 2016), is an American made product.  It has been in the stash and used before the convicted felon declared an economic war on my country with the goal of annexation.  Never going to happen, that is why there is a boycott of American products.  
2. The fabric was purchased before the convicted felon broke the trade agreement he himself signed.  It was purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  
3. The scissors used for cutting out this project are from Merchant and Mills, a United Kingdom company.  They were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian company.  
4. The elastic was purchased from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  
5. The sewing machines are Janome, a Japanese company.  
6. The threads were found in the stash, purchased before the convicted felon's started his rein of terror.  The threads used in this project are all Coats and Clark which contributed to the convicted felon's election campaign.  Once the Coats and Clark threads are depleted from the stash, they will not be replenished.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.5 metres

Elastic:  2.4 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, wrist pin cushion, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, ballpoint needle (size 12), Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads (cotton for the sewing machine, polyester for the serger), thread clippers, Jean-a-ma-jig™.

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May 2025: The Second Week

Days 8 to 16:  

Top row L to R:  purple bamboo and cotton pullover top (OOP Vogue 1247), 100% cotton denim skirt (OOP Vogue 1247), black and white front buttoned top/jacket (OOP Vogue 8709), cotton knit skirt (OOP Butterick 5790) and 100% cotton pullover dress (Butterick 6784). 
Middle row L to R:  pear print pullover dress (Eva dress by Tessuti patterns), 100% cotton pullover dress (Trapeze dress by Merchant and Mills), reversible apron (OOP Butterick 5263). 
Bottom row L to R:  Butterfly print cotton knit t-shirt (OOP Vogue 9057), cotton knit skirt (OOP Butterick 5790), cotton and linen pullover top (OOP Vogue 9317), wool suiting pull-on pants (OOP Vogue 1642) and cotton pullover dress (Eva dress by Tessuti patterns).  

Can you believe that we're half way through Me Made May?  This week threw me from my typical May wardrobe choices.  At the start of the week we had some uncharacteristically warm hot weather.  It reached plus thirty-seven degrees Celsius (98.6℉) on Tuesday.  Sleeveless options, unless I'm wearing it with a t-shirt or turtleneck, are typically unheard of in May.  But here we were digging through summer time clothes.  Things have since cooled significantly and we're having some much needed rain.  

Here are some observations during the second week of Me Made May, 

1. Adding a rain jacket or coat would be nice.  Maybe something upcycled from a vinyl tablecloth?  I've watched some videos where that was done and they've turned out well.  Maybe I can turn a shower curtain into a rain coat?  I could do without as well, it's more of a fun project than something I need.  
2. I've started seriously thinking about that sports bra project after I stumbled across a pattern on sale.  The Pika 2679 by Jalie patterns is currently sitting at the work table.  I need to trace it out and adjust the pattern.  It will be nice to have a comfortable custom-made option to wear under t-shirts.  
3. I'm making more cotton undergarments with OOP Simplicity 8229.  The last set of panties had the elastic sewn on with the cover stitch machine but it didn't hold up as well as the earlier versions sewn with the zigzag stitch on my sewing machine.  I going old school with this new batch.  
4. I've noticed that I'm reaching for older pieces during Me Made May.  And I'm spending more time repairing and mending these than spending time creating something new.  Most of my sewing has been behind the scenes and often involves hand-stitched repairs.  Poor sewing machines are collecting dust.  

Well that's the latest Me Made May update.  Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May 2025: The First Week

 Days 1 to 7:  

The first week of Me Made May arrived and there are a few observations that I can make.  

1. I feel like I am working with a new wardrobe as there were a couple of pieces that I haven't been able to wear the last couple of years.  The red floral Eva dress (Tessuti pattern) and a plaid skirt (OOP Vogue 1378) were packed away after I gained weight.  And now these were reintroduced to the wardrobe after some weight loss earlier this year.  
2. What I chose to wear is mostly dictated by how I feel rather than what I want to wear.  Clothing choices are sometimes limited by the need to wear the scoliosis back brace.  Pullover or pull-on garments rule over zippers and buttons.  
3. If I could get away with it, I would live in pajamas.  I might want to sew one more pair.  
4. I would really like to try my hand at sewing a sports bra.  Something that I can modify to accommodate the physical changes happening to my back caused by scoliosis.  Something that doesn't hurt when I wear it.  And something that I can pull over or that has front closures.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Me Made May 2025

Today marks the start of Me Made May, an annual personalized wardrobe challenge.  I think of it as spring cleaning for my wardrobe as I put away the winter wardrobe and start bringing out the spring / summer selection.  This month long challenge is meant to promote a relationship with our handmade wardrobe and to challenge us to observe what works in real life.  As well as observing what doesn't work and why that might be.  

I have, in some form or another, been following and participating in MMM challenges over the years. I have come to realize that I prefer natural fibre over man-made fabrics.  They last longer, keep me warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer months and that is important.  I live in an area that has four seasons and extremes in temperatures.  I also find that my natural fibre fabric makes wear better and last longer than many man-made fabrics that have pilled beyond saving.  

So, I'm not going to write a personalized challenge, I'm just going continue wearing and observing and see where this journey takes me throughout the month.  I'll do some weekly check-ins along the way.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

April in Review

Seriously, where did the month go?  April flew by in the blink of an eye.  I had big sewing plans for the month but back and shoulder pain put the brakes on any plans.  Although, I did manage a wee bit of sewing.  

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

L to R:  The Assembly Line's (TAL) puff sleeve shirt in a cotton stretch denim coloured fabric (T:204) and 100% cotton denim skirt (OOP Vogue 1247)

Honestly, I wasn't trying to be on trend nor was I trying to go for the Canadian tuxedo look with these two April makes.  One was what I hoped would be a wearable toile and the other was a scrap busting project.  These weren't even projects I hoped to work on this month.  

I was thrilled with how the puff sleeve shirt turned out, hot off the sewing machine, the fit was lovely.  I wore it briefly one day before it got dirty and ended up in the laundry.  Fast-forward, it no longer fits.  Even though I pretreated this fabric, it shrunk some more.  ~sigh~  It's currently too tight and too short and it will be going in the donation pile.  There is still some of this denim coloured stretch fabric left-over but I think this will remain as a toile / muslin fabric.  I am happy with the TAL pattern and I'm just thinking about moving onto sewing another version in a different fabric.  The fabric for the denim skirt held up much better.  No additional shrinkage to report. 

In the alterations and mending department, nothing to report other than the mending pile keeps growing.  Those sweatpants that I thought I would work on last month are still sitting on the mending pile.  There are also some previously made projects waiting for some alterations.  

Stash busting

This month, I stash busted three metres of fabric, one invisible zipper, one KATM label, one snap, forty centimetres of basting tape and half a metre of elastic.  There were no notions, fabric or patterns added to the stash.   

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Earth Day and Fashion Revolution Week

This week is deep in reflection.  

Yesterday, waking up to the news that Pope Francis passed away was incredibly sad.  It marked the start of nine days of mourning for the world's 1.4 billion Catholics.  His words and actions throughout his life will hopefully continue to inspire those to continue to care for the environment and the poor.  

Today is Earth Day.  It's actually the fifty-fifth anniversary of Earth Day but somehow, it seems more important as it falls on a period of mourning for a man so devoted to environmental issues.  And more urgent as the convicted felon down south has withdrew the United States from the Paris Climate Accord and signed executive orders reversing climate policies.  And yet today, on Earth Day, the White House tries to portray the convicted convict as a hero on environmental issues.  Is anyone buying it?  Sigh.  Does it matter?  What we do as individuals in our everyday lives does matter, whether it's something big like protesting and voting to have our voices heard or something as simple as recycling or growing a garden.  

Even sewing matters in the context of caring for the environment.  Chose sustainable fabrics, be mindful of using scraps, using quality techniques to create items that last.  And embrace repairing and mending to make loved clothes last.  

Today also marks the beginning of Fashion Revolution Week.  This is an annual event to mark the anniversary of the 2013 Rana Plaza garment factory collapse that killed over a thousand garment workers and injured many more.  It brought to light the terrible conditions these garment workers experience while making fast fashion clothing for the global market.  In its aftermath, it highlighted the poverty that garment workers experience while producing multi-million dollar clothing brands.  Along with the environmental impact of the fashion industry.  This year's theme is to think globally, act locally and many of the events surrounding Fashion Revolution Week encourages community engagement, "[c]ommunity is not just a group of individuals; it is a powerful tool for justice that can transform fear, anger and grief into hope." 

It sounds like a good week for some hope. 

Scrap busting Project: Denim Skirt / OOP Vogue 1247

I still had a wee bit, about 1.5 metres, of denim left over from this project.  And so, I thought to make one of my favourite skirt patterns, OOP Vogue 1247, from way back-in-the-day.  This skirt is a Rachel Comey design, circa 2011.  

The skirt was lengthened twelve inches with a two inch hem.  Other than that, there were no other changes to the design.  Oh, wait a second, I also finished the seam allowances with the serger instead of the Hong Kong seam finish recommended in the pattern instructions. 

Fabric

This medium weight denim fabric is to die for.  You don't find 100% cotton denim like this in the fabric store aisles anymore.  Well, at least not around here.  It's been in the stash for decades.  It's been in the stash long enough to have a faded fold line down the middle.  Yup, that long.  Thankfully this denim is wide and I was able to cut out this project around the faded line.  It was pretreated several times with tumbles through the washing machine and dryer.  It was steam pressed before hitting the cutting table.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made 🍁 and tariff free project.  Today, the convicted felon's plans to annex Canada made headlines in the news once again.  This disrespectful rhetoric against Canada's sovereignty and the global tariffs are my reasons for sewing from the stash and not purchasing anymore American products.  All of the supplies and equipment used to create this project were from the stash with the exception of the zipper.   

• The fabric was part of the stash for over twenty years.  It came into the stash from Fanny Fabrics, a Calgary based fabric store chain that closed down in 2005.  
• The pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1247, is an American product that has been in the stash for over a decade.  It was back in 2012 that I made my first version with this pattern.  
• The zipper is a  Costumakers zipper by YKK.  YKK is a Japanese company and the Costumakers zippers are made in Canada .  
• The threads are a mix of Gütermann threads and Coats and Clark.  Even though the Coats and Clark threads are labelled as made in Mexico, Coats and Clark is an American company that donated to the convicted felon's election campaign and once they are all stash-busted will not be replenished.
• The sewing label is a Kylie and the Machine product from Australia.   
• The snap fastener was made in India and imported by H. A. Kidd and Company Ltd., another Canadian company. 

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Zipper:  20 cm invisible zipper

Basting tape:  40 cm 

Pattern:  OOP Vogue1247

Snap:  1--15 mm metal snap

Label:  "Me Made" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, medium sized snap, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, threads, iron, ironing board, back brace, many breaks and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Slow Sewing: The Assembly Line's Puff Sleeve Shirt / T:204

This is my wearable toile made in a chambray cotton with some stretch.  It took weeks to complete, not because it is complicated rather I was sewing in spurts while dealing with fatigue and back pain issues. As Bette Davis said, "this getting old thing is not for sissies," and it's interfering with my desire to sew.  But at last it's done.     

The plan was to try out this pattern and possibly make a version in a silk noir.  I'm not sold on moving onto cutting into the silk.  There is nothing wrong with the pattern, it's lovely and if my body was more model-like, the fit would be spot on.  Instead, I have scoliosis and a shoulder that sits higher than the other and when I have swelling, it is noticeable in this top.  But that will not stop me from wearing this one.  The lovely boat shaped neckline would look lovely on a person with perfectly aligned shoulders and back.  And I'm not sure how nor do I have the energy to alter the pattern to address this unique fitting issue.  Like I said, that doesn't mean that I won't wear it.  It is a very comfortable top.  

The pattern is perfectly drafted and the instructions are well written and illustrated.  No complaints about the pattern, you can still count me as a TAL fan.   

I cut a size medium and added to the seam allowance so I could work with 5/8" seam allowances.  I didn't follow the order of steps laid out in the instructions.  I didn't sew set-in sleeves instead I sewed the sleeves before sewing the sides and left the cuffs to the end.  The length of the sleeve was shortened three inches and the hem by 1 5/8" and has an inch hem.  Since this is a toile, I opted to go without interfacing.  

The cotton stretch fabric was found in the stash and pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press.  It handled the pre-treatment process well.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian made 🍁 and tariff free make.  Yup, we're still doing this while the convicted felon down south and his cohort are creating chaos around the world, threatening other countries' sovereignty including Canada and crashing stock markets.  Let's just say, that sewing has been a much needed escape from all the chaos and hardship the convicted felon and his cohort is trying to unleash on the world.   

I am happy to report that everything used to make T:204 were non-American supplies and did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  The fabric is from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric retailer.  It has been in the stash for many moons.  The pattern is a recent addition from The Assembly Line, a Scandinavian company. .The threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütermann threads.  The sewing machine and serger are Janome, a Japanese company.  The fabric scissors used were from Merchant and Mills, an U.K. company and were sourced from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric and sewing supply company.  And the sewing label used is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company.   

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.5 metres

Label:  1--KATM "me-made" label

Pattern:  Puff Shirt T:204 by The Assembly Line

Additional Supplies & Tools:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, pins, ruler, red marker, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tea, many breaks along the way and a radio.      

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

March in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Left to Right:  Cotton Trapeze Dress, Merchant and Mill's; wool plaid scarf, no pattern used.  

March was a slow month at the sewing machine.  The scarf was just a project that I made to use up the last bit of yardage from this skirt project.  I've surprised myself with how often I've reached for this scarf as the weather warmed up and it worked well with this coat.  The dress has a sixties vibe that I adore.  I took it out for a spin pairing it with a turtleneck sweater and it's so comfortable.  This may become my go-to summer dress.  Although, I do like my Eva dresses and they will likely not be replaced.  

And there was a wee bit of mending to a piece of furniture that needed some care.  These sweatpants have a tiny hole in the left back side that needs to be closed.  I plan to mend them today.  Otherwise things were quiet in the workspace. 

Stash busting

This month 2.4 metres of fabric and two spools of thread were used from the stash.  I did pick up 2 metres of fabric this month.  And I quickly regretted the purchase even though it was on sale.  

It's a man-made knit with a metre long sticky tape residue at the centre fold and right side of the fabric. It's not the kind of fabric I go for but it was a good deal and I thought that I could use it as a toile fabric.  I didn't realize it was damaged by the tape residue when I took it to the cutting table and the sales clerk did not point it out when she measured it.  If I had noticed this, I wouldn't have picked it up.  I should have known, the sale price was too good to be true.  Thankfully, after three tumbles in the wash and a heck of a lot Shout stain remover, the tape residue is no longer noticeable.  But I digress.  

When the addition of toile fabric is considered, I didn't do much stash busting this month.  And there were some new patterns added to the stash.  Three new patterns from The Assembly Line (The Tulip and Balloon skirts and the Puff sleeve top) and a new Style Arc pattern to test out with the above fabric.  I hope to get to those projects soon.  Hopefully, April will be a more productive month.  

Stand Strong, Elbows Up and Keep Sewing!

Home Décor Sewing: Foot Stool Repair

 

It was about twenty-five to thirty years ago I had this piece commissioned after spotting a similarly shaped foot stool in an Eaton's flyer.  I fell in love with the height of the foot stool but at the time I couldn't afford the one listed in the Eaton's flyer.  I found someone willing to build one at a fraction of the cost and had it upholstered in a fabric found at Peach Berserk in Toronto.  The foot stool fabric was picked to match an antique chair.  Despite having the same fabric the two pieces don't match.  The feet on the foot stool are more modern where the antique chair has darker wood and a more delicate shape.  Even though the feet on the foot stool were not what I personally would have chose, it's a very comfortable piece.  And the feet eventually grew on me now that I don't use the two pieces together.  

Fast forward to a couple of years ago, a wee little gal was happily playing on the foot stool.  And then she discovered that she could flip it over and started climbing on it when her foot went through the underlining.  Thankfully, she escaped without any injuries but that wasn't the case with the foot stool.  I finally got around to mending the underlining after talking myself out of removing all those staples and replacing it.  That will do, no one will see it while it's in the upright position.    

Now, I'm distracted by the piping on the upper edge that is starting to fray in some parts.  Otherwise, the fabric is holding up on the foot stool.  Although it had started to fray on the seat of the antique chair many years ago.  I'm thinking that maybe I should attempt to make a slip cover for the foot stool?  There is still some leftover upholstery fabric left over from this project.  However, it would mean piecing together the fabric to cover the circumference of the foot stool.  I can live with it, as is, by just throwing something on top of it until I made a decision otherwise.  But it just might become a future sewing project.  

Stand Strong, Elbows Up and Keep Sewing!

Stash busting: Merchant and Mills Trapeze Dress

I do love a loose A-line style dress so when I saw versions of the Trapeze dress from Merchant and Mills popping up I was sold and wanted to make one of my own.  I've been holding onto this pattern for sometime and finally can check this off the sewing wish list.  I like the nineteen sixties vibe of this style.  

The pattern is a simple dress design with a few variations.  You can make it sleeveless, with short sleeves or three-quarter length sleeves that actually would be long sleeves on me.  I did want to have sleeves but after reading review I thought that I should try this pattern out in the sleeveless version.  

Even though it appears in the line drawing to be drafted with no sleeve cap gathering, just easing.  There are a few versions out there that appear to have the sleeves gathered into the sleeve cap.  It is not a look I want.  I was also worried about reports that the sleeve opening is tight and I thought if I went with the sleeveless version, alterations would not be so challenging.  

There are also options for the centre back design.  It can be made with a centre back seam or centre back button closures.  I opted for a seamless centre back so that I didn't mess with the circular prints on the fabric and cut my fabric on the fold for both the front and back pattern pieces.  

I am disappointed there is no pattern for pockets included here.  It would have been nice.  Of course, that didn't stop me from adding side pockets.  I borrowed the pocket pattern piece from The Assembly Line's Tulip dress pattern.  There is no marking for where the waist or bust lines on this pattern, so pocket placement was figured out after a fitting.  

I did struggle with turning over the facing.  I am not sure with what I did wrong.  In the end, I cut open the neckline, ironed a narrow allowance on the facing and dress and then wrong sides together I hand stitched the neckline closed.  I guess this wasn't such a simple design or I just needed a cup of coffee.  

As far as the fit, I think I would have been okay going down a size.  I didn't find the armhole opening to be too tight as others have described.  There is good coverage in that area where undergarments are well hidden.  

Sewing IS Political

This project is completely Canadian 🍁 made 💕 and tariff free.  

I don't know if you've been hibernating this winter and just emerged to the news that the convicted felon down south and his cohort have declared an economic war on Canada and other countries around the world.  Right now the convicted felon has a global steel and aluminum tariff and Canada and other countries have rightfully responded with tariffs on American goods.  That means if I go to the fabric store, many sewing and fibre art supplies are more expensive.  I don't know if this was necessary since most Canadians are not touching, looking or buying American goods and add to that Canadians are not traveling down south like they did before.  But I digress.  

Thankfully, everything I need for this project did not originate from the United States and was already in the stash.  The fabric is a Japanese cotton that I picked up a few years ago at a Canadian fabric store, Marshall Fabrics.  The fabric scissors and sewing pattern are from a United Kingdom business, Merchant and Mills picked up via a Canadian fabric store, The Workroom.  There were no Coats and Clark threads that touched this fabric, all threads used were Gütermann threads.  And my sewing machines are all non-American machines.  

The Fabric

A swatch of this medium weight 100% cotton fabric was previously pretreated in the washing machine on the normal setting and the gold dots faded.  This time, I pretreated the fabric on the delicate cycle both with the washing machine and dryer.  It was followed with a steam iron pressing on the wrong side of the fabric.  Thankfully, it turned out beautifully.  I will have to take the same care when laundering the finished garment.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Trapeze dress by Merchant and Mills

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, iron, ironing board, measuring gauge, pins, pin cushions, Merchant and Mills fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, seam ripper, wrist brace, back brace, tea, and many breaks between episodes of sewing.  

Stand Strong and Keep Sewing.