Tuesday, 4 February 2025

Four More Undershirts to Wear Under the Scoliosis Back Brace: OOP Vogue 9057

After discovering that out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9057 works as an undershirt to wear under the back brace, work began on making some more.  First, more fabric went in the wash for pre-shrinking and a tumble in the dryer.   While waiting for the yardage of fabric to dry, the underarm padding pattern piece was enlarged for more coverage.  

Four new tops were cut out with the neckline adjusted with an additional inch all around.  The tops were cut in a size medium using view A.  

The shoulder seams were sewn right sides together but the armhole and side seams were sewn wrong sides together.  This is a feature that I found on RTW scoliosis undergarments to prevent the bulkiness of seams pressing against the skin.  I recreated this feature with the tops to wear under my own brace.  The hems were finished as I would have finished any other top, an inch top-stitched hem.  Instead of sewing an neckline band, the edges were serged and folded over 5/8" and then topstitched in place.  


These four cotton French terry tops are Canadian made and tariff-free.  Since the United States of America declared an economic war on this country, I've been mindful not to contribute to the convicted felon's economy.   Let's be clear, this is not all about drugs crossing the border or that American banks are not allowed to do business in Canada.   The chronic liar and convicted felon and his republican cohort started talking trash about Canada becoming part of the United States and using economic force to make it happen.  Piss off.  


The fabric was purchased at a trusted Canadian business, Marshall Fabrics, and has been in my stash for awhile.  It was at a bargain price and even though there were a few flaws in the yardage, this piece was flawless.  No need for a label to cover up any holes.  The fabric was pre-treated before hitting the cutting table.  

The threads used in the sewing machines are a combination of Gütermann threads from Europe and finishing off the last bits of yellow Coats and Clark threads still in the stash.  These Coats and Clark spools of thread are old, wood spools old, and are labeled as an American product.  I've been doing research into Coats and Clark business ties.  In 2019, Coats and Clark was acquired by Spinrite, what seems like a Canadian company with its headquarters in Ontario.  In fact, Spinrite is owned by American private equity investors; Comvest Partners and JW Levin Management Partners and was acquired in 2018.  Needless to say, I'm clearing out the Coats and Clark threads from the stash and not replacing them while threats of annexation and tariffs still linger.

The fabric and paper scissors along with the pins used during this project are from Twain.  If you're in the market for a new pair of fabric shears and want to support a Canadian business check out LDH Scissors, a company from Ontario.  Their scissors are manufactured in China.  But if you want my recommendation (I haven't tried LDH Scissors), I have a pair of Merchant and Mills fabric scissors and I couldn't be more pleased with them.  Merchant and Mills is a British company and you can source their products via The Workroom, a Canadian company from Ontario and they do deliver.  I highly recommend this Canadian business, all my interactions with The Workroom have been positive.  Merchant and Mills also carry pins.  

The pattern, OOP Vogue 9057, is an American product.  This pattern was previously used many times and has been in my stash for a decade.  I am using what I have in the stash and not replenishing the sewing supplies with American pattern and sewing products during this economic wartime.  There are many Canadian, Australian and European businesses that deserve support rather than supporting the convicted felon's economy.   

These tops were sewn on Japanese made Janome sewing machinesBernina sewing machines are from Switzerland and are also wonderful sewing machines.  I do have a vintage Brother sewing machine, this is also a Japanese made sewing machine.  No Singer sewing machines (American) are part of the sewing tools used here.  

Thank you God for a stash to get me through this economic wartime and a sewing hobby that provides a bit of escape, even if for only a brief moment, from these surreal times.  




Project details

Fabric:  4 metres, 100% cotton French terry (there was enough left over pieces from the previously top to cut some of the pieces used here).


Pattern
:  Previously used OOP Vogue 9057, circa 2014

Thread:  8 spools of thread (mostly yellow) were finished.  

Seams:  knit (lightening bolt) stitch and serged seams.  

Seam finish:  Serged

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Folding table, fabric scissors, paper, paper scissors, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, fine tip marker, measuring gauge, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, and time listening and watching news reports.  

Stay Strong and Keep Sewing!  

Sunday, 2 February 2025

The United States Declared an Economic War on Canada: How That Will Have an Impact at the Sewing Table

I pulled out my maple leaf top from storage.  It just seems appropriate to put it on today.  Mind you, I will be wearing a red merino wool crew top to keep me warm.  


The convicted felon and president of the United States signed an executive order yesterday ordering 25% tariffs on Canada starting on Tuesday to be applied on all goods not shipped prior to February 1, 2025.  This convicted felon has been threatening tariffs on many nations around the world since taking office.  Yesterday, he started his economic war against Canada.  And I have to agree with actonfoodforest's instagram post, "is it worth stimulating Trump's economy?"  Of course not.  Canadians will stand up to this convicted felon.  

Oh, Vogue Patterns, how I am going to miss you.  Vogue patterns are made in the U.S.A. and let's be clear Trump economics will make things stupidly expensive.  A new Vogue design is currently priced at $42.00 Cdn. and then throw on a 25% tariff.  That just means, bye, bye Vogue and Simplicity and McCall's and Butterick and Burda patterns.  

Sure, there are some Vogue and Butterick patterns that were purchased before the felon took office that I hope to sew this year.  Vogue 2060, the Diane Von Furstenberg reissued wrap dress pattern, is on the list of want-to-sew projects and is already in the stash.  We're entering tough economic times and tough decisions have to be made and not purchasing anymore made in the United States products is one of those tough decisions.  I will be sewing with patterns already in the stash.  But no more new patterns from  U.S. pattern companies.  Thankfully, Canada has many Canadian pattern companies to support if the need for a new pattern should arise.  Say hello to Closet Core Patterns, Jalie patterns, and Helen's Closet are a few that come to mind.  

Coats and Clark is an American company and are no-purchase items during the economic war against Canada.  Thankfully, Gütermann threads are from Europe, so I'm covered in the thread department.  My fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an English company.  Other fabric scissors are from Asian countries such as Taiwan.  My sewing machines are Janome, a Japanese company.  And there is a fabric stash to keep me going along with other non-American resources.  

Stay Strong and Keep Sewing.  

Friday, 31 January 2025

January in Review

After a couple of months away from the sewing machine, I found my way back after tackling some repair projects.  

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Undershirt to wear with a back brace (OOP Vogue 9057).

I managed to make one top this month.  I hope to make a few more exactly like this one.  Otherwise, it was mending and repair work.  

The sagging bottom was repaired on this armchair

The biggest project this month was a saggy bottom upholstery repair.  This was a new-to-me project and one I put off for some time.  It was sourcing the materials that presented the biggest challenge.  

One of the items pulled from the never-ending mending pile.

  In Other Creative News
  International Sweatpants Day was celebrated on the twenty-first of this month.  There was no sweatpants sewing this year to mark occasion.  Instead, I wore my favourite comfy sweatpants made with Vogue 8909.  This is a pattern that I would highly recommend if your looking to sew a pair of sweatpants with a relaxed fit.  There is a desire to draft and sew a dropped crotch version of sweatpants one of these days if I can find the time.  

   January also marked National Hobby Month.  Even though there wasn't much garment sewing done this month, I did partake in some other hobbies.  I just started reading Sharp Notions this week after reading Melanie's review of the book.  I was able to find a copy of this book at the local library.  A few pages into this read and I'm hooked.  After reading Carol Off's At A Loss For Words (highly recommended if you're into politics and culture), Sharp Notions is a welcome read while I try to tune out the news and all the chaos from south of the border.  



    When I am cheating on my sewing hobby, I'm usually spending time in the kitchen.  Who knew that it's so easy to make sun-dried tomatoes at home?  Until recently, I was not aware of this fact.  If I'm lucky enough to spot a jar of sun-dried tomatoes on a grocery shelf, it usually stays there based on food inflation.  I made this jar of sun-dried tomatoes in the oven and it worked out great.  And I was trying to make a healthier and high fiber vegetarian calzone that took me on another kitchen adventure.  Spinach calzone = yes.  Zuchinni in calzone = nope.  There was some experimentation with using more whole wheat flour in favourite recipes.  There is definitely a learning curve involved in this one.  

That about sums up all the creativity I mustered up this month.  I feel like I dabbled in a little bit of this and a little bit of that.  And that was good enough.  I will just leave with a few stash-busting stats.  

Stash-busting

I used 1.4 metres of yellow French terry fabric and finished three 1,500 metres spools of yellow serger thread.  One previously used sewing pattern (OOP Vogue 9057) was used this month.  

The upholstery project required a run to the fabric store for supplies.  Added and used were 1.4 metres of outdoor upholstery fabric and an upholstery staple gun.  

Happy Sewing and National Hobby Month!  

Thursday, 30 January 2025

Undershirts to Wear Under the Scoliosis Back Brace: OOP Vogue 9057

This pattern, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9057, has been a go-to for t-shirts so, I thought I would revisit it to make a more fitted version of an undershirt to wear under the scoliosis back brace.  Just a side note:  this pattern was re-issued as Vogue 1733.  The first step is to create a pattern piece for the underarm padding and adjust the neckline.  

The back brace comes too close to my underarm area and without padding, the brace gives me abrasion wounds.  Not fun, but it worked on the previous top so I'm recreating it here as well.  I made the pattern piece covering the front and back pieces under the arm, but then I had to cut it where the side seams were to construct it the way I wanted.  

The shoulder seams were sewn right sides together but the armhole and side seams were sewn wrong sides together.  I did this so that I won't have to deal with any uncomfortable bulky seams against my skin while wearing this t-shirt with the scoliosis back brace.  The neckline was raised one inch all around and then top-stitched with a 5/8" hem around the neck.  

This time with this pattern, I did not add any extra ease, it is a straight size medium with no other adjustments.  It fits perfect, even the sleeve length.  I really wanted a undershirt with sleeves.  It's winter and the one I previously made with short sleeves is not keeping my arms warm enough and I'm not brave enough to throw a sweater over the brace with all the metal and velcro.  

Notice that little blue square near the hemline.  It's not decorative.  I noticed that there was a flaw in the fabric half way through the construction process.  

The "made it" label by KATM is to patch up the hole.  It really wasn't necessary because once I put the brace on, it would be covered.  I like the way it turned out though and I am glad I patched it up.  

I'm not disappointed with the fabric even with this small hole, I picked it up for $3.00 (Cdn) a metre.  A real deal considering that it is a French terry.  There are some other flaws in the yardage but I can work around it.  I really like the comfort provided with the French terry fabric I used in the last version and since I have a lot of it remaining in the stash, I'm will also be revisiting the same fabric.  The plan is to make more now that I found a pattern that is the perfect fit.  


Project details

Seams:  Serged and lightening bolt (knit stitch)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.4 metres (1 1/2 yards)

Label:  1--KATM "MADE IT" label


Pattern
:  OOP Vogue 9057, circa 2014

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Folding table, fabric scissors, paper, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, black fine tip marker, paper scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board, and a few breaks.  

Happy Sewing!

Saturday, 25 January 2025

Hand Sewing / Repair Work

 


In the spirit of saving money through a repairing before replacing work ethic, these socks ended up on the mending pile.  The worn down areas and one hole were patched over with some heavy "wool sweater knit" fabric from Marcy Tilton.  

Cutting patches from old sweaters or knit fabric is my preferred method of mending socks.  And it's more comfortable to have a bit of extra padding on the bottom of the socks.  

I've also been mending some pieces of clothing that have long been stored away while I ventured into obese territory.  And then came some unwelcomed news at the doctor's office that lead to eliminating sweets from my diet, processed foods and cutting back on the amount of fruit I was eating.  Right before Christmas.  It didn't ended up being as hard as I thought it would be.  Sure, I missed eating those sweet treats I used to enjoy and I did have to leave the room when people didn't respect the personal decision I made not to eat sweets.  "Just taste," someone would say.  So not cool.  I even avoided church gatherings that were a minefield of sweets.  But I made it past Christmas and I'm fitting into clothes that I haven't worn in years.  And I'm feeling better.  All thanks to God.  I can't believe that I'm no longer in the obese range, hello overweight category.  That means that I still have weight to lose and I'm determined to get to my healthy weight.  In the meantime, it feels like a whole new wardrobe has been welcomed back into the closet.  It's been so long since I've worn some of these pieces.  


This cotton sateen skirt, OOP Vogue 1247, had the snap re-stitched in place.  I guess it gave way as my waistline was expanding over the years since I made this skirt.  I'm so happy to have this one back in rotation, those pockets and the fit are the best features of this out-of-print pattern.  I might have to revisit this pattern now that I know it fits again.  


And these wool pants, OOP Vogue 1325, required the hook to be reattached.  This might be the first time in a long time that I was happy about mending.  

Happy Sewing!  

Tuesday, 14 January 2025

National Dress Up Your Pet Day!


Five years ago I wrote a blog post on National Dress Up Your Pet Day and I started off with how "the pet market for pet products and services is a multi-billion dollar market."  Oh my goodness, how much the headlines have changed since that time.  

This news story appeared a year and a half ago.  And twenty twenty-five continues with this trend.  It's not just a local issue, BBC also wrote about the same issue as well.  Yes, times are heartbreakingly tough for a lot of us with the price of EVERYTHING going up and the newly re-elected and soon to be president of the United States threatening economic hardship towards my country.  Things are well past the sticker shock phase of inflation and price gouging and threats of tariffs.  It has lingered into eye rolling and walking away territory.  And sadly, according to animal shelter employees and these new articles, it is happening to beloved pets.  

So maybe on National Dress Up Your Pet Day, instead of sewing up the latest pet attire let's think about the poor abandoned pets as well.  Maybe, this year we might consider helping a local shelter care for the animals looking for a forever home.  

Of course, celebrate our pets and even dress them up, maybe just add a different twist to the celebration this year and help out the ones looking for a forever home.  

Happy Sewing!  

Tuesday, 7 January 2025

Sewing IS Political

Wow, every single time the newly re-elected soon to be president of the United States appears on the television or on my computer screen I turn the channel.  Sorry if you voted for him, but I find him and his rhetoric repulsive.  But today, that person the people of the United States elected as their next president made economic threats to my beloved country.  

Wow.  

Just wow.  


I might be just one person but listening to his economic threat today just makes me never want to purchase anything that comes from the United States.  Ever again, at least, not while that re-elected soon to be president occupies the white house.  

I guess that is my new sewing goal for 2025: no more sewing supplies or fabric or patterns if they come from the United States.  

Sewing IS political.  


Wednesday, 1 January 2025

A Departure From Garment Sewing

Happy New Year!  

The end of the year had me reflecting on what I have and need to fix.  Top on the list is this saggy bottom arm chair.  


It's been in need of repairs for years, many years now.  It was an antique store find from back-in-the-day and once I removed the covering from the saggy bottom it really showed it's age.  


I carefully removed the burlap ribbons hoping that I would find a replacement in the upholstery section at the local fabric store.  No such luck.  They did have burlap fabric by the metre but no where as strong as was found in the interior of the chair.  


Thankfully, none of the spring were broken.  All I needed was to cover them up.  Instead of burlap, I found an outdoor upholstery fabric that was strong enough to hold the springs in place.  


I didn't start the year off with much sewing or even some pretty stitches.  I didn't even match the thread.  It was mostly a staple gun and tool box kind of project.  Two layers of new fabric, some fray check and a whole lot of staples there is no more saggy bottom.  

It feels good to have this armchair repaired.  


Four More Undershirts to Wear Under the Scoliosis Back Brace: OOP Vogue 9057

After discovering that out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 9057 works as an undershirt to wear under the back brace, work began on making some more.  ...