Part One: Sewing Sleepwear to Wear With a Scoliosis Brace

My go-to sewing patterns for sleepwear have been Butterick 6296 for the top and OOP Vogue 9217 for the bottoms.  I've tried a few other sleepwear patterns but I don't reach for these as much.  Over the years, it's all about Butterick 6296 and OOP Vogue 9217 and when one pair needed replacing, it was another version of the set that made it to the sewing machine.  

That was until the new back brace entered the picture.  Yes, I sleep with this thing.  

And now my go-to pajama top just doesn't cut it.  I can certainly continue wearing my pajama bottoms but I will have to rethink the top situation.  I'll need instead something fitted but not tight underneath the brace.  The goal is to prevent fabric from bunching under the brace, this will help to avoid skin irritation.  I've been wearing these tops in the meantime.  But I want longer sleeves to keep my arms warm and cozy during those cold prairie winters.  

Now, I will give Vogue 1852 a try as my new sleepwear set.  Before I get ready to cut this pattern, I will need to trace it out and make some adjustments.  First up will be adjusting the pattern for the top.  One side of my back is four centimetres wider than the other side.  There is a shoulder adjustment that will need to be made on one side as well.  The length looks like it might need to be lengthened.  

My two resources to help with these adjustment are The Daily Sews 2018 article "How to Alter a Pattern for Scoliosis" which basically paraphrases Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit:  Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure's chapter on Scoliosis.  I have more issues caused by my scoliosis than are discussed in these resources.  But they are a good starting point.  

So, let's start this journey.  

I have a moderate-severe S-shape curvature and a significant rotation of my spine.  During measurements for the new brace, I discovered that one side of my front to back measurement has a four centimetre difference from the other side.  One side of my hip sits higher than the other side.  My shoulders are also not even and it is exaggerated more when wearing and moving in the brace.  

No wonder I'm smitten with asymmetrically designed patterns, it mimics my body shape!  So, the next step is to make this symmetrical designed patterns into an asymmetrical designed pattern.  Sounds easy enough.  Or does it?  Stay tuned for part two.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

An Accidental Design Change: Saddle Sock

The first saddle sock worked out perfectly and there were plans on making a couple more exactly like the first.  And then an accidental redesign happened when the latest version didn't fit quite like the original.  

This happened because of the fabric choice.  There are two made with an organic cotton fleece and this fabric does not have the stretch of the merino wool version.  I struggled to pull the curved end over the section of the Gensingen brace without success.  But that is okay because it is so incredibly soft that words can not properly describe and it covers the portion of the brace that most needs covering.  

Back to this fabric, there is absolutely no comparing this fleece to the polyester imposter typically found in most fabric stores.  I found this fabric at Marshall Fabrics and walked over to the polyester fleece only to see the difference.  At first touch, I was sold on the cotton fleece.  I want all of the saddle socks made in this fabric even if it means that the front tip is not covered.  Bonus point:  cotton fleece is breathable and hypoallergenic.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightning bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  None, it's fleece

Fabric:  0.3 metres

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot and coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing. 

Testing out a Pattern: OOP Vogue 1739

UPDATE

This is a finished version of out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1739, view C.  I can finally call this one a wearable toile and it has been gifted into happy arms.  Phew PHEW!  

There were several alterations to this pattern.  The copy of Vogue 1739 is the smaller size combination and I could have used a larger size.  This meant there were some adjustments made to the upper seams at the centre front, back and sides.  The length was shortened approximately five inches and the pants have an inch top-stitched hem.  Since I didn't know if this would work I didn't interface the front waist facing.  Instead of two rows of elastic, there is one casing made to fit an inch wide elastic.  

FITTING NOTES

This semi-finished pair of pants is a toile version.  There is a lovely wool fabric that is waiting to see if this version fits or if it will need some more adjustments.  

The request came from Mama R who is complaining that her pants are not feeling comfortable anymore.  She also does not care for wide leg pants.  I've made her pants in the past using her treasured out-of-print Simplicity 2372.  As of this moment, I can not find that pattern, not even the back-up version I have somewhere likely packed away for safe keeping.  ~sigh~  But I digress.  

The pants made with OOP Simplicity 2372 currently are too snug across the mid-section when she is sitting down.  So it's back to the cutting table to make a toile with another pattern, OOP Vogue 1739 that I have in my stash.  This pattern features a wide and slim fitting leg and elasticized back.  

Mom is not sold on the elasticized back and is requesting a full elastic waist.  But with the slim leg.  This is why I'm not a fan of sewing for others.  I have basically had to beg her to let me try out this pattern and then work from there if there are changes to be made.  The planning stage of the project was not at all a fun process.  If I can get the basic shape down and if she's still requesting a full elastic pants, I will do as she please.  

Overwhelmed with all her complaining about the fit of her pants and what she likes and doesn't like, I turned to my sewing library for help.  My sewing library is currently packed in cardboard boxes and trying to find the resources that I was looking for also sucked every single ounce of joy out of sewing this toile.  It didn't stop me though.  I love my Mom and am determined to finish a toile for her to try on and prayed that it would be a success.  Or at least a starting point.  

I was searching for Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit, I know that I own a copy of this book but after going through many boxes, it is nowhere to be found.  I did find Slacks Fitting Book by Nancy Zieman which was helpful.  

I used Zieman's method to increase the waistband without leaving the grainline and front darts as marked.  Fingers are crossed for the fitting results.  

Determined to give this pattern a try, I got to work cutting the fabric.  My toile fabric is a medium weight cotton stretch fabric that has been in the stash for decades.  There is a part of me that is sad it was used for toile fabric but then if I haven't used in the past decades what am I saving it for?  If it works as a wearable toile I would be thrilled.  The fabric was previously pre-treated and project ready.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres (width, 115 cm)

Elastic:  0.6 metres -- 1" width

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 1739 (circa 2020), formerly OOP Vogue 9305

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, iron, ironing board, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, tweezers, threads and a pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Gift Sewing: OOP McCall's 7367

I thought my days of sewing vintage and out-of-print (OOP) McCall's 7367 were well behind me.  All my friends are well past the days of starting families and I no longer have workplace baby showers to attend.  I was wrong, there will always be beautiful babies to welcome into the world.  And for this occasion here is the latest baby jumpsuit.  

This is such a cute pattern.  Sewing vintage and OOP McCall's 7367 puts a smile on my face.  Although, working that ribbing around the armholes and legs can prove to be a bit of a challenge.  This time I didn't have to struggle as my cotton ribbing had ample stretch.  It's a well-drafted pattern. 

The fabric is a cotton sweatshirt fleece that I has been in the stash for so long that I don't recall where I found it.  It is left-over fabric from this project.  It was previously pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  The cotton ribbing was a recent purchase that was not pretreated before cutting out the cuff pieces.  My bad.  I know that if I were to shop for cotton sweatshirt fabric like this today, I would leave the store empty handed.  Fabricland is selling cotton sweatshirt fabric for $50 / metre and now-a-days it rarely goes on sale.  Let's just say that I'm so grateful this fabric was in the stash because it's really cozy and cute.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to come from the work table as the convicted felon and his cohort down south escalates his global tariff war and annexation rhetoric.  As inflation is again creeping upwards, it's nice to know that there is a stash to draw from and avoid some of the higher costs that are hitting the stores.    

The fabric was in the stash from non-tariff days.  The snaps were from the stash and were lingering in there for years.  The twill tape is a recent purchase from Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric outlet.  The out-of-print vintage pattern has been in the stash for over three decades and when I pulled it out my heart sank at the discovery that the back pattern piece was missing.  I was thrilled to find another copy of McCall's 7367 online find from an Ontario reseller.  Although, the pattern is a McCall's pattern and was originally printed in the U.S.A., no funds from this purchase supported the convicted felon's economy.  Same goes for the U.S.A. made Fray Check used on the tie ends as it was in the stash for years.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company and was purchased directly from the company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  0.9 metres + 0.3 metres ribbing

Twill tape:  0.5 metres

Snap:  1 medium sized 

Pattern:  vintage and OOP McCall's 7367, circa 1994

Label:  1 "P.S. I LOVE YOU" label from KATM

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, measuring tape, pins, pin cushions, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, AirThread 2000D serger, hand sewing needle, tailor wax, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board, tweezers, lint brush and threads.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Scrap busting: Saddle Sock

You might be wondering what is a saddle sock?  

Basically, it's some silly name that I made up for a section of a Gensingen Brace that is irritating my underarm region.  

Since it is made from leftover scrap merino wool fabric from this project, my mind just thought of it as a sock.  But I digress.  I tried to trace out the shape by rolling the section of the back brace over some paper.  I didn't quite get the right shape but it turned out to be an easy adjustment.  

Now, I just have to test it out.  If it works out there will be more "socks" hitting the work table.

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.    

September in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

Dresses:  Butterick 6784 and Style Arc Top / Jacket

There was sewing this month!  Woohoo!  This was the best way to celebrate National Sewing Month.  All of these were previously cut and ready to sew.  I just needed to change the thread on the machines.  That made it easy.  

I have been going through my wardrobe to reassess what needs to be replaced, altered or recreated into something new.  After sewing the latest version of Butterick 6784, I was reminiscing about the first dress I made with that suiting fabric.  That led to an alteration project, this shirt dress had two and a half inches removed from the hem before taking it to the ironing board and sewing machines for re-hemming. 

In mending news, these sweatpants needed some reinforcement at the centre back seam.  I discover most repairs while ironing clothes. Maybe that is why I'm not a fan of ironing?  But I digress.  It was a straight forward easy fix.  

Stash busting

This month I stashed busted seven metres of fabric, 0.4 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape, six spools of thread, two sewing labels and used one new-to-me pattern.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Monday's Mending Pile

It's been awhile since I focused on mending and alterations.  Things have been piling up and now that I'm switching over clothes to reflect the seasonal change I'm finding more things that need some care and love.  

Source

First up is this shirt dress that needed some attention.  Nothing to mend, it's actually held up well but I don't reach for this dress like I did when I first made it.  It's long, longer than when I first made it, and then throw in that my heel wearing days are behind me.  I look like I am drowning in it.  You see, I've lost some height in the past seven years, I'm not as tall as I was back when I made this dress.  

The shirtdress was shortened two and a half inches and had a rolled hem resewn.  Done!  

Next up was this recently made dress.  Even though I cut it at the same time as this dress, it is longer than the red version.  It's the fabric, the light purple coloured fabric is a four way stretch and has more drape that the red version.  And with the weight of all the fabric, it just hanging longer.  

If I compare the two dresses together there is a three inch difference.  I wanted it a little shorter.  I cut five inches off the bottom and then applied Knit 'N Stable tape and finished it off.  It is still below knee length and it now gives the appearance that it fits better.  Done!  

Next up is a mending project, a simple repair to some broken crotch seams on these sweatpants.  That was easy, no idea why it waited so long.  

And then this coat / jacket caught my attention while going through winter coats and jackets to see if anything needed repairs.  It is shy of two years old and honestly the fabric looked in rough shape.  I am saying this after only wearing it one season, I didn't wear it at all this past winter.  The faux lambs wool 100% polyester fabric pilled that first winter.  It's not pretty.  Fabric makes or breaks a project.  And despite looking like a warm jacket, it didn't hold a candle to the other wool winter coats and jackets I've sewn in the past.  

I'm not sure what I will do with it other than rescuing the rooster button and snaps.  I might try to save the the lining and see if it can be used in future project.  

The last mending task was to reattach and reinforce buttons.  Another easy mending task that I can't explain why it took so long to do.  

Mending Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, thread clippers, fabric scissors, iron, ironing board, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, hand sewing needle, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, tailor's wax and a pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing mending.   

Stash Busting: A Winter Version of Butterick 6784

This is my dream-come-true dress.  It's comfortable, has the best pockets and it's made in the most incredibly beautiful cashmere and wool blend fabric.  

Butterick 6784 is a tried and true (TNT) pattern and the forth version of this dress.  The pattern is well-drafted and designed.  It's another kAtheRine Tilton design and a fun project to sew.  I enjoyed sewing this pattern and have no dislikes to report.  The hem length was shortened by two inches and hemmed with a one and a half blind hem.  I made this version without the collar and interfacing the sleeve facing.  There were no other changes.  

The fabric was pretreated before hitting the cutting table.  This beautiful cashmere and wool blend has been in the stash for eight years and it actually made a previous appearance on the blog here.  I made a shirt dress with this fabric which is still in my wardrobe.  It still fits and it's in excellent condition.  I do like a shirtdress but I haven't been reaching for it lately.  It's not the fabric, the fabric is gorgeous.  It needs the hemline shortened since I've lost some height in the past seven years.  And since I have threads in the serger and sewing machine I think that will be next.  But I digress.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the dryer along with damp towels followed by a steam pressing.  Post-construction, this dress will be treated with care and hand washed when needed.   

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  No sewing supplies used to create this dress contributed to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  The fabric has been in my stash for years, many years, and came from Mitchell Fabrics, a Canadian fabric outlet which closed down in 2017.  The threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütermann thread and likely purchased at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, Butterick 6784, was in the stash for years prior to the convicted felon's global tariff war.  The fabric scissors used are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased via The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company and were purchased directly from KATM last year.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Labels:  2--one fabric label and one "Bespoke" label 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, pins, pin cushion, pin box, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, thread clippers, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, extra bobbins, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, mini vacuum, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, clapper, iron, ironing board, good tunes, heating pad, Dr. Ho, rest breaks, and pumpkin spice latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Pullover Dress with Pockets: Butterick 6784

There are a couple of versions of Butterick 6784 cut and ready to sew.  This is my most recent version.  

Why so many?  Butterick 6784, designed by kAtheRine Tilton, is one comfortable dress and it has generously sized pockets.  That's it, right now in my life, dressing is all about comfort and pockets. I'm working on versions that will keep me comfortable in the autumn and winter months.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with stretch that I found in the discounted section of the fabric store last year.  Why this beautiful fabric with this vibrant colour made it to the discounted section is beyond me.  I'm just thrilled it was there when I spotted this fabric.  It was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam press prior to cutting.    

This is a well-drafted and fun project to sew.  It's a size medium and the only changes to the pattern was to shorten it two inches and to sew a 1 1/2" hem.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  The fabric was found at Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet and was discovered before the convicted felon was voted back into the white house and started his global tariff war.  The "made in U.S.A." pattern, circa 2020, was in the stash before the convicted felon won a second term and did not contribute to his tariff economy.  The cotton thread used to sew the dress and the polyester threads used in the serger are Gütermann threads and were purchased from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The scissors used to cut this project are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were picked up at The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is from KATM, an Australian company purchased directed from the company.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.2 metres

Pattern:  Butterick 6784, circa 2020

Label:  1--"Me Made" KATM label

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables, measuring tape, measuring gauge, pins, pin box, fabric scissors, thread clippers, Janome 4190 QDC sewing machine, threads, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board and many breaks.

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Fall Sewing: The Elita Designer Jacket / Top

Cooler temperatures arrived this week as a reminder that autumn will soon be here.  So, when it came to picking the next project from my cut pile, the Elita Designer Top stood out.  This was a quick and easy make and I was able to sew this in an afternoon.  

This is my first Style Arc pattern and it turned out well.  I found this pattern to be well drafted and fun project.  If I were to struggle to find something to complain about it would be the text size of the instructions.  Without glasses, it's a complete blur!  A magnifying glass might come in handy if this weren't an easy to construct garment.  

I decided to omit the ties because I wasn't certain about the fit and if the placement would be good for my petite stature.  I do like how this wears with a brooch and am glad I left off the ties.  I did not do any adjustments to the pattern when I cut it out.  As you can see, I could shorten the sleeve length although I am not bothered by the rolled sleeves.   And maybe the hem length as well, we'll see.  The edges are left raw but I might go back and finish it with the rolled hem feature on my serger.  I didn't top-stitch anywhere on this project.  Instead, I used my clapper and pressed open the seam allowances.  

The fabric suggestions for the Elita Designer Top are ponte, boiled wool and knit jersey.  The fabric used on this project is a boiled wool.  It was pre-treated with a wet towel in the dryer method.  Hopefully that will take care of any shrinkage.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free sewing project.  No equipment, supplies or notions used to create this jacket contributed to the convicted felon's economy.  The fabric was an end-of-the-season find last year from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The threads are Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used to cut out this project are Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Raw

Fabric:  2 metres

Pattern:  Elita Designer Top

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting tables, fabric scissors, paper scissors, assorted heavy objects used as pattern weights, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, iron, ironing board and clapper.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

In Sewing News Today

Today marks National Little Black Dress Day.  I didn't throw on a LBD but I just want to mark the occasion because it has a deeper meaning behind it other than a fashionable history.  National Little Black Dress day is about raising "awareness of the importance of having a healthy heart and taking essential measures to maintain cardiovascular health."  And this has a connection with sewing.  Sewing is good for a maintaining a healthy heart.  

I can't say that my main motivation for sewing is my heart health but it nice to know that this is yet another benefit associated with a hobby that I enjoy.  

I've sewn many black dresses over the years, some were gifted and some were for myself. Only the black turtleneck has survived the years of weight gain and loss.  Sadly, I shrank it and the length is shorter than I want.  Maybe it might be time to sew another LBD?  

Today also marks National Sewing Month.  I can't find any mention of any specific theme for 2025 which is different from previous years.  No worries, there are many reasons to celebrate our sewing journeys, right?  Whatever reason you chose to celebrate sewing activities, I hope it is a productive and joyful time well spent.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

August in Review

Sewing, Alterations and Mending

This is the most productive I've been at the sewing machine since February.  Back then I also managed to sew six items.  To be completely honest, I'm surprised that I a) found the time and b) had the energy to pull off this many projects from the sewing machine.  Tis the season of yardwork.  But I digress.  It certainly did help that three of the dresses were previously cut and ready to sew.  There are still some more pre-cut projects waiting for some free time.  

In the alteration department, this dress made it back to the work table to have the hemline lowered.  In mending news, the mending pile continues to grow as I discover new breaks in various seams or hand stitching while ironing clothes.  And then it's a quick run to the sewing machine for some repair work because loved clothes last.  It feels like the sewing machine sees more action in the mending department.   

The heating pad needed some attention as it started shedding its filling.  This project was hand stitched mending job I couldn't put off any longer.  Nothing fancy, it was a quick get it done and forget about making it pretty job.  

What to Wear?  

I'm asking that question once again as I'm trying to adjust to wearing a night scoliosis brace.  I'm trading in my pajama tops for padded t-shirts.  There might be the need to add some more t-shirts into rotation, maybe with longer sleeves for those cooler nights that are certainly coming in the next couple of months.   

Stash busting

This past month, I managed to stash bust 13.9 metres of fabric, 0.65 metres of elastic, 9.3 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape, two spools of thread and six sewing labels.  Of the three patterns used this month, one was new.   

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Children's Leggings: McCall's 7709

One more gift sewing project, the leggings, from McCall's 7709.  

I will have to give this a good pressing before I wrap this one up.  These leggings are sewn in a size six.  The pattern is rated as "very easy" and this certainly applies to this project.  There are no side seams and it can easiest be stitched in less than an hour.  

The fabric is another scrap busted piece.  This fabric first appeared here and is a 67% bamboo, 28% cotton and 5% spandex blend.  It was previously pretreated so I was able to get right to work on this project.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  The fabric was in the stash for many moons.  The "designed and printed in the U.S.A." pattern was a recent and tariff free purchase as the Big Four patterns are on a liquidation sale due to the U.S. tariffs.  The Gutermann threads are from the stash.  The label is a KATM project from an Australian company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Elastic:  0.65 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  0.5 metres

Label:  1 KATM "You Are Loved" label

Pattern:  McCall's 7709

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, fabric scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, mini vacuum, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, thread clippers, iron, ironing board and chai latte.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

Children's Top: McCall's 7709

This is another gift project made with McCall's 7709.  

The fabric has made a previous appearance here and here as adult tops.  This project is made with left over fabric that turned out to be enough for a wee gal's top.  It is a lovely medium weight cotton and spandex knit that I found at Marshall Fabrics a couple of years ago.  It was previously pretreated and ready to cut.  

The pattern, McCall's 7709, was an easy project to sew.  No issues to report and it is recommended for a beginner willing to give sewing with knits a try.  The only thing that I changed was the length on the hem, shortening it by one and a half inches and sewing an one inch topstitched hem.  

Sewing IS Political

This is another Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  No fabric or supplies used to make this top contributed to the convicted felon's economy.  The fabric, purchased a couple of years ago, came from Marshall Fabric, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The "designed and printed in the U.S.A." pattern was purchased during a liquidation sale in part of the consequences of the convicted felon's global tariffs.  To be honest, I don't think I would have added anymore children's patterns to the stash otherwise. The threads were all pulled from the stash and are Gütermann threads.  The fabric scissors used are Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom business and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company, purchased directly from their website.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged  

Fabric:  0.8 metre

Label:  1 KATM  "You Are Loved" label

Pattern:  McCall's 7709

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, fabric scissors, Janome 4190 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, lint brush, tweezers, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Children's Dress: McCall's 7709

This is a gift sewing project.  

McCall's 7709 is a new-to-me pattern.  An easy peasy project with just three pattern pieces.  It was a quick sewing project and would be great for a beginner willing to try sewing with knits and involves a wee bit of gathering on the sleeves.  I'm not a fan of the recommended finish on the neckline and decided to skip the rolled hem.  I thought it would be too bulky especially around the pleats and instead finished the edge on the serger and then turned it over once, stitching in place.  Otherwise, the pattern is cute and it was a fun project to sew.  

The fabric has been in the stash for over a decade.  It is left-over from a dress I made for my mom, many moons ago.  There was one metre of this floral cotton sateen left-over and it was too nice to let it go.  I often thought of making a top or using it with another fabric.  It just happens to be enough for this project.  

The fabric suggestions for McCall's 7709 did not call for a woven but over on Pattern Review, someone made a lovely version of this dress in a non-knit.  And since this cotton sateen has a 35% stretch which matches the recommended stretch guide on the pattern calling for "moderate stretch knits," I thought why not give it a try?  What do you think?  

Sewing IS Political

This dress is the latest Canadian 🍁made and tariff free project to come off the sewing machine.  As previously mentioned, the cotton sateen fabric was leftover from a previous dress project.  It came from Fabricland, a Canadian fabric retailer.  The "designed and printed in the U.S.A." pattern is a non-tariffed product that was part of a recent clearance sale at Fabricland.  According to the online article, "Parent Company of the Big Four Pattern Brands Sold to a Liqidator" by Abby Glassenberg, "IG Design Group cited the impact of tariffs imposed by the USA as a factor."  The Big Four patterns will no longer be available in retail stores here.  That is why I momentarily put my elbows down and picked up this dress pattern.  Now, our only option to shop the Big Four patterns in the future, if this tariff war and annexation threats ever ends, is to shop online.  Instead, I'll be keeping a watchful eye out for second hand pattern finds from now on so not to contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  The threads used were Gütermann threads.  The label is from KATM, an Austrailian company.  

Project details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch 

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1 metre

Label:  1 KATM "YOU ARE LOVED" label

Pattern:  McCall's 7709

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, straight edge ruler, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, screwdriver, blind hem foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, measure gauge, threads, thread clippers, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, iron, ironing board, tea and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

More Nostalgic Sewing: Vogue 9268

Here is another version of Vogue 9268.  

I think I have already mentioned that Vogue 9268 is a favourite pattern?  It's nice to have another version of this dress to wear when the mood strikes.  Over the years, I made four versions of this pattern but as of today, there are now only two sitting in the closet.  There were some lessons learnt along the way.  This pattern does well with a knit fabric that has some drape.  

The pattern recommends rayon / spandex, cotton / spandex and ITY knits.  I avoid rayon fabrics so that suggestion falls on deaf ears.  The first version I made was in an ITY knit, it draped beautifully.  Over the years since making that one, I stopped wearing polyester.  So, the first one found it's way to the donation pile.  The second version I made did not have enough drape and ended up being refashioned and then I outgrew the revision.  This version is made with a bamboo French terry.  

The fabric has been in the stash for years.  I will admit that I was a bit nervous about this fabric when I first picked it up.   It is made up of 67% bamboo, 28% cotton and 5% spandex and shrinkage would play a part in how it wears.  Bamboo is said to have a shrinkage rate of 6%, whereas cotton has a 4% rate.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing cycle and time in the dryer.  Just in case any further shrinkage may occur, I will be handwashing and hanging this dress to dry.  It has a lovely drape for this pattern.  

The pattern did have some changes and alterations before it was used to cut the fabric.  First up was shortening the length.  And even though I made view A and shortened the pattern, it looks like I made myself view B.  The sleeve length was also shortened.  Then I changed the V-neckline to a rounded neckline.  The dress pieces were cut on the fold eliminating the centre front and back seams.  I cut the dress as a medium with the exception for the side seam at the underarm to the waist which was cut at the large cutting lines.  Since I have scoliosis, I'm not all that keen on close-fitting knits across parts of my back.  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project to come off the sewing machine.  The fabric has been in the stash for quite some time.  I discovered it in the discounted section at Fabricland, a Canadian retailer.  The threads used to make this dress were a combination of Coats and Clark and Gütermann threads and were all pulled from the stash.  Once the Coats and Clark threads are de-stashed they will not be replaced.  I'm a loyal Gütermann thread gal now and I'm not going back to Coats and Clark threads.  The Vogue pattern has been in the stash since it first appeared on the scene and did not contribute to the convicted felon's tariff economy.  Vogue 9268 is designed by Kathryn Brenne, a Canadian designer.  The fabric scissors used are Merchant and Mills, a United Kingdom company and were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian fabric outlet.  The label is another KATM product from an Australian company.  I ordered these directly from KATM.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  4 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  3.3 metres

Label:  1 KATM "Look After Me" label 

Pattern:  Vogue 9268, circa 2017

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting tables (2), pins, pin cushions, measuring table, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, assorted heavy objects to use as weights while cutting, fabric scissors, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, many breaks, chai latte and some good tunes.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  

 

A Pullover Knit Dress: Vogue 9268

This project is about revisiting an once upon a time favourite pattern, Vogue 9268, and stash-busting some fabric.  I made Vogue 9268 when it first was released in 2017 and then another version a couple of months later.  Currently, those two dresses are no longer in my closet.  I gave up wearing polyester which was fibre content of the first version and the second cotton knit version did not have enough drape to make this design work.  Fabric choice matters as much as sewing techniques.  

Enter the latest version of Vogue 9268.  This dress is made in a light weight cotton knit.  This fabric came from Mitchell Fabrics, prior to their closure.  This fabric has been in the stash for over a decade.  So, it is nice to finally stash bust most of the yardage.  There is enough leftover fabric to make a t-shirt.  

The fabric was pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  It hit the ironing board for a steam pressing before hitting the cutting table.  It was a lovely fabric to sew and it makes me miss Mitchell Fabrics more than normally I do.  

The pattern is still a favourite, it is so comfortable.  There were some tweaks to the pattern prior to cutting out the project.  I shortened the length since I am currently shorter than the first time I sewed this dress.  I cut the shorter version and it's still long and I'm okay with that.  I also shortened the sleeve length and it's still a long sleeve version.  I cut the pattern as a size medium except for the small section at the side seam from the underarm to where it curves out towards the drape of the skirt.  At this section I cut at the large size markings.  The neckline was changed, eliminating the V-neck shape.  The front and back pattern pieces were cut on the fold.  

Vogue 9268 is a well drafted pattern and came together quickly.  Need I say more?  

Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  I don't know if you heard about the increase in tariffs against Canada a few days ago.  

Artist: Bruce MacKinnon, Halifax Chronicle-Herald

Yup, the convicted felon, sexual abuser, pathological liar and TACO man is as predictable as ever.  No one is surprised that the convicted felon imposed higher tariffs on Canada at the beginning of the month.  So predictable.  And so the boycott of American products continues in the sewing workspace and all other areas of Canadian life.  

The fabric used in this project was from Mitchell Fabrics, a now-closed Canadian fabric outlet.  The pattern is a "Made in the U.S.A." product that has been in the stash prior to the convicted felon started the tariff war against the world.  Knit 'N Stable tape used is a Pellon brand product, an American company.  It, as well as the pattern, did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy because it has been in the stash for years.  Once I run out of the remaining Knit 'N Stable tape sitting in the stash, it won't be replaced and I will instead turn to my Coverstitch machine for finished hems on knits.  The sewing label is from KATM, an Australian company.  The fabric scissors are from Merchant and Mills, an United Kingdom company.   The threads used in the sewing machine and serger are Güterman threads, a German company.  

Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam allowance:  Serged

Fabric:  4.2 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  3.30 metres

Label:  KATM "Be Bold" label

Pattern:  Vogue 9268, circa 2017.

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table x 2, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, tailor's chalk, good tunes, measuring tape, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, thread clippers, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.