January in Review

Sewing Projects

Orange oversized sweatshirt, OOP Simplicity 8529; blue and white long sleeve t-shirt, OOP Simplicity 2372; blue flannel pajama set, OOP Simplicity 2372 and OOP and vintage Simplicity 6851

January's sewing projects were all about sewing comfortable everyday items.  The pajama set and long sleeve t-shirt were gifted pieces.  The orange oversized sweatshirt was a toile project.  There was nothing challenging with these except maybe trying to find some free time and energy to actually sew. 

 

Cheating 

Top left to right:  Chai concentrate; Chocolate Cake for National Chocolate Cake Day; Morkovcha (Korean Carrot Salad).  Bottom left to right:  gluten-free Lemon Banana and Chai seed bread; Tomato and Lentil soup for those cold January days; gluten-free brownies; and spiced roasted nuts. 

Okay maybe that's not completely true, I've been cheating on this hobby called sewing and spending some extra time in the kitchen trying out some new recipes this month.  And maybe enjoying a piece of chocolate cake to celebrate National Chocolate Cake Day.  I might have to spend some extra time exercising next month.  But I digress.  

Mending and Refashioning

Front facing pieces needed to be re-stitched on the blue hoodie made back in 2016, OOP Butterick 6253; some visible mending on a RTW wool sweater; a white slip, made in 2014, was shortened into a camisole, OOP Simplicity 8666; and cotton tweed pants made last fall was refashioned into a skirt, Vogue 9246.

There always seems to be mending around to do.  But this month I actually did a refashion project and changed a pair of pants into a skirt.  

Stash Busting

I discovered that a local business will purchase previously cherished fabric.  The Fabric Collective will take natural fiber textiles in exchange for cash.  And I was able to stash-bust twenty-nine metres of previously cherished fabrics.  The last of the velveteen was part of the exchange as I came to realize that sewing little girl velvet dresses, although extremely cute, are a challenge that I rather not tackle anymore.  Not all of the yardage was velveteen, but all were pieces that were either left over from other projects or fabrics that are too fancy for my current lifestyle.  In addition to this, another 7.6 metres of fabric, 4 buttons, 1 metre of elastic, 1.2 metres of Knit 'N Stable tape and 1.2 metres of interfacing were stash-busted this month.  

What's Next?  

I'm intrigued with the first round of Pattern Review's Sewing Bee and am going to give it a try.  And of course, I'm ready to tackle that sweatshirt project after sewing the toile.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash busting: Sew House Seven Pullover Sweater / OOP Simplicity 8529

 

Out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 8529 hit the work table several times in the past, more than half a dozen times.  Of all the previous versions, this is the first attempt at sewing view D, the sweatshirt style.  This project was meant to be a test version before cutting into more precious fabric.  The goal was to create an oversized sweatshirt in a sweatshirt fleece fabric.  But have you seen fabric store prices of sweatshirt fleece lately?  That fabric dream vanished quickly.  

I am trying to see if I can piece together enough sweatshirt fleece scraps to maybe 🤞 make a patchwork version sometime in the future.  But I digress.  

This version is made with a Ponte knit.  Also known as Ponte de Roma, it's a double knit fabric made out of man-made fibers.  Yes, there is Ponte de Roma in the stash.  As a self-professed natural fabric lover, my secret is out.  Let's move on.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  

There were no changes to the pattern.  Size large was traced out for this version and on my frame it is oversized.  Just what I was looking for, however, the next version I will have to shorten the length of the sleeve pattern piece.  

Project Details

Seams:  Knit stitch

Seam finish:  serged

Fabric:  1.4 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 8529

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, flip board paper, black marker, paper scissors, fabric scissors, various small and heavy objects used as pattern weights, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, tweezer, threads, thread clippers and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

Refashioning Pants into a Skirt

Back in September, Vogue 9246 hit the work table and then again the next month because the first pair did not fit quite right.  Fast forward a couple more months and the first pair are back on the work table to see if they can be saved.  

They were saved by changing them from a pair of pants into a skirt.  The front pleat overlay design feature and the comfort of the back elasticized waistband were saved and make make this a refashion project worth my time.  

And it didn't take much time.  All I did was cut the inner leg seam connecting the front to back piece and laid it out on the work table.  From there I redrew the stitching line with some tailor's chalk and stitched the two front pieces together and did the same for the two back pieces.  The hem was shortened three inches and an one inch top-stitched hem was stitched.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Upcycled a pair of pants

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, tailor's chalk, scissors, pins, pin cushion, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, threads, thread clippers and coffee.  

Happy Sewing!

Stash / Scrap busting: Long-sleeve Pull-over Knit Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

About two months ago, a short sleeved version of out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372 in this exact same fabric was created and gifted.  So why am I sewing another?   

It's all about the sleeves.  The request came across my work table for another one but this time with long sleeves.  The problem to overcome is that there was only 1.12 metres + a bit of this fabric left over from the first version.  Hmmm, perhaps this is a scrap busting project instead of a stash busting one?  But I digress.  This fabric was actually picked out for a wrap dress, only to discover that it was short on yardage.  So it became a t-shirt and there was enough left over for another, hopefully with longer sleeves.  

Thankfully, it worked out.  The fabric was previously pre-washed with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer so it was ready for a revisit to the cutting table.  

Sewing Techniques, Tips and Tricks

First thing I should address is how did I manage to cut a long sleeve version out of 1.12 metres of fabric when the pattern calls for one metre for the short sleeve version?  Check out the pattern piece layout printed on the pattern instruction sheets.  OOP Simplicity 2372 has all the pattern pieces laid out in one direction, the bottom of the sleeve in the same directional lay out as the bottom hem of the the top pieces.  Instead, just look at the pattern pieces as a puzzle piece that you need to fit in the yardage at hand.  In this case, the main pattern pieces were placed like so.  

This rough drawing, of course, is not to scale and the pattern pieces for the front (F) and back (B) were almost touching at the bottom hem sides.  You get the gist, right?  And I did have to forgo a center back that was placed on the fold.  Like I said, this version was all about the sleeves.  Of course, this only worked because the fabric did not have a one-way design or nap.  

There were enough bits and pieces large enough to cut the neck facings.  But if there wasn't I would pull out some other knit to finish the neckline.  Who would know that it wasn't matching and besides, who cares?  Just call it a creative decision!  

This might look like an easy-peasy t-shirt project but did you know there are twelve tucks and two darts?  To save time with the marking of the darts and tucks here is a trick once shared by Tilly over at Tilly and the Buttons.  Clip the edge of your fabric to mark the beginning of the dart.  And then with tailor's chalk mark the end.  Connect the markings with the tailor's chalk and you're ready to sew.  

The final tip to share is all about the hem finish.  When working with knits there are two things that I use to finish a hem: a walking foot and Knit 'N Stable tape.  Give it a try.  

Project Details

Seams:  Machine knit stitch (also known as the lightening bolt stitch)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.12 metres

Interfacing:  0.40 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, various heavy objects used as pattern weights, scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, a full bobbin, Janome serger, screwdriver, tweezers, threads, thread clipper and oh-so-sweet free time to spend at the sewing machine.  

Happy Sewing!

Saturday's Mending Pile

Today's mending pile was a breeze to get through.  All thanks to a bit of free time at the serger.  

This slip made it to the mending pile not for a repair, rather to shorten it into a camisole.  It is almost nine years old!  

It felt good to know that this item has been in rotation for this long and now has a new purpose.  The hem on the slip was a twin needle hem.  This time around it was finished with the roll hem feature on the serger.  

This item ended up on the mending pile as soon as these two small holes were discovered while folding laundry.  It's a RTW merino wool crew neck sweater.  It's toasty warm so mending was in order.  

After changing the colour of thread on the serger, the rolled hem was used to hide the holes into what we'll say is "decorative stitching."  

Happy Mending!  

National Ribbon Skirt Day

It's official.  Today, officially marks National Ribbon Skirt Day.  

January 4, 2023
Ottawa, Ontario

The Prime Minister, Justin Trudeau, today issued the following statement on National Ribbon Skirt Day:

“Today, I join all those across Canada who are marking the first National Ribbon Skirt Day, whether that be through celebration, ceremony, or with community. Every year from now on, January 4 will be an opportunity for us all to learn more about and to celebrate Indigenous cultures, traditions, histories, and contributions to this diverse country.

“Passed unanimously into law by Parliament last month, National Ribbon Skirt Day originates with the story of Isabella Kulak. A member of Cote First Nation, Saskatchewan, Isabella was shamed for wearing her handmade ribbon skirt to a formal wear day at her elementary school. Traditionally worn by First Nations and Métis peoples, ribbon skirts are a centuries-old symbol of identity, adaptation, and survival for Indigenous women, girls, and gender-diverse people, and represents a direct connection to Mother Earth. Isabella’s story shone a light on the enduring injustices, racism, and discrimination faced by First Nations, Inuit, and Métis in Canada every day, and on the importance of the role we all have to play in making sure that what happened never happens again to anyone in Canada.

“Raising awareness of and protecting the unique and deeply personal traditions of Indigenous communities is essential to advancing reconciliation as a society, as well as building relationships and connections based on mutual respect and understanding. The Government of Canada is working in partnership with Indigenous Peoples to protect and promote their cultures and traditions, which are critical to the vitality and well-being of their communities. This includes our ongoing efforts through the Federal Pathway to Address Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women, Girls and 2SLGBTQQIA+ People to assist in the revitalization and strengthening of Indigenous cultures and identity. We also continue to work closely with First Nations, Inuit, and Métis to implement the United Nations Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples Act and develop an action plan that will help ensure the inherent rights of all Indigenous Peoples are respected. These are important steps in our ongoing work to renew our nation-to-nation, Inuit-Crown, and government-to-government relationships through respect, healing, and cooperation.

“This National Ribbon Skirt Day, I invite everyone to learn from Indigenous Peoples about their cultures and histories – from languages to traditional ceremonies and regalia to ancestral ties to the land. Together, let us amplify Indigenous voices and stand up against racism and discrimination to build a better society for everyone.”

Stash busting: Flannel Pajamas, OOP Simplicity 6851 and OOP Simplicity 5490

The first project off the sewing machine this year, a flannel pajama set, will be gifted.  

Vintage and out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 6851 is a slip and robe pattern.  The robe pattern is the inspiration for the pajama top.  The pattern has shoulder darts, front bodice darts, front pockets and a 3/4 length bell sleeve.  The robe was shortened more than eight inches to just below the bottom of the pocket placement.  The sleeves were narrowed and I intended to lengthen them but forgot to do so.  Oops.  The cuff pattern piece from Butterick 6296 added some length to the sleeve.  

OOP Simplicity 2372 is a coordinates pattern which includes patterns for a dress, jacket, top, pants and skirt.  Since, the elastic-waist, pull-on pants worked well in the past, the pants pattern was used for the pajama bottoms.  The top part of the pants pattern pieces, just above the waistline marking, were shortened an inch and the waistband pattern piece from OOP Vogue 9217 was added.  

Sewing Techniques, Tips and Tricks

This one-way printed cotton flannel fabric from Fabricland required some attention prior to the cutting stage.  Cotton typically shrinks at about a 4% rate so first pre-shrinking was in order.  Pre-shrink your fabric in the manner that you plan to wash the finished project.  This fabric was pre-washed in the washing machine and dried in the dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Flannel and flannelette fabrics have a nap.  This nap give flannel it's soft hand and makes it a warmer fabric--perfect for Canadian winter sleepwear.  One-way design fabrics require some special attention when laying out your pattern pieces.  Considering that this is a one-way printed fabric with a nap, laying all the pieces in the same direction is important to the overall feel and look of the project.  When working with these characteristics, a little extra fabric is recommended above what is listed on the pattern envelope.  

Invest in a buttonhole cutter.  It removes the risk of accidently cutting beyond the buttonhole stitches with scissors, thread clippers or a seam ripper.  

This project has four darts and since the project is made with flannel it was the perfect opportunity to use Nancy Zieman's technique.  Instead of leaving a long strand of upper and lower threads at the dart's point for tying.  Zieman's methods requires to keep stitching and creating a chain and then lift the presser foot up, readjust the position of the needle just above the dart's point within the fold of the fabric and sew a few stitches, backstitching or using your lock stitch feature.  

Cotton fabric or muslin can be substituted for store bought interfacing.  

Project Details

Seams:  2.6 straight stitch

Top-stitching:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  5 metres

Interfacing:  0.8 metres

Buttons:  4 - 1" buttons

Elastic:  1 metre 

Patterns:  OOP Simplicity 6851 and OOP Simplicity 2372, additional pieces from OOP Vogue 9217 and Butterick 6296.  

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, iron, ironing board, measuring tape, scissors, measuring gauge, ruler, tailor's chaulk, pins, pin cushions, Janome sewing machine, screwdriver, lint brushes, tweezers, mini vacuum, walking foot, buttonhole foot, threads, thread clippers, Janome serger, hand sewing needle, tailor's wax, safety pins, cutting board, button hole cutter, hammer and coffee.   

Sew What Makes You Happy!