Stash / Scrap busting: Long-sleeve Pull-over Knit Top / OOP Simplicity 2372

About two months ago, a short sleeved version of out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 2372 in this exact same fabric was created and gifted.  So why am I sewing another?   

It's all about the sleeves.  The request came across my work table for another one but this time with long sleeves.  The problem to overcome is that there was only 1.12 metres + a bit of this fabric left over from the first version.  Hmmm, perhaps this is a scrap busting project instead of a stash busting one?  But I digress.  This fabric was actually picked out for a wrap dress, only to discover that it was short on yardage.  So it became a t-shirt and there was enough left over for another, hopefully with longer sleeves.  

Thankfully, it worked out.  The fabric was previously pre-washed with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer so it was ready for a revisit to the cutting table.  

Sewing Techniques, Tips and Tricks

First thing I should address is how did I manage to cut a long sleeve version out of 1.12 metres of fabric when the pattern calls for one metre for the short sleeve version?  Check out the pattern piece layout printed on the pattern instruction sheets.  OOP Simplicity 2372 has all the pattern pieces laid out in one direction, the bottom of the sleeve in the same directional lay out as the bottom hem of the the top pieces.  Instead, just look at the pattern pieces as a puzzle piece that you need to fit in the yardage at hand.  In this case, the main pattern pieces were placed like so.  

This rough drawing, of course, is not to scale and the pattern pieces for the front (F) and back (B) were almost touching at the bottom hem sides.  You get the gist, right?  And I did have to forgo a center back that was placed on the fold.  Like I said, this version was all about the sleeves.  Of course, this only worked because the fabric did not have a one-way design or nap.  

There were enough bits and pieces large enough to cut the neck facings.  But if there wasn't I would pull out some other knit to finish the neckline.  Who would know that it wasn't matching and besides, who cares?  Just call it a creative decision!  

This might look like an easy-peasy t-shirt project but did you know there are twelve tucks and two darts?  To save time with the marking of the darts and tucks here is a trick once shared by Tilly over at Tilly and the Buttons.  Clip the edge of your fabric to mark the beginning of the dart.  And then with tailor's chalk mark the end.  Connect the markings with the tailor's chalk and you're ready to sew.  

The final tip to share is all about the hem finish.  When working with knits there are two things that I use to finish a hem: a walking foot and Knit 'N Stable tape.  Give it a try.  

Project Details

Seams:  Machine knit stitch (also known as the lightening bolt stitch)

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.12 metres

Interfacing:  0.40 metres

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.2 metres

Pattern:  OOP Simplicity 2372

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, various heavy objects used as pattern weights, scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, iron, ironing board, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, a full bobbin, Janome serger, screwdriver, tweezers, threads, thread clipper and oh-so-sweet free time to spend at the sewing machine.  

Happy Sewing!