Wednesday, 11 June 2025

Stash Busting: Wearable Toile / OOP Butterick 6859

This top is made with a light-weight cotton knit and out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 6859.  It's made as a wearable toile to test the fit before I proceed onto my preferred fabric choice.  



I cut a size medium but I was worried if there was enough ease so I pinned the top of the bodice pieces at the neckline and pivoted away from the fold at the hemline.  



I also have the larger size combination of this pattern.  I thought I would start with the medium and see where I would have to go from there.  The fit is great.  If I didn't pivot at the hemline fold it would be a more fitted shirt.  

I did end up straightening the hemline.  From the side seam I removed about an inch and a half and removed the hemline curve.  The hemlines were finished with Knit 'N Stable tape before serging the edge and topstitching with a one inch hem.  


This is a lovely pattern.  It's well drafted.  I adore the gathering on the raglan seam of the sleeves.  And I wouldn't mind making the sweatshirt version with a kangaroo pocket one day.  


Sewing IS Political

This is the latest Canadian 🍁 made and tariff free project.  Everything used to make this t-shirt was found in the stash.  

The pattern, OOP Butterick 6859, was designed (circa 2022) and printed in the U.S.A.  Most of my sewing patterns found in the stash are from the Big Four.  I felt deeply sad to read that IG Design Group sold the pattern division to a liquidator citing the impact of the tariffs imposed by the U.S. administration as a factor.  It is incredibly sad and heart breaking to see how the convicted felon's tariffs (it's a tax) is hurting businesses and consumers around the globe.  


Project details

Seams:  Knit (lightening bolt) stitch

Seam finish:  Serged  

Knit 'N Stable tape:  1.5 metres

Fabric:  1.2 metres


Pattern
:  OOP Butterick 6859

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome Air Thread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, and a decaf coffee.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing.  


Monday, 2 June 2025

It Has Pockets! The Assembly Line's Tulip Skirt / S:402

I've made a few Tulip dresses in the past but this is my first Tulip skirt which has some of the best design elements of the Tulip dress.  I am a fan of the front side pockets and the tulip shape of the skirt.  

It is a comfortable skirt and I do recommend this pattern.  I cut a size large knowing that it was going to be too big if I sewed the recommended seam allowance.  I thought if I sewed 5/8" seam allowances I would come closer to the fit I need.  In the end, I think I should have cut a size medium and could still have sewn a 5/8" seam allowance and achieve a good fit.  

The length was shortened two and a half inches and there is an one and a half inch hem.  The pockets were raised about an inch, three inches down from the waist cut edge.  

The fabric is a medium weight cotton sateen with some stretch that I pulled from the stash.  It was pretreated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  


Sewing IS Political

This skirt is the latest Canadian 🍁 and tariff free make.  Most of the material and supplies were found in the stash.  Some of the threads were new for this project.  

Sewing is a reprieve from all the chaos in the world.  After a recent visit to Canada from a bipartisan group of U.S. senators and listening to Senator Kevin Cramer during the press conference just makes me want to boycott American products more than I already am, if that is even possible.  It's not just the convicted felon's rhetoric regarding tariffs and annexation, it's also those who support him that is beyond belief.  And as a Canadian and consumer there is no way I would contribute or support the American economy while this is happening.  No means NO!  What part of that do these republicans and MAGA supporters not understand about no?  Even after the King of Canada read the Throne Speech, the annexation rhetoric continued to echo from across the border.  Let's not get me started on the U.S. Ambassador to Canada's view of the 51st comments and boycott of American products.  Again, mind blowing.  Trust me when I say there are plenty of American products on the store shelves in the hardware, grocery store and fabric stores, no one is buying it while the economic war, tariffs and annexation / 51st state rhetoric continues to circulate.  But I digress.  

Let's count the ways that this lovely project did not contribute to the convicted felon's economy.  

  1. The Tulip skirt pattern is from The Assembly Line, a pattern company from Sweden.  I picked up this pattern after I stopped shopping American products which sadly meant saying good-bye to any future Vogue patterns.  I don't miss the American line of sewing patterns anymore, I actually found some beautiful patterns in queue from across the pond to keep me busy for the next while.  This Tulip skirt pattern is one of those patterns.  
  2. The cotton sateen fabric was found in the stash and purchased before the convicted felon took office for the second time.  I found it in the discounted section of Fabricland, a Canadian fabric store.  
  3. The scissors used to cut the fabric are Merchant and Mills, a company from the United Kingdom.  They were purchased from The Workroom, a Canadian company.  
  4. This project was sewn on Janome machines, a Japanese company.  
  5. The zipper is a recycled 22" zipper from a previous project that was cut to size.  
  6. Some of the threads used in the sewing machine and serger were Gütenmann threads from Europe and were purchased at Marshall Fabrics, a western Canadian fabric store.   There were some vintage spools of Ballet® brand threads found in Mom's thread box that were a close colour match and used in the serger.  
  7. The label is from Kylie and the Machine (KATM), an Australian company and purchased directly from them to avoid shopping on Etsy.  


Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  serged

Fabric:  2.5 metres

Basting tape:  0.60 metres

Zipper:  20 centimetres


Pattern
:  The Assembly Line S:402

Sewing Label:  1--KATM "me made" label 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, paper scissors, fabric scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, wrist pin cushion, Janome 4120 QDC sewing machine, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Janome AirThread 2000D serger, threads, thread clippers, lint brush, mini vacuum, tailor's wax, hand sewing needle, iron and ironing board.  

Stand strong, elbows up and keep sewing!

Stash Busting: Wearable Toile / OOP Butterick 6859

This top is made with a light-weight cotton knit and out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 6859.  It's made as a wearable toile to test the fit b...