June in Review

Sewing, Mending and Alterations 

Top L to R:  navy cotton sateen pullover top (Closet Core's Ebony), cotton caftan (McCall's 8516), denim gardening apron (Tessuti apron).  Bottom L to R:  cotton shirt (OOP and vintage Simplicity 7840), cotton butterfly print shirt (Butterick 5891), cotton sateen pull-on skirt (The Assembly Line S:403).  

This month I've been working on summer-time appropriate garments but it feels like we have skipped summer and went straight into one fierce mosquito season.  Locally, the area has seen a lot of rain, perfect conditions for mosquito breeding and hanging out indoors at the sewing machine.  

Mending wise, broken stitches were repaired on pajama tops.  No alterations, although the gardening apron was made from a recycled skirt that no longer fit.  

Sewing Challenges

This month I participated in #sewcaftan2024.  I actually picked up Vogue 1886 a couple of years ago and then never made it after reading a pattern review that advised it wasn't suitable for petite sized women.  And then McCall's 8516 came on the scene and I thought since it has a shorter version that I might give it a try.  At first, I wasn't sure about it until I put it on and now I'm a caftan convert.  It's very comfortable.  Now I want to give the Vogue caftan a try.  

Stash-busting 

Stash busted this month:

• 12.1 metres fabric + recycled skirt
• 16 buttons
• 1 metre elastic
• 2 sewing labels
• 4.3 metres interfacing

Stash-busted totals for 2024:

• 58.5 metres fabric
• 8.6 metres interfacing
• 6 invisible zippers
• 2 metres Knit 'N Stable tape
• 6 metres trim
• 8 sewing labels
• 25 buttons
• 5 metres elastic
• 14 thread spools
• 4.3 basting tape

Total additions this year:

• 14 thread spools
• 11 sewing patterns
• 10--20 mm buttons
• 7.8 metres trim
• 15 metres fabric
• 1 cover stitch machine.  

Happy Sewing!

Cotton Pullover top: Closet Core's Ebony

 

First, before anything else, let's talk about the fabric used for this project.  It's a light-weight cotton sateen with some stretch.  Yes, I did use a woven fabric for this latest Ebony top.  I figured since this is a loose-fitting tent style top that it could work in a woven fabric.  And I'm thrilled with how it turned out, it's very comfortable.  

The fabric has been in the stash for decades and it was previously pre-treated with a tumble in the washing machine and dryer.  It did hit the ironing board for a steam press this morning before moving to the work table for cutting.  

The pattern is absolutely a keeper and a quick project to put together.  Perfect project for beginners.  Since I was working with a woven, there wasn't enough stretch for the neckline piece to stretch into place.  A trip back to the cutting table for a new piece.  This time I cut it on the bias and extended the length a wee bit.  If there was some navy ribbing fabric in the stash, it would have been perfect.  But now that I'm thinking about it, there is some cotton knit that would have worked perfectly.  Oops.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Pattern:  Closet Core's (formerly known as Closet Case) Ebony

Additional Tools and Supplies:   Cutting table, tailor's chalk, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, thread clippers, Janome serger, threads (cotton thread for the sewing machine and polyester threads for the serger), sleeve ham, iron, ironing board, back brace, heat pad and a smoothie break.  

Happy Sewing!

Denim Apron: Tessuti Apron Pattern

This denim gardening apron is made from recycled and fabric scraps.  

The lower part of this apron is recycled from this skirt project.  The straps and upper portion are made with scrap pieces left over from this jeans project.  This project was all about using what I had around the worktable.  

The pattern is Tessuti's free PDF apron pattern.  It's the second one that I've made.  The first version was created without any changes.  This version was extended six inches and the back lower corners were curved.  There are currently no pockets, I'm still deciding on the style and placement of pockets.  The edges were not finished with a roll hem, instead I left the edges serged.  This pattern comes in only one size.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight seam

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  Recycled

Pattern:  Tessuti Apron 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, thread clippers, seam ripper, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, Janome serger, threads, iron and ironing board.  

Happy Sewing!

Cotton Sateen Skirt: The Assembly Line S:403 / A-line Midi Skirt

This skirt was made to go with the kAtheRine Tilton top I finished yesterday.  It's the A-line midi skirt from The Assembly Line.  

This is a basic elastic waist pull-on skirt pattern with the most wonderful front pockets.  These are pockets that you can actually use, not dainty little pockets that won't even hold car keys.  Love that.  Also love the raised waistband and wide elastic.  It's one comfortable skirt.  

The pattern comes with variations for the skirt waistband and hem options.  I went with the basic A-line design, but now that I've tried the pattern, I wouldn't mind making the paper bag waistband with the belt loops one day.  

The only changes were to shorten the hem four inches before sewing a one inch hem, I omitted the center front and back seams by cutting on the fold and opted out of top-stitching.   I think this is a wonderful pattern for beginners.  

The fabric has been in the stash for well over a decade, actually it's left-over from this project.  And there is maybe enough for a pair of shorts?  But I digress.  It is a lovely medium weight cotton sateen, one of my favourite fabrics to sew.  It was previously pre-treated and ready for the cutting table.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch, 3/8" seam allowances

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  

Elastic:  1 metre

Pattern:  The Assembly Line (TAL) S:403

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, paper scissors, tailor's chalk, pins, pin cushion, thread clippers, cotton thread, polyester serger thread, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, blind hem foot, screwdriver, Janome serger, safety pins, iron, ironing board and coffee.  

Happy sewing.  

Cotton Butterfly Shirt: OOP Butterick 5891

With the arrival of the official first day of summer, out-of-print (OOP) Butterick 5891 makes another appearance.  

This kAtheRine Tilton design is a favourite summer-time top pattern.  It has long sleeves to protect from those nasty mosquito bites--they're fierce this year.  And pockets!  Ah, gotta love a garment with pockets.  

There was one small change made to this version.  The center back was cut on the fold and fanned out two inches at the bottom hemline to provide more ease in the back.  

The fabric inspired this project.  When I stumbled across it in the quilting cottons, I was smitten with the print.  It was listed as a craft cotton but this 100% cotton fabric worked out just fine for garment sewing.  Although I wouldn't use it if you're sewing something that needs the fabric to drape.  The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the wash cycle and dryer before hitting the ironing board for a steam pressing.  

Project details

Seams:  2.8--3.0 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3 metres

Buttons:  4--1" recycled buttons

Sewing label:  1--"I sewed this!" label

Pattern:  OOP Butterick 5891

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, fabric scissors, pins, pin cushions, measuring tapes, measuring gauge, tailor's chalk, cotton thread, silk thread, hand sewing needle, thread clippers, tailor's wax, Janome sewing machine, Janome serger, iron, ironing board, screwdriver, buttonhole foot, walking foot and tea.  

Happy Sewing! 

Cotton Caftan or Summer-time Pajamas: McCall's 8516

The latest project off the sewing machine is McCall's 8516, a cotton caftan.  

I'm not sure how I feel about it or how much I'll wear it.  It's huge.  Even the opening for the arms is deep.  I will certainly have to wear a camisole underneath if I were going out in public.  This is more of a beachwear cover-up rather than a tunic / dress garment.    

This was sewn in a size medium.  There weren't any finished measurements on the pattern pieces.  

Yup, that's approximately sixty-two inches around the waistline.  Sure, I was looking for something loose-fitting that I could wear over the scoliosis brace but this still shows the top of the back of the brace sticking out from my actual back.  Sigh.  If I were a summer-time outdoors / beach person I might get more use from this garment.  But I'm not.  I'm counting down the days until the first frost and snowfall.  Which makes one wonder why would I even sew a caftan?  Hmmm, perhaps this could be my summer-time pajamas.   

It was an easy sewing project.  I didn't make too many changes to the pattern, only shortening the length (view B) six inches.  And I did sew the buttonholes earlier in the process.  

It's a great pattern for colour-blocking or working with different prints.  You can have a lot of fun with fabric choices.  The fabric used here was a light-weight embroidered cotton found in the stash.  It was pre-washed and pressed before hitting the cutting table.  

  

Project details

Seams:  2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  3.7 metres 

Interfacing:  2.3 metres

Buttons:  5--1/2 inch 

Sewing label:  1--KATM label

Pattern:  McCall's 8516, circa 2024

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, fabric scissors, paper scissors, thread clippers, tailor's chalk, tailor's wax, hand sewing needle, thimble, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, button hole foot, screwdriver, measuring gauge, seam rippers, Janome serger, threads, cutting board, hammer, buttonhole cutter, iron, ironing board and tea.  

Happy Sewing!

A White Dress Shirt: OOP and Vintage Simplicity 7840

Filling a request for a little boy's long sleeved white dress shirt.  

The Pattern

This vintage pattern is from 1968, back-in-the-day, when patterns envelopes were stuffed with pattern pieces for a whole outfit, not just one simple garment.  Shrinkflation is real and it has hit the pattern drawers as well as the grocery aisles.  But I digress.  Out-of-print (OOP) Simplicity 7840 comes with patterns for long and short sleeve shirts, a lined front zippered jacket and pants.  The sewing instructions are rich in details including a "dictionary" of sewing terms and guidance.  Ah, the golden age of sewing patterns.  There is something special about sewing a vintage pattern now-a-days.  

OOP Simplicity 7840 is a keeper, although, I don't know if I will have another chance to sew another shirt in this size.  This project was sewn in a size ten.  Currently, I do believe it will be a wee bit bigger than needed but with kids' clothing, they are sure to grown into it in no time.  It is a well-drafted pattern.  

There weren't many changes to the pattern.  The front pocket is a little small and after stitching it and pressing I decided to leave it off.  I would have preferred a pointed bottom instead of the curved edges but not so much that I was willing to recut another chest pocket.  My preference is for a buttoned placket for the sleeve but I did stick with the finished sleeve opening suggested on the pattern.  The shirt is not for me, so why change things and create more work if I don't have to?  I did, however, change the method for sewing the shirt yoke.  For this, I referred to page 402 in the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing and sewed the yoke using "the couture method."  That's what they called it back in nineteen seventy-six.  Today, "the couture method" is often referred to as the burrito method.  Since, we're talking about a vintage pattern, why not stick with the vintage terminology.  

The Fabric and Notions

I was lucky enough to find some white cotton fabric suitable for a dress shirt in the stash.  The fabric is leftover from a previous project and the 1.7 metres were the perfect amount required for this project.  It was pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer before arriving on the ironing board for a steam press.  

The shirt was interfaced with a fusible interfacing and instead of placing the interfacing on the shirt front, it was inserted on the facing piece.  This is the second vintage pattern recently used that suggests placing the interfacing on the front rather than the facing.  The other pattern was re-released DVF wrap dress pattern, Vogue 2000.  

The recycled buttons were found in the stash.   The cotton thread, thankfully, was also from the stash.  It was leftover from microwave cozy sewing days.  Actually everything needed to complete this project was found or borrowed.  The pattern was borrowed for this project.  

Project details

Seams:  2.2 -- 2.8 straight stitch

Seam finish:  Serged

Fabric:  1.7 metres

Interfacing:  1 metre

Buttons:  seven -- half inch and two -- three-quarter inch recycled plastic buttons

Pattern:  vintage and OOP Simplicity 7840

Additional Tools and Supplies:  cutting table, measuring tape, pins, pin cushion, tailor's chalk, ruler, measuring gauge, paper scissors, fabric scissors, Janome sewing machine, walking foot, buttonhole foot, Janome serger, tweezers, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, hand sewing needle, thimble, tailor's wax, good tunes (2 Cellos) and tea.  

Happy Sewing!