Kwik Sew 4197: Jacket

My weekend sewing plans changed while out at the farmer's market on Saturday and quickly noticing that I didn't dress nearly warm enough while out in the open space. It was cold. Could see your breath cold. It was the nudge that I needed to get to work on this project.  

This jacket is made with Kwik Sew 4197, a 2016 release. The pattern is well-drafted and it was an easy sew. Easy but messy. But that is another paragraph.

It has been awhile since I've sewn with a Kwik Sew pattern and the first thing I noticed is that they have move from the hard stock paper to tissue pattern printed patterns. I felt nostalgically sad when I opened the pattern and discovered this but I guess the hint of it should have been the different envelope and lighter weight. I got over it quickly when the initial sadness turned to appreciation during the cutting process.

Tissue paper was just fine when it came to cutting out this fabric and it's pile. The pattern instructions for the most part are excellent. I did get over the disappointment that there were no finished garment measurements anywhere to be found despite finding this on the instructions sheet, "[c]ompare the measurement of the finished garment, printed on the pattern piece to your body measurements." I'm just complaining over nothing, it was easy to measure the pattern pieces and do some simple math. I guess I just wanted to hurry and get this project done.

There was time spent marking the seam allowance in order to overlap the pattern pieces and topstitch.

The excess on the underside had to be trimmed.

Folding the excess over, it was clipped close to the edge.  

My favourite feature of this jacket are the overlapped and top-stitched seams.  

I stumbled across this fabric over the summer and couldn't resist the 70% off sticker. It's not a natural fabric that I'm trying to sew more of, but it appears to be a fabric that I'm hoping will keep me warm on these cold autumns days. I was a little worried about how to sew it. I read recommendations to use a teflon foot, instead I used the roller foot that I had on hand. It worked out great. I used a denim needle as suggested and a heavier weight thread. I chose a longer stitch length and pinned the pieces with silk pins that did not leave any marks.    

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres faux shearling 

Needle:  1 - Jeans 100/16

Pattern:  Kwik Sew 4197

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, thread clippers, scissors, measuring tape, measuring gauge, silk pins, tailor's chalk, sewing machine, roller foot, walking foot, serger, threads, vacuum, mini sewing machine vacuum, lint brushes, and lint roller.   

Happy Sewing!  

Making Something With the Scraps

There was just under half a metre of that lovely waffle weave cotton fabric and well, I decided to make something with some left-over pieces. 

There was enough to squeak out two kitchen towels. 

The trim has been in my notion stash for a long time. It's the same trim used on this robe. One of the towels has two rows of ribbon just so I could use up the rest of it. Feels good to finally stash bust this trim. And it feels good to make something useful with the fabric scraps.     

The Stats:

Fabric:  0.4 metres 

Trim:  2.1 metres 

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, scissors, sewing machine, thread clippers, jean-a-ma-jig, serger, tweezers, threads, iron, ironing board, and a cup of tea.  

Happy Sewing!  

Sleepwear: Butterick 5667

Sleepwear has been on my want-to-sew list for quite some time and tonight I finally got around to trying out one of sleepwear patterns in my stash.  

Butterick 5667 is a super easy pattern pattern for a top, gown and elastic waist pants. It's a perfect pattern for a beginner and quite affordable. I was able to press my fabric, cut it out and sew this project this evening. I glance over the pattern instruction sheet and noticed that it calls for set in sleeves and then decided to do my own thing. They're just suggestions right? 

Instead of setting in the sleeve, I flat pinned and sewed the armhole before finishing the side seams.  I didn't use the self-neck binding method from the pattern since I had some blue seam binding left over from this project and just used up the last of the seam binding instead. I was worried that it would be a bit snug around the hip area so I sewed the side seams with a 3/8" allowance. Maybe I should have made a large instead of a medium? Something to keep in mind if I make another one. That and maybe narrow that neckline. Although, I'm not convinced that I want to make another one.    

It's nothing fancy but I'm hoping that it will be cozy. The fabric is the last of the waffle weave cotton that I used to make Mama R's robe. I'm surprised that I was able to squeak out the gown since I was a bit short on the recommended yardage. Maybe it was because I didn't cut out the neck binding? The fabric made it's way into my stash after I found it in the bargain centre. It has a fading line down the centre of it's length where it was folded on the bolt. I was able to avoid the evidence of fading at the centre front and back by creating a new fold. On the back there is evidence of the line of fading on the lower right side. No big deal since it's just to sleep in. The fabric was previously pre-treated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer. 

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.4 metres waffle weave cotton

Seam binding:  1 metre

Pattern:  Butterick 5667

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, tailor's chalk, scissors, sewing machine, serger, threads, thread clippers, iron, ironing board, and chocolates.  

Happy Sewing!  

Rachel Comey Top: Vogue 1503

Vogue 1503 has been in my pattern stash ever since it was released last year. I've been meaning to make it right away but then I waited until April to cut it out.

I hand stitched the non-fusible interfacing on the pattern pieces that call for interfacing but then it became an UFO for six months while my sewing mojo just couldn't get into it. I couldn't at the time handle sitting and sitting through the french seams turned me off of this project for some time. And then other projects pushed their way ahead of this one. Add to that my sewing mojo took a hit.

After the recent flurry of sewing projects, I was ready to tackle this project at a much appreciated slow pace. I enjoyed the process, the clean finish of those french seams, and those pockets are delightful. So, finally after six months and eleven days of sewing, it's done!

This pattern, Vogue 1503, is absolutely beautiful. Rachel Comey designs some of the best patterns that incorporates functionable and stylish pockets. I'm thinking back to that much-loved skirt pattern with pockets, out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 1247. This one is another. There are three bodice front pockets. Love it! These are not dainty pockets that are pretty to look at and that's it, they're pretty and functionable pockets.

I found this lightweight cream coloured 100% wool at the clearance section at Fabricland that I thought would be a perfect fit with this pattern. I'm on a natural fibre kick lately so this works well with that focus. The non-fusible interfacing is also a natural fibre. The fabric was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer followed by a pressing prior to cutting. The fabric handled all of these pre-treatment processes without any issues.  

The button front top pattern is perfect. Okay, almost perfect for my petite frame. I did have to shorten the sleeve and hem length along with straightening the hemline. The only other change that I made was to the button placement on the front band. But in my eyes it's perfect.

The Stats:  

Fabric:  2.2 metres 100% lightweight wool

Interfacing:  1.3 metres non-fusible interfacing

Buttons:  Twelve - 1/2" buttons (I put an extra one in the front)

Pattern:  Vogue 1503

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Cutting table, pins, pin cushions, scissors, thread clippers, rulers, measuring tape, sewing machine, serger, buttonhole foot, tailor's ham, sleeve ham, iron, ironing board, thread, hand needle, tailor's wax, tailor's chalk, tailor's mitt, good tunes, lots of breaks for stretching and doing physio exercises.

Happy Sewing!

In Sewing News Today...

I forgot how happy french seams make me. Giddy happy. I'm currently working on Vogue 1503 which has french seams and a pieced front. It's a fun project. Although, I'm scratching my head as to why Rachel Comey would suggest encasing the armhole seam with double fold bias tape after all the labour intensive work of french seams.  

The french seams are beautiful. I want more french seams. Lynn Mizono's Vogue 1274 has french seams even where the sleeve is inserted into the armhole. I'm going to go with Lynn Mizono's suggestion on how to finish the armhole. Why add more bulk with seam binding?  

In other news that has me scratching my head, new fall fabrics found at the local fabric/quilt/home decor/and knick-knack store. Lots of polyester and man-made fibres. I'll be honest, it's not my favourite. Goodness, do I miss the gorgeous wools and organic cottons that used to be found at Mitchell Fabrics. But I digress. What really shocked me was the price increases found this season. New stock of sequin polyester taffeta priced at $70/metre. Even with the 50% membership sale discount that's an ouch price for polyester. Yeah, polyester. Similar to this. Apparently, the price of sequins are behind the price increase. [insert a chuckle and eye roll here]. I'm thinking back to something I read in Overdressed:  The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth L. Cline. Cline exposed how manufacturers use decorative features like sequins to make a synthetic fibre appear as a good or luxury item. I guess it is where we place value and sometimes, as Cline points out, we're blinded by the bling.   

Oh and speaking of value, there is an on-line all-brand sale happening at MBV until tomorrow. 

Well, that's all in sewing news today.  

Happy Sewing!  

In Sewing News Today...

I'm feeling under the weather and trying to push through some sewing projects that I need done by the weekend. It's been a rough day of nose blowing, back soreness, and a burn to my arm when I knocked over the iron. Sometimes I don't know when to call it quits. Luckily, I was distracted by the email alert that the new Vogue pattern release came out this evening.  

I have to admit there are more than a few designs that I admire. Although I'm surprised that there weren't any pantsuits in the holiday collection. Anyway, here are some of my favourite looks.   

Now, the last thing I need is another dress pattern but I do like the waistline detail on Vogue 1566. A jigsaw puzzle dress.   

Vogue 1567 is my favourite pattern of this collection. It might be safe to say that Paco Peralta is one of my favourite Vogue designers.   

Vogue 1570 might make it into my pattern collection if I were twenty pounds lighter and five inches taller. It's the wrap front on the pants that really caught my attention.

Vogue 1572 caught my eye about a week ago when Carlos was online tempting everyone with the new collection. A square neckline, peplum and wide leg pants, some of my favourite details.   

 

Did I mention how thrilled I am to see wide leg pants that sit at the natural to high waistline? And I like that these Vogue 9282 pants have a the back zipper and button front details.  

  

A couple of Marcy Tilton designs caught my eye, Vogue 9283 a skirt pattern that reminds me of OOP Vogue 8637.  

Vogue 9287 is a loose-fitting jacket that looks awfully comfortable.   

Oh and this accessories pattern, Vogue 9291, by Kathryn Brenne! If only it came out in the previous release, it would have been perfect for this weekend's outing. 

There is one more pattern that has caught my eye recently, it's Simplicity 8529. It's currently on back order and on the top of my wish list along with Vogue 1567.  

How about you? Are there any holiday patterns that have caught your attention?  

Happy Sewing!  

Happy Thanksgiving!

To all of the Canadian sewing people out there who are celebrating this weekend, Happy Thanksgiving! I hope that you're having a wonderful celebration.    

And wishing you a bit of sewing time as well.

Wool Jacket: OOP Vogue 8916

Wool jacket is such an insufficient description. I wish you could stroke it and feel how beautifully soft it feels, inside and out. The softest wool on the outside lined with silk. I'm so pleased with how it turned out. And my fingers are crossed that Mom feels the same way as this one is for her.  

It's made with out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8916, a pattern I've made before, so Mama R knew exactly what she wants in a new jacket. First, it had to be a black jacket. Check. Then she asked for an extra inch in the length of the sleeves. And that was an easy on to check off as well.    

The challenge came in my fabric choice. The wool was fantastic to work with, it was the silk I chose to line the jacket with that presented a new experience and a few challenges. I used Microtex needles and I have to say they were worth every penny. The challenge regarding these needles came to threading them. The hole was too small for the automatic threader to push the thread through. I've been spoiled and it took some time to finally thread the needle. I used silk thread and silk pins to sew the lining pieces after hand basting.

Another challenge came in how to cut out the pattern pieces and I used the sandwich between layers of tissue paper method which worked out great. The fabric was prone to fraying and I did spend quite a bit of time hand-stitching the inside of the jacket and pocket edges. I think it was time well spent even if the inside won't be seen.

The inside is underlined with organza and the front piece was interfaced with fusible horsehair interfacing. The fabrics were pretreated for shrinkage. The wool was pre-treated with the damp towel and dryer method and then steam pressed. The silk was pretreated with a tumble through the washing machine and dryer on the delicate cycles and then steam pressed under an organza pressing cloth. All handled the pretreatment process without any issues.  

The Stats:  

Fashion Fabric:  1.2 metres 100% wool

Underlining:  1.2 metres organza

Fusible Horsehair:  0.5 metres

Lining:  1.1 metres 100% silk

Pattern:  OOP Vogue 8916

Needles:  2 - Microtex sewing machine needles 

Additional Tools and Supplies:  Sewing machine, serger, walking foot, cutting table, scissors,  thread clippers, silk pins, measuring tape, rulers, tailor's chalk, iron, ironing board, pressing block / clapper, sleeve ham, tailor's ham, pressing mitt, threads, hand needles and coffee.

Happy Sewing!