Thursday, 25 May 2017

OOP Vogue 8887: Cuffed Trousers

This is my test garment of out-of-print (OOP) Vogue 8887. There is so much that I like about this pattern. First off, the fabric is cut on the bias and wow! I've already sang the praises of bias cut garments here so I'll spare you from any more on this post.

The ribbon finished waist is the cat's meow. And I have a pair of cuffed pants! I've always dreamed of cuffed pants. So, the question remains, do I now feel like a 1940s trouser-wearing movie starlet?  

Almost.  

Well, if I have a big white shirt to cover my mid-section and the pulling at the lower pocket edge then yeah, maybe. It's all about creating an illusion, right? That's right, I have not perfected the fit just yet. I can get away wearing it if carefully paired with a strategic garment but I am sure I can improve the fit.

Modelling Vogue 8887 with a puffed up allergy face. 

I like the ribbon waist and that is a feature I will keep. The waist size I might go up, it fits snuggly, I would just like a little more ease in this area. I need to figure out what I want to do about the pockets since they are not helping with my full hips and thighs. The vertical pockets on the front side gap open. I'm thinking about eliminating them. But then I have similar pockets on my OOP Vogue 1325 trousers and they don't gap like these do, hmmm. More ease will be given in this area as well. To go along with my full hips and thighs, I also have a tummy. Yeah, now you have an idea why pants are a challenge. This means that low-rise pants are a no-no and even though OOP Vogue 8887 are not low-rise the front waist sits 1/2" below the waistline. I wasn't going to have any of that so I raised it 1/2" and it's perfect. I really like all the darts, there are four in the back and two in the front. They are a keeper. The crotch length is cut as a size 14 and the inner thigh is cut at the largest size. The side seam is cut as a size 16, maybe a 1/2 size more might give me the perfect amount of ease. And the finally, the cuffs. Don't get me wrong, I love a cuffed leg despite reading that wide legged cuffs are to be avoided for petites but the length, look at the length compared to the pattern photograph.


The trousers on the Vogue model seem to fall closer to ankle length, on me they look capri length. The pattern piece wasn't shortened so next time I'm going to lengthen the legs. Since these are small cuffs I don't think they make me look shorter and I wouldn't mind making it a full length leg. I did however have to shorten the right leg length by 1/2" to make the hems appear even. It is a consistent adjustment I have to make with trousers.  

So, I'm well on my way to making the trousers I want. Until then, it's back to the drawing board to make some changes to the pattern.  



The Stats:  

Fabric:  2 metres 100% wool suiting and 0.3 metres of lining fabric

Zipper:  8" invisible zipper

Basting Tape:  16" two-faced basting tape

Ribbon:  1.1 metres of 1 1/4" grosgrain ribbon

Additional Tools & Supplies:  Grid board, cutting table, pins, scissors, sewing reference books, sewing machine, serger, tracing paper, markers, pencils, threads for the sewing machine and serger, silk thread for hand stitching, tweezers, seam ripper, tailor's ham, pressing mitt, iron, ironing board, walking foot, invisible zipper foot, regular zipper foot, hanger, many breaks, chai lattes and some good tunes.

Happy Sewing!



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